Breaker tripping prevent full days charge

SirEbrawl · Jun 25, 2024

I'm confused what is the reason that my breaker between ChargeController and Batteries keeps tripping.

Setup
6x 200W BougeRV solar panels, wired 3s2p w/ 15A fuses on each string
||
30A breaker (M1A2)
||
Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT Tr VE. Can Solar Charge Controller 150V, 100A
|+
120A breaker (M1A2)
|+
busbar (+positive) -> AirConditioning+ and -> return to BMV-712 sensor
||||+
4x 200Ah TCB Worth 12V batteries (equal wires/parallel)
||||-
busbar (-negative) -> AirConditioning- and -> groundVehicleFrame
|-
BMV-712 Battery monitor shunt
|-
Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT Tr VE. Can Solar Charge Controller 150V, 100A

Here's a paper diagram and actual photo.

Here's some data from the CC and BMV when tripping the 120A breaker.

and this is when I reset the breaker.

Brucey · Jun 25, 2024

Do the graph with amps instead of volts with the drop down.

42OhmsPA · Jun 25, 2024

Brucey said:
Do the graph with amps instead of volts with the drop down.

And the specs for the panels.

I suspect you're pushing the breaker close to the limit, its heating up and tripping.
I like Midnite / Carling Tech breakers.

Brucey · Jun 25, 2024

Yes those m1a2 breakers are trash.

740GLE · Jun 25, 2024

Why is the shunt showing 10v yet the SCC is showing 14v in the first pic?

Can’t you set up VE.smart network?

timselectric · Jun 25, 2024

Yup
Garbage breaker.

SirEbrawl · Jun 25, 2024

Brucey said:
Do the graph with amps instead of volts with the drop down.

Here's the CC w/ Battery Amperage, Load Amperage is grayed out. And here's the BMV w/ Current Amperage.

SirEbrawl · Jun 25, 2024

42OhmsPA said:
And the specs for the panels.

I suspect you're pushing the breaker close to the limit, its heating up and tripping.
I like Midnite / Carling Tech breakers.

specs for panels. the Array was reading 57V

SirEbrawl · Jun 25, 2024

740GLE said:
Why is the shunt showing 10v yet the SCC is showing 14v in the first pic?

Can’t you set up VE.smart network?

That's part of my confusion. They rarely match up. When solar is being delivered they get close. However What the shunt shows is the true battery voltage as I've confirmed each with a multimeter.

SirEbrawl · Jun 25, 2024

timselectric said:
Yup
Garbage breaker.

Is there a way to test the true breaker "capacity" (not sure the correct term) w/ a multimeter?

outboard1196 · Jun 25, 2024

SirEbrawl said:
Is there a way to test the true breaker "capacity" (not sure the correct term) w/ a multimeter?

You would need a variable load and a current meter . but I would trust the smart shunt over the breaker , get a quality breaker . waytek wire has nice breakers at decent prices .

42OhmsPA · Jun 25, 2024

Charts sure do make it look like the breaker is undersized / junk
Voltage differences could be a sign of a loose or poor connection.

timselectric · Jun 25, 2024

Mattb4 · Jun 25, 2024

Could be the breaker quality but make sure your wire lugs and connection to it are solid. Do a voltage drop test across the breaker.

SirEbrawl · Jun 25, 2024

why does the Voltage spike up right as the breaker trips? Does this point to anything else it could be?

mikefitz · Jun 26, 2024

SirEbrawl said:
Voltage spike up right as the breaker trips?

Energy being delivered by the controller has nowhere to go. Controller cannot respond fast enough.

Shunt in not connected corectly as a battery monitor.

Connect the shunt correctly and replace the crap breakers with fuses or Bluesea/Bussmann breakers.

Add a MRBF 250 amp fuse in a Blue Sea fuse holder on each battery positive.

740GLE · Jun 26, 2024

SirEbrawl said:
That's part of my confusion. They rarely match up. When solar is being delivered they get close. However What the shunt shows is the true battery voltage as I've confirmed each with a multimeter.

Did you link the shunt to the SCC in a VE.smart network?

In the SCC dial back the charge current to half of what you’re seeing? Say 20a? The. See if you have a trip. If not, then bump it to 25a.

While you have say 20a flowing to the battery, measure voltage across the breaker terminals, ideally you’ll have nothing but I’m guessing you’ll see .5-1v.

SirEbrawl · Jun 26, 2024

mikefitz said:
Energy being delivered by the controller has nowhere to go. Controller cannot respond fast enough.

Shunt in not connected corectly as a battery monitor.
View attachment 224702

Connect the shunt correctly and replace the crap breakers with fuses or Bluesea/Bussmann breakers.

Add a MRBF 250 amp fuse in a Blue Sea fuse holder on each battery positive.

Ok about the Voltage spike.

Shunt Placement: I have 4x batteries in parallel, so shouldn't the +line from shunt connect in a spot that all 4 batteries are monitored? This is why I have it connected to my +Busbar. Do I need to get second set of Busbars. One set for paralleling the batteries, second set for Loads with a shut off switch in-between so I can completely isolate my batteries?

Everyone saying M1A4 is crap... I trust y'all.

MRBF 250A fuse for +battery terminals: ChatGPT explains as "By placing a fuse on each battery positive terminal, you are ensuring that each battery has its own overcurrent protection." But the 250A sizing seems high in my (in)experience. Just want to double check you realized that ALL my wires are 2AWG except between SCC and solar array which are 10AWG?

SirEbrawl · Jun 26, 2024

Mattb4 said:
Could be the breaker quality but make sure your wire lugs and connection to it are solid. Do a voltage drop test across the breaker.

Close-up of tripping breakers connections. zero play, copper washers as well.

Suijkerbuijk · Jun 26, 2024

SirEbrawl said:
Close-up of tripping breakers connections. zero play, copper washers as well.View attachment 224742

Not good .
Look again and you see that hole of your cable is bigger than the bolt u use to connect it to
So one side will be heat up.

So always use the same bolt and cable lug on the cable
And that is not this case .
Reason it flips of is the heat from the lugs.

Brucey · Jun 26, 2024

Well heres one problem. Those lugs are way oversized for those bolts.

SirEbrawl · Jun 26, 2024

740GLE said:
Did you link the shunt to the SCC in a VE.smart network?

In the SCC dial back the charge current to half of what you’re seeing? Say 20a? The. See if you have a trip. If not, then bump it to 25a.

While you have say 20a flowing to the battery, measure voltage across the breaker terminals, ideally you’ll have nothing but I’m guessing you’ll see .5-1v.

After VE linking, they Battery Voltages seem in sync.The biggest difference (lag) observed is 0.04V which I assume is 'negligible'?

Is it possible that lack of VE communications could have been causing the breaker trip? I just moved the Van out of shade, but intermittent cloud cover. Will update how it performed later today.

'Dial back the charge current': I want to make sure I'm adjust the correct setting...

Also is 'BatteryLife' the ideal setting?

And are these Battery Voltage Relay settings correct?

SirEbrawl · Jun 26, 2024

Brucey said:
Well heres one problem. Those lugs are way oversized for those bolts.

View attachment 224745

Can I add copper washers that are snug to post and oversized enough to contact lugs, instead of having to redo my wire lug crimps?

Brucey · Jun 26, 2024

SirEbrawl said:
Can I add copper washers that are snug to post and oversized enough to contact lugs, instead of having to redo my wire lug crimps?

No.

Brucey · Jun 26, 2024

Before you redo the lugs, consider some quality breakers in similar form factor, made by Bussman etc. Then you could get them with the bolts you need, looks like 3/8ths on a 1/4"?

Breaker tripping prevent full days charge

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