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Am i buying a decent hybrid and is it legitimate advice needed,

OffGridForGood said:
You should be proud of what you have been able to do on your own, so far, with limited training or experience - for sure.
However we are just concerned that in an effort to 'get it done', corner-cutting could leave you and your property exposed to unnecessary hazards.

The PV panels appear to be well installed assume they are bolted or screwed down to a roof top frame that is also secured to the roof.

The PV wires running into the building in photo #2 as shown DC wire would normally be contained within a metal raceway to a DC disconnect. Both for safety and for control while working on the rest of the system. The breaker you have suspended in the air needs to be inside a suitable junction box. And if the tape above that breaker on the DC cable is a splice, that too needs to be inside a junction box.

We could go on, however since SeaGal has pointed out the code BS7671 perhaps you can start by getting a copy of the standards and begin to go through the requirements.

I am certainly not familiar with UK codes, but I wouldn't want to read about a fire or damage resulting from the set up, after not saying anything.
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Hi thanks, I appreciate the concerns on safety from yourself and seagal, I will be making some boxes to put all the trip switches in soon maybe tomorrow night the shop want more money for boxes than they do the fuse, for instance the isolation switch protective box is 20.00 alone and the single trip switch boxes are 12.00 each, total would be 70.00 and I can make them for nothing from wood . My dad is a lumberjack, so I get my wood for free, chuckles,

I understand about seagals concerns and I'm happy with her concerns.too, 🙂, I like and value people who are very protective about these things,

I'm going to switch to a grid tied in a few months, and have it checked out.

I will be installing armoured cable 4 from the shed to the house to. But as I need 60 meters, I don't have the spare cash at the moment, and I want to source the cable at a better price somewhere, first.

The electrician I'm in touch with has told me he will only pass the job of if i put armoured cable in from the shed, before he will come up and wire a grid tied inverter to the mains, so for now I need advice to make this system more safer until I get all the necessaries in place. Bye for now ❤️
 
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kommando said:
I have a 3 position 100A changeover switch after my 100A DNO fuse, Grid in, Sunny Island in and feed to consumer unit.

Position 1 then the Grid feeds the CU with no Sunny Island connection.

Position 0 no connection to CU

Position 2 Sunny Island feed the CU with no Grid connection.

To get from 1 to 2 or 2 to 1 you must pass through 0 so the grid is never back fed by the Sunny Island.

An example


You size it based the amps of your DNO fuse.
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Have you ever used one of these change over switches, are they any good, I've checked it out and it conforms
to British standards only 18.00 to, as opposed to the other one which is 76.00
www.ukelectricalsupplies.com

FuseBox 125A Changeover Switch and Busbar (SCO125SWB) | UKES

Great deals on FuseBox, including this 125A Changeover Switch and Busbar (SCO125SWB)! Shop now, FREE DELIVERY over £75.
www.ukelectricalsupplies.com www.ukelectricalsupplies.com
 
No mention on the website of what standard it conforms to.

This is what it should conform to.

Changeover devices should conform to BS EN 60947-6-1 and should be based on switch technology (PC Classification) rather than circuit breakers or contactors.

With no discernible position 0 I would not use it.
 
kommando said:
No mention on the website of what standard it conforms to.

This is what it should conform to.

Changeover devices should conform to BS EN 60947-6-1 and should be based on switch technology (PC Classification) rather than circuit breakers or contactors.

With no discernible position 0 I would not use it.
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Hey again 😊. Thanks for the reply, I'm so thankful for your help, now that ive tested everything works, my goal over the next two days is to tidy all my wires up and make it as safe as possible, ive took @SeaGal advice and switched my solar of now untill it's wired up to standard and everything is neat and tidy.

I just wanted to test it first hence why my pictures look untidy.

I posted the wrong link for the switch sorry
Is this one upto British standards, this one is priced 25.00

www.diy.com

Manual Transfer Switch, 125A 240V Changeover Mains to Generator, DIN Rail Mount | DIY at B&Q

125 Amp Changeover Switch, for mounting on a standard DIN Rail, for switching between mains power supply and backup generator supply
www.diy.com
 
Understood about the 0 position 😊 from my research @kommando I've discoverd you can get arcing without a 0 switch,

So I understand your concern, thanks again, my plan was to run from the isolation switch of my mains into this, so I would switch my mains isolation switch of first before switching this one would that be suitable, I guess I could forget, but highly unlikely, I wonder if any one has a spare one here they don't use i would be willing to give them a few pennies for it, 😊 a crossover switch that is with a 0
 
Position 0 works for me, my SI's like a 5 sec delay between disconnection and connection and I can easily achieve this plus no arcing. I only posted one link to one equivalent to my own, sure you can find one cheaper. Mine is German made and came with a Generator and would cost £100's.

Mine is wired off the DNO fuse so is always between the incoming supply and then CU. The position must be fail safe, needing no knowledge as you cannot guarantee being there all the time with the specific knowledge on a sequence to follow. Its job is to protect anyone working on the network so no room for error. So fit it properly or not at all.
 
heather- said:
Oops sorry gal I just noticed seagal as in girl, sorry I was thinking seagal as in the bird.

Thanks for help so far, hopefully we can fly as two birds in a feather, chuckles.

Bye for now hope to see ya soon 😊 lots of love x
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I did exactly the same too :ROFLMAO:
 
kommando said:
Position 0 works for me, my SI's like a 5 sec delay between disconnection and connection and I can easily achieve this plus no arcing. I only posted one link to one equivalent to my own, sure you can find one cheaper. Mine is German made and came with a Generator and would cost £100's.

Mine is wired off the DNO fuse so is always between the incoming supply and then CU. The position must be fail safe, needing no knowledge as you cannot guarantee being there all the time with the specific knowledge on a sequence to follow. Its job is to protect anyone working on the network so no room for error. So fit it properly or not at all.
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Understood ☺️ about fitting it properly or not at all, but DIY only works like that if you know what your doing yourself 🤣

I'm Going for the cheaper option, as the cross over switch is approved to British standards, I will also leave clear instructions on the switches, ie turn isolation switch one off before switching crossover switch.

Thanks for showing me that British standard kite mark for the crossover switch, as you can see the cheeper option does have the same number you gave me.

My solar array isn't even connected at the moment as I'm repositioning the garden shed roof to point directly south, all my solar panels are now back inside my house,

As I said earlier i just connected everything up for now temporarily for one day just to see if everything would work ok for me, as I wanted too test all new equipment within a couple of days just in case I needed a refund ☺️,

So basically upto now my new system as only been connected one day.

So there was no point in fastening all cable down neet and securely when I'm having to change the direction of the roof.

As you see in the picture I'm half way through changing the direction.

Picture two is how my roof was 3 days ago with panels on, picture one is how is how my roof is now.

So what I've been doing is showing you all pictures as ive been setting up, to get advice for when i set up for a second time, As this is what this forum is all about ☺️
 

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kommando said:
Position 0 works for me, my SI's like a 5 sec delay between disconnection and connection and I can easily achieve this plus no arcing. I only posted one link to one equivalent to my own, sure you can find one cheaper. Mine is German made and came with a Generator and would cost £100's.

Mine is wired off the DNO fuse so is always between the incoming supply and then CU. The position must be fail safe, needing no knowledge as you cannot guarantee being there all the time with the specific knowledge on a sequence to follow. Its job is to protect anyone working on the network so no room for error. So fit it properly or not at all.
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I have another question from the picture you can only see one earth terminal on the inverter which is right next to the output positive and neutral, can I connect this up to the main earth rod in my house, many thanks @kommando ☺️
 

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I have another question, what is the best way to clean solar panels, I first washed them with washing up liquid, and water, but this left a residue on, I think I may of used to much fairy liquid, but when it raining it was leaving loads of rain drop marks, afterwards.

I'm going to clean them again shortly, any tips would be appreciated 👍, as I'm only a couple of hours from putting them back up, chuckles ❤️
 
Finally after two days from dusk till 9pm direction of the roof is changed and solar panels are now pointing true south ☺️.

Could anyone tell me roughly what degree would you say the incline is on theese panels Ty ❤️
 

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Oh, im sorry, I was looking at the wrong picture i think.
So you are certainly somewhere in the 18-23 degree range.

I didnt know where south was. Is it to the left of the photo or toward the camera?
 
SeaGal said:
No - it's not that simple. That will not power all your house loads and there would be a number of concerns especially regarding grounding and switch over (as @kommando just highlighted).

I suggest you consult a qualified sparky. That type of installation will require a qualified Part-P electrician.

See my posting here, that covers some of the technical and legislative requirements for the UK...
diysolarforum.com

Octopus Energy will no longer require MCS certification in the UK

https://gtec.co.uk/clause-5-8-octopus-opens-up-the-solar-pv-market-with-a-paragraph/ I'm not sure how exactly the UK's permitting and approval process works but this sounds like a major win for DIY.
diysolarforum.com diysolarforum.com
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Could you explain more about correctly grounding please,
 
heather- said:
Could you explain more about correctly grounding please,
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Absolutely not.

Please read my previous reply.

From what I have read and seen in your postings, IMHO you do not have the necessary qualifications for what you are attempting to do. That is not legal or safe for you, your family or whoever may visit your property.

Yes, this is a DIY solar forum, but for work to be done within the specific requirements of your jurisdiction.

I do not get the impression that you either have the skills to comply with BS7671 or are a Building Regulations Part-P certified engineer.

I am also bound by the terms and rules of this site. By providing you with further information I would be in violation of "You agree to not use the Service to submit or link to any Content which... ...encourages unlawful activity, or otherwise violates any laws."
 
SeaGal said:
Absolutely not.

Please read my previous reply.

From what I have read and seen in your postings, IMHO you do not have the necessary qualifications for what you are attempting to do. That is not legal or safe for you, your family or whoever may visit your property.

Yes, this is a DIY solar forum, but for work to be done within the specific requirements of your jurisdiction.

I do not get the impression that you either have the skills to comply with BS7671 or are a Building Regulations Part-P certified engineer.

I am also bound by the terms and rules of this site. By providing you with further information I would be in violation of "You agree to not use the Service to submit or link to any Content which... ...encourages unlawful activity, or otherwise violates any laws."
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I case you haven't noticed this is a do it your self forum, and since you where the first person to comment on concerns about my system being grounded correctly, why even make such a comment if your unwilling to say how or why.

Also since your unwilling forget I asked
 
Ok so for anyone else willing to be helpful 🙂

My property is on looped supply the main earth rod comes in from next door, to which i have included a picture of my next doors neighbour main earth rod, which is connected to an earth rod on the neutral main supply next door

The second picture is my earth terminal to the bottom left hand corner of the picture, you can see an earth terminal where several earth wires are connected, I did connect 2 new 10 mm earth cable to this myself for my gas and water, ready for my ev charger to be installed next week.

Would I be correct in thinking my system is already bonded correctly from my next door neighbours picture, where the live feed comes in ?.

Would I also be correct in thinking I could just wire and ground my earth up from my inverter to my earth terminal in my house thanks.

Also I've checked my inverter and the earth connection is also connected to the metal case,

So if i run 10 mm earth cable from my shed to my earth terminal in my house my inverter should be grounded and bonded correctly is what I'm thinking.

Also I've just finished earthing all my solar panels together, would I be able to wire them up to my earth terminal, or could I just wack an earth rod into the ground.

Please advice thanks 🙂
 

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ScropusGobbleBottom said:
Oh, im sorry, I was looking at the wrong picture i think.
So you are certainly somewhere in the 18-23 degree range.

I didnt know where south was. Is it to the left of the photo or toward the camera?
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I downloaded an angle map and checked them 😂, there angled at 10.4,

Also the direction my panels are pointing in, I'm now unsure, so I've just been an bought a compass,

If you stood facing the shed door, and imagine the door at 12 o'clock and the opposite side of the shed door as 6 o'clock ie right on line with the shed door but on the other side of the shed. When the compass is pointing north, it would be just slightly left of 6 o'clock, around about 4.30.

It's totally confused me, do you have any ideas what way there facing ☺️
 

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One earth ground only.
since your running other wires to the house from the shed you will have a ground running with those wires.
Do not add another ground rod at the shed, ground everything to the ground wire that comes from the house.
 
OffGridForGood said:
One earth ground only.
since your running other wires to the house from the shed you will have a ground running with those wires.
Do not add another ground rod at the shed, ground everything to the ground wire that comes from the house.
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Thanks off-grid, I appreciate that, I'll get it done tomorrow 😎

Even the solar panels to
 
The aluminum FRAMES of the solar panels need to be bonded (electrically connected) to the grounding system. If the supports the PV panels are sitting on are metal, then this metal framing also needs to be bonded (connected) to the grounding system.
 
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