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Am i buying a decent hybrid and is it legitimate advice needed,

Bananaman321 said:
I commissioned my inverter 40 days ago if you don't burn your house down first it's what you got to look forward to
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By the way keep staring at that thing you're gonna go blind🤣🤪
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My house will not burn down, never ever never, you should wait untill the final pictures of set up, before further putting the jinx on my house, and also you should wait to see an MC certificate from a electrician who is only happy to pass my job of with a certificate once everything is within spec.

But that said if i was to burn my house down, I'll be sure to to cook some jacket potatoes on the red hot ashes 😄 😋.

So when I get my MC certificate which I will, I'll post it here, and then you get some more popcorn 🍿 out.

and if I was you I would stop taking the piss, and chill out ☺️ because I'll let you know, I'm also an ex rifle sniper ✌️☺️😇 which is not a threat, but im one tough nut, Byeeeee have a nice day x
 
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heather- said:
I can't wait until solar solar I have to go out @Hedges but as you can see M2 is now climbing towards 13 amps.
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Or at least Isc of Trina.
At 10.6A (Isc) as shown it wouldn't contribute any voltage and you'd have about 63V from 2s Longi + 2s Trina (not 131V) because Trina would be pulled down to short-circuit (0V) voltage. Unless extra illumination above 1 sun.

I'm guessing the MPPT does a sweep across the voltage range, reports high current seen at low voltage, high voltage seen at low current, and multiplies them. Total wattage is still plausible in this picture, but when you reported (no photo) current in the 13A range together with voltage, it significantly exceeded panel wattage.

Do you have a clamp DC ammeter? You could observe current and voltage at the same time. I'm inclined to think the inverter is reporting Vmp and a current near Isc. Also check battery current (and AC current if loads present, simpler disconnected with battery low enough to accept all the power.) If you were really harvesting that much, that is what would be seen going into battery.
 
Hedges said:
Or at least Isc of Trina.
At 10.6A (Isc) as shown it wouldn't contribute any voltage and you'd have about 63V from 2s Longi + 2s Trina (not 131V) because Trina would be pulled down to short-circuit (0V) voltage. Unless extra illumination above 1 sun.

I'm guessing the MPPT does a sweep across the voltage range, reports high current seen at low voltage, high voltage seen at low current, and multiplies them. Total wattage is still plausible in this picture, but when you reported (no photo) current in the 13A range together with voltage, it significantly exceeded panel wattage.

Do you have a clamp DC ammeter? You could observe current and voltage at the same time. I'm inclined to think the inverter is reporting Vmp and a current near Isc. Also check battery current (and AC current if loads present, simpler disconnected with battery low enough to accept all the power.) If you were really harvesting that much, that is what would be seen going into battery.
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Thanks, no I don't have DC ammeter at the moment, just a basic multi meter,

I may get one. Currently I haven't linked any batteries at moment, untill I've got.to the bottom of it. I'm just running on AC and solar combined, also until I get 48v lithium battery with com communication. ☺️

I'll get some readings at solar noon Soon,.I'm sure it was pushing 13 amps through the two trina 10 amp rated panels.

And as you seen it was doing 10.6 at 1 hour before solar noon on a full load,

I know the voltage dropped with just the two trina attached to the two longi. But when in a full string voltage doesn't drop that much, and 13 amps goes through the lot.
 
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Hi is there any lead acid battery experts here ☺️, DC is all new to me. can anyone assist with the regular standard values to put in here for 2 x 12v 100ah lead acid batteries connected in series to make a 24 volt 100 ah battery here, thanks

I've sourced some standard specs that are most common, but I can't find any detailed info or support anywhere for a numax 12v dc31mf c20 lead acid leisure battery anywhere. 👍
 

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The settings look basically reasonable to me, but you need to check manual for the batteries to find optimum charge and float voltages. My various AGM brands differ.
 
Hedges said:
The settings look basically reasonable to me, but you need to check manual for the batteries to find optimum charge and float voltages. My various AGM brands differ.
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Yep I know agm are very similar in values to wet batteries, it's a bit scary because I can't find a support for the numax, one guy said, send the pics to numax and they should give you the info you need, as he said he would not use typical standard specs as some vary, and it would void his insurance if there was an issue. I've looked at the manual, and there isn't that much info.
 
Maybe similar except no equalization. Having equalization same voltage as boost takes care of that (just some more hours to achieve full charge.)

Chemistry or rather lead alloy of AGM do vary. Charging recommendations for my SunXtender and FullRiver differ. You may be able to spot something in marketing materials like "pure lead" or some alloy, and find technical documents for another brand that is similar. But would like manufacturer's recommendation.

Got a temperature sensor on the batteries?
 
I was looking how to fit the temp sensor before @Hedges the box did come with one ☺️. I'm going to ring the company I bought the batteries of and see if they can assist me with all the values it's no good to to guess theese things, I'm alright with electric mains, but batteries make me really nervous,
 
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Hedges said:
Maybe similar except no equalization. Having equalization same voltage as boost takes care of that (just some more hours to achieve full charge.)

Chemistry or rather lead alloy of AGM do vary. Charging recommendations for my SunXtender and FullRiver differ. You may be able to spot something in marketing materials like "pure lead" or some alloy, and find technical documents for another brand that is similar. But would like manufacturer's recommendation.

Got a temperature sensor on the batteries?
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The info I have so far is. they only have a 10 amp charge rate and another site says 8 Amp.

Discharge rate differs across different sites to, different temp rate settings for the batteries differes across different sites to. With a popular battery like numax I would of thought there would be, a numax support site, but absolutely nothing.
 
Should be just 2 terminals in inverter for temperature sensor, likely polarity doesn't matter.
It is important so charge voltage varies with temperature.
There will be a setting for % or mV per degree.

Charge rate somewhere in range shouldn't be too big a deal. AGM can probably take higher than FLA.
Voltage you want to get correct.
 
heather- said:
These settings you see here are already inputted into the inverter, I haven't touched any values yet or connected any batteries
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I was thinking about the fact you are talking about two 12 volt batteries but your inverter is a 48 volt battery inverter.
 
Hedges said:
Should be just 2 terminals in inverter for temperature sensor, likely polarity doesn't matter.
It is important so charge voltage varies with temperature.
There will be a setting for % or mV per degree.

Charge rate somewhere in range shouldn't be too big a deal. AGM can probably take higher than FLA.
Voltage you want to get correct.
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Hiya good morning 🌞.

Could you provide a picture of the best place to place the battery sensor on a lead acid battery, thanks. Picture of sensor included

Also good news I just got refunded for my edecoa inverter, chuckles 😇 🍿 🍰 😊
 

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I think it just needs to be secured against the case, part way down where the plates are, not just headspace.

In cars, the temperature sensor is in the voltage regulator measuring ambient.
Heavy battery charging causes heat, so sensor on the battery should be better.

That does show red and black wires, so check manual to see if it mentions polarity, or see if terminals are marked on inverter.
But I think it is a "thermistor" which is not polarity sensitive. Some sensor types would be.
 
Hedges said:
I think it just needs to be secured against the case, part way down where the plates are, not just headspace.

In cars, the temperature sensor is in the voltage regulator measuring ambient.
Heavy battery charging causes heat, so sensor on the battery should be better.

That does show red and black wires, so check manual to see if it mentions polarity, or see if terminals are marked on inverter.
But I think it is a "thermistor" which is not polarity sensitive. Some sensor types would be.
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I had a good go at connecting a 48 volt lead acid bank yesterday,

I installed the battery sensor, no problem, also I got all the correct settings for charge rates of the company I bought the batteries from,

I just kept getting alarms on the sunsynk inverter , fault codes appearing like grid change.

I couldn't work it out why, so for now I've disconnected the batteries again.

I'm sure its got something to do with the inverter being connected to the grid, and adding batteries as to why its giving me alarm codes, and it's just a matter of inserting the correct settings through the inbuilt app, but after hours of research I couldn't stop it from giving alarm codes every time I reconnected the batteries.

The batteries where showing up on the display and reading the volts, but the moment I was deactivating no battery to battery connected, alarm codes where appearing like saying grid change , no matter which settings I changed.
 
ThaiTaffy said:
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Hi I read this before asking hedges the best place for the sensor, I really don't trust these manuals completely as so many complaints about them across the nets such as manuals not being updated when firmware updates arise

Also on some parts of the manual for other wiring they don't specify polarity order, dipsticks, also loads of complaints about the earth bonding wiring setup being crap when adding batteries
 
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Anyhow no need to reply all, I'm just going to leave it grid tied with no batteries, just combining AC with solar untill my electrician is MC registered, which is 3 months away. For now I'm just going to use an external battery charger from the a mains 230 plug socket, and hook them batteries into an inverter, which would be completely independent of the sunsynk inverter, just to power my TV and fridge all night, untill I get my electrician to come round and fully pass of my system,


Also I'm just about sick of the shitty comments here, so thanks to the people who have been helpful, but I'll not be coming back to this site because of the shitty comments.
 
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