Hi thanks
Am i buying a decent hybrid and is it legitimate advice needed,
- Thread starter heather-
- Start date
65% of it is battery, all LFP now. I have cheap used solar panels and I also had some gear before I went off grid.
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
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PV input 125V to 500V
MPPT 150V to 425V
PV input current 13A per MPPT
Max PV short-circuit current 17A per MPPT
You've already connected your panels almost the best you could.
41.7V x 2 + 31.37V x 2 = 146V
That string doesn't quite reach minimum MPPT under STC conditions. Expect it to deliver less power than 146V x 9.94A
The other string 41.7V x 4 = 166.8V is above 150V by 11%, should work up to moderately hot. Assuming no shading.
How about considering 6s Trina + 2s Longi in one string? Expect 313V x 9.94A under nominal conditions. Note that even approaches the nominal 370V input rating.
Better would be one ~370Vmp string of Trina, another ~370Vmp string of Longi
Your system at the moment is near to below minimum MPPT voltage, especially with heat and shading.
So expected to underperform.
MPPT 150V to 425V
PV input current 13A per MPPT
Max PV short-circuit current 17A per MPPT
You've already connected your panels almost the best you could.
41.7V x 2 + 31.37V x 2 = 146V
That string doesn't quite reach minimum MPPT under STC conditions. Expect it to deliver less power than 146V x 9.94A
The other string 41.7V x 4 = 166.8V is above 150V by 11%, should work up to moderately hot. Assuming no shading.
How about considering 6s Trina + 2s Longi in one string? Expect 313V x 9.94A under nominal conditions. Note that even approaches the nominal 370V input rating.
Better would be one ~370Vmp string of Trina, another ~370Vmp string of Longi
Your system at the moment is near to below minimum MPPT voltage, especially with heat and shading.
So expected to underperform.
Night time here sun setting, 
@Hedges
This is the reading with both strings getting full sun shine 8.10 pm, M1 is mppt charge controller 1 with 4 trina panel in series
M2 is mppt charge controller 2 with two trina and 2 longi in series both separate strings
@HedgesThis is the reading with both strings getting full sun shine 8.10 pm, M1 is mppt charge controller 1 with 4 trina panel in series
M2 is mppt charge controller 2 with two trina and 2 longi in series both separate strings
Attachments
I had them connected on one string in series already but for some reason I was getting 330 volt @ 13 amps at peak solar, I was concerned 13 amps was touching border line limit for the inverter,
How long will it be before you see a return x
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 21,837
Making 13A available to the inverter is fine.
17A would be borderline.
I'm surprised you got 13A at Vmp, since that is 13% higher than Trina should be able to deliver.
13A available from Longi, but only up to 2s Longi voltage.
How did wattage compare in that configuration, compared to now?
Did it actually pull 330V x 13A = 4290W from PV? That's near 4680W max PV input power.
Just connected to a single MPPT input, or two MPPT in parallel?
4290W would be well above the 3330W (STC) rating of your 8 panels. Possible with cloud-edge effects on a cool day, maybe.
I think MPPT did a sweep, reported highest current seen (well below its 125V or 150V spec range), and reported Vmp.
I did get a 13 amp reading at vmp under load, it was 318 v @ 13 amps, the open circuit reading on a multi meter, ie not connected to the inverter was 330v @ 13 amp, forget to mention that sorry, this result under load was on the edecoa inverter I sent back a few days ago. This was from all 8 panels connected in series on one string,
Is it possible the max watt input could be exceeded for the PV input on on the inverter for one string @Hedges on one string.
I'm sure I read each mppt controller has a max watt input of 3600 watts, but can't figure where I saw it,
It may have been a training day on youtube for sunsynk , they have all theese training day videos from sunsynk reps, that do my head in.
Also at different times of the day one string is better than the other as of the moment, because of shading, if i put them all one string will this not effect them all if 8 panels on one string is connected in series because of shading, I read if you get one panel in series that gets hit by shading it effects them all when there all connected in series, unless you put micro inverters in-between them all , which is more added cost, and I don't think it's worth the amount I would gain.
Regarding the suprise why I chose this inverter, I couldn't say no, only payed 450.00 brand new for it , and. there actually 1000 pound brand new.
I looked at the 17 amp max input for one mppt ,.and figured it was 20 percent above 13 amps which is acceptable I believe.
I'm sure I read each mppt controller has a max watt input of 3600 watts, but can't figure where I saw it,
It may have been a training day on youtube for sunsynk , they have all theese training day videos from sunsynk reps, that do my head in.
Also at different times of the day one string is better than the other as of the moment, because of shading, if i put them all one string will this not effect them all if 8 panels on one string is connected in series because of shading, I read if you get one panel in series that gets hit by shading it effects them all when there all connected in series, unless you put micro inverters in-between them all , which is more added cost, and I don't think it's worth the amount I would gain.
Regarding the suprise why I chose this inverter, I couldn't say no, only payed 450.00 brand new for it , and. there actually 1000 pound brand new.
I looked at the 17 amp max input for one mppt ,.and figured it was 20 percent above 13 amps which is acceptable I believe.
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Are you thinking because it's in a cupboard it will get hotter ?. You do know even under full load the inverter fan does not kick in. I believe theese inverters only have one fan, but so far I haven't heard it come on once, it's been quiet all day even when I boiled a kettle and was charging my ev at the same time, which was pulling 3.3 kwh for close to one hour from the panels, it was silent, ie no fan came on.Ooh, that'll keep it nice and warm.
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If you inspect the picture of the panels I've got them all slightly angled inwards towards each other, ie not all level, so that each panels is reflecting sunlight onto the other, could this be why I'm getting such a high wattage when there all connected in one string, or is it because the two longi 13 Amps panels is pushing 13 Amp through all the the 6 x 10 Amp Trina' panels ?, and doing something magical, or could it be combination of both ? It's got me mythed, I was expecting a gain but not that much
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Bananaman321
⚡solar idiot ⚡
Just sitting back here enjoying the show but been getting the feeling somebody's "taking a piss"
I find it hard to believe that someone could be so ignorant to safety, and electrical in general yet somehow construct 2 successfully functioning systems without causing a fire or suffering electrical burns or death.
Plus have yet to see multimeter tools or debris from installation not to question their existence it just seems a little too well prepared.
Sorry my BS meter is pegged on this one
But by all means back to the show
Bananaman321
⚡solar idiot ⚡
I'm gonna apologize for that last comment. I believe we all have the same goal here in mind ours and your safety and to prevent you from making costly mistakes.
I wasn't going to get involved but it's a little late for that so.
I believe we as solar DIYr's need to have a thorough understanding of AC and DC current and domestic electrical.
Also being that we are not licensed insured electrical professionals is all the more reason we should act as such
It's not only for the safety of others and ourselves but also to not draw attention to ourselves.
The last thing we want to happen is for somebody to get injured/death or get caught and possibly fined for doing questionable work and be forced to pay a professional to correct it.
By the time you complete your solar project you should be answering more questions than you are asking
I recommend you buy a book on solar and domestic electrical
I bought this one even with my years of experience in both domestic and utility field
DIY is not an excuse for for cutting corners
This doesn't mean we have to build with new products it just means we have to use the correct ones
And I know it's easy to get excited when we bring life to our project but don't forget to go back and double check everything and always see how you can improve it and make it better and safer.
A few recommendations:
I would move your inverter to a cool dry place out of the weather and sunshine preferably inside your home and away from your service entrance
It should also be mounted on a non combustible surface with adequate ventilation
If you haven't done so already you need to remove The Wire feeding your inverter from the main's connection to the panel.
You could probably get away with just wired and an extension cord with a plug on it and connecting it into a receptacle you could furthermore limit the current by the settings in your inverter the max input on your inverter says 16 amps which probably won't exceed your receptacles breaker anyways. NOT IDEAL BUT OPTION
I only say this because in your current configuration it is being fed from your inverters output and the only reason I could see you using that input would be to charge your battery had you totally depleted it.
The important thing here is having proper overcurrent protection for first your wire and then the equipment.
You need isolation where wires come out of your breaker panel
This can be as simple as a snap in insulator ring You not want to hack this
Breakers need to be in a non combustible enclosure and more importantly those terminal screws need to be covered to prevent electric shock/electrocution.
Download some of the best looking configurations of service entrances you can find then make yours look better
Example and you can do better than this
Remember DIY: Code appliant safety don't draw attention to yourself
Don't give anyone a reason to question your work
I wasn't going to get involved but it's a little late for that so.
I believe we as solar DIYr's need to have a thorough understanding of AC and DC current and domestic electrical.
Also being that we are not licensed insured electrical professionals is all the more reason we should act as such
It's not only for the safety of others and ourselves but also to not draw attention to ourselves.
The last thing we want to happen is for somebody to get injured/death or get caught and possibly fined for doing questionable work and be forced to pay a professional to correct it.
By the time you complete your solar project you should be answering more questions than you are asking
I recommend you buy a book on solar and domestic electrical
I bought this one even with my years of experience in both domestic and utility field
DIY is not an excuse for for cutting corners
This doesn't mean we have to build with new products it just means we have to use the correct ones
And I know it's easy to get excited when we bring life to our project but don't forget to go back and double check everything and always see how you can improve it and make it better and safer.
A few recommendations:
I would move your inverter to a cool dry place out of the weather and sunshine preferably inside your home and away from your service entrance
It should also be mounted on a non combustible surface with adequate ventilation
If you haven't done so already you need to remove The Wire feeding your inverter from the main's connection to the panel.
You could probably get away with just wired and an extension cord with a plug on it and connecting it into a receptacle you could furthermore limit the current by the settings in your inverter the max input on your inverter says 16 amps which probably won't exceed your receptacles breaker anyways. NOT IDEAL BUT OPTION
I only say this because in your current configuration it is being fed from your inverters output and the only reason I could see you using that input would be to charge your battery had you totally depleted it.
The important thing here is having proper overcurrent protection for first your wire and then the equipment.
You need isolation where wires come out of your breaker panel
This can be as simple as a snap in insulator ring You not want to hack this
Breakers need to be in a non combustible enclosure and more importantly those terminal screws need to be covered to prevent electric shock/electrocution.
Download some of the best looking configurations of service entrances you can find then make yours look better
Example and you can do better than this
Remember DIY: Code appliant safety don't draw attention to yourself
Don't give anyone a reason to question your work
Attachments
Im not a complete dinosaur, chuckles
.I've probably climbed more roofs than you've had hot dinners,
I'm now a full time carpenter and lumberjack, I build boats for a living, with my dad,
But for 10 years I worked for TV aerial/ satellite// mobile/ networking/ CCTV commercial company, I also broke the record for installing most amount of antennas on rooftops, for 3 years running, beating 60 installers who where all men, for.3 years running I smashed the lot of them,
And yes I'm all woman to chuckles
Chuckles
Thanks for the popcorn
Just sitting back here enjoying the show but been getting the feeling somebody's "taking a piss"
I find it hard to believe that someone could be so ignorant to safety, and electrical in general yet somehow construct 2 successfully functioning systems without causing a fire or suffering electrical burns or death.
Plus have yet to see multimeter tools or debris from installation not to question their existence it just seems a little too well prepared.
Sorry my BS meter is pegged on this one
But by all means back to the show
ps the wiring situation at first was just temporary, just for testing purposes , you should of noticed I said the edecoa piece of crap inverter had a 60 day return policy But Im not a complete dinosaur, chuckles
.I've probably climbed more roofs than you've had hot dinners, ps
I'm now a full time carpenter and lumberjack, I build boats for a living, with my dad,
But for 10 years I worked for a TV aerial/satellite/ mobile networking/ CCTV commercial company, doing installs on a commercial scale to as well as domestic, I also broke the record for installing the most amount of antennas on rooftops, for 3 years running, beating 60 installers who where all men, for 3 years running I smashed the lot of them,
And yes I'm all woman to chuckles
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Anyhow I hope your still enjoying free electric chucklesChuckles
Sun shine on a rainy day
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To quote Alexander Pope
"A little learning is a dangerous thing;
drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring:
there shallow draughts intoxicate the brain,
and drinking largely sobers us again."
I was a service technician for two decades did my time and moved to rural Thailand in search for freedom, every day is a school day is my leading view on life.
I could have a qualified electrician install my solar but the likelihood of getting a safe install here is 0% hence why I'm going to DIY, it's purely for safety reasons.
I'm not trying to pick on you but from what most of us are seeing your saving money at the risk of your own well-being.
Your install is not safe!!!
You aren't following any safety suggested by manufacturers or other members.
Please please either get an electrician or remove everything and do the research first your experience with CCTV, Comms or any other LV products is worthless with HV AC/DC.
Sincerely Taffy.
"A little learning is a dangerous thing;
drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring:
there shallow draughts intoxicate the brain,
and drinking largely sobers us again."
I was a service technician for two decades did my time and moved to rural Thailand in search for freedom, every day is a school day is my leading view on life.
I could have a qualified electrician install my solar but the likelihood of getting a safe install here is 0% hence why I'm going to DIY, it's purely for safety reasons.
I'm not trying to pick on you but from what most of us are seeing your saving money at the risk of your own well-being.
Your install is not safe!!!
You aren't following any safety suggested by manufacturers or other members.
Please please either get an electrician or remove everything and do the research first your experience with CCTV, Comms or any other LV products is worthless with HV AC/DC.
Sincerely Taffy.
Thanks taffy,
or may I call you boyo, a good old Welsh slang, For my friend @Hedges Hiya and good morning, this is the reading on all panels under full load and drawing a bit of power from the grid as my energy consumption as of the moment is more than what the panels are producing ., time 9.30 am getting full sun, don't forget M2 has two trinal panels rated 10 Amps each and two longi panels rated 13 amps each.
And m1 has 4 X Trina 10 Amp panels
I'll post another reading at solar noon
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Hi this is my setup now,
I'm still not finished I have to add an isolator and a breaker between the inverter and the distribution board,
Just this minute I got the CT coil installed to stop export back to the grid on the third picture, woopeee
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Hi again @Hedges, time is now 11.35 pm, I believe solar noon is 12.45 today so where getting close
Here's another reading under full load.
As you can see the 2 x amp 10 Amp rated Trina panels is now being exceeded, with the two 13 amp longi panels connected to the two Trina panels., on one string M2
M1 as 4 x 10 Amp Trina' panels
Here's another reading under full load.
As you can see the 2 x amp 10 Amp rated Trina panels is now being exceeded, with the two 13 amp longi panels connected to the two Trina panels., on one string M2
M1 as 4 x 10 Amp Trina' panels
Attachments
Bananaman321
⚡solar idiot ⚡
I commissioned my inverter 40 days ago if you don't burn your house down first it's what you got to look forward to
By the way keep staring at that thing you're gonna go blind
By the way keep staring at that thing you're gonna go blind