Ill start by apologizing. I have the attention span of a a gnat.

I am an IT consultant in north alabama. I have a good handle on wiring and electronics.

I was recently paid for a IP camera system with a pallet of Waree 545watt solar panels. I have been wanting to supplement my power with solar for a long time. My power bill is always over 500 and sometimes up to 650. I have everything in my home swapped over to "smart" devices. I have zigbee, zeewave, and wifi smart devices. I have 31 smart switches and my 2 water meters 1" and 2" even have smart devices inline. I just swapped to a new Sensi (Spelling) Thermostat. I have a Reem 5ton power sucker series heat pump that blows snowballs also.

I have a 200 amp service and I have the emporia 16 zone energy monitor on the panel. I had the Sense energy monitor and hated it. Before the Sense monitor I had a TED 1000 and then a 5000 system.

I will include my power usage screenshots from Emporia below.


Getting back to my issue. I do not want to sell any power back to the grid. And I do not want to have a single battery. I simply want to install all the panels on my hillside facing the correct way at the correct angle. I want to take one of the outside disconnect breaker slots (there are 6) and use it to feed everything with as much power as I can produce. When the power is off I want the the inverter to cut off. If I need more than I'm producing I want to pull more from the grid.

A simple hybrid split phase inverter should be all I need correct?
I just want to make 2 panel groups and wire so the voltage is as much as possible without going over 500volt.

Waree bifacial BI-55-545 are the panels and I have 31 of them. And technically I guess I could get another pallet. I just had rather have money for the next invoice.

So in theory I can make almost 17kw with those panels. If I reduced the number of panels down to 14kw or even 10kw what is a good and simple inverter to use to supplement my power during the day time hours.

I would like the ability to possibly add (3 or 4) 5kw battery's to it if possible. Just not this year. I can not see a need to export power to the grid.

Alabama power has a terrible solar purchase agreement.

Thanks in advance. I'll post the pics of my energy monitor data shortly

70% is prob a more realistic output expectation versus ideal panel test conditions. Usually no problem "overpanelling" to allow for better winter utilization, as long as you stay below voltage limits of the mppts. In the summer your simply be maxed out from time to time.

You should be able to do zero-export grid-tie or hybrid/AIO inverter.
Will need utility PTO because it can spuriously export.

Go ahead and over-panel beyond inverter watts rating, just holds up full power at other hours or season. PV strings of multiple orientations is even better.

Some small battery, even just 100 Ah 48V AGM, could let you do backup when the grid is down and carry critical loads through the night.

Correct. I don't think I will even get close to my actual power needs. But that is ok with me. I just want to take a 550 dollar power bill and knock it down to 250. I just need to know what inverters would have me covered with all the things I'll need built into it.

I would even go as far as to pay someone to come to my house and make sure I'm not skipping over something that will cost me later. I'm in Haleyville AL

By the way,,,what I mean by the attention span topic on this thread....... I have read so many post, watched so many videos, and searched so much online that the amount of info I am sorting thru has caused me to become "more dumb". I find myself second guessing everything.

It's funny to some people that a "computer guy" has a farm with sheep and alpacas and has a bulldozer, skid steer, and tractors. I tell people that I use these things to get away from all the data.

I really appreciate having people help me with issues that I come up against.

So any suggestion to particular inverter that might be a all in one solution. Or just a particular feature set that I need to make sure I get?

I keep seeing these small plug in boxes on each panel. What are those devices? Are they some type of individual energy monitoring device? And also one last question. What are the reasons for buying these trransformers that I see listed? If it's something basic that I should already know please don't slap me.

rabtech said:

I keep seeing these small plug in boxes on each panel. What are those devices? Are they some type of individual energy monitoring device? And also one last question. What are the reasons for buying these trransformers that I see listed? If it's something basic that I should already know please don't slap me.

Click to expand...

On current panels? Or just panels in general?

Microinverters or rapid shutdown devices (RSD)/optimizers connect to panels.

For a ground mount, you don’t need RSD. Since you have no desire to sell back to grid, microinverters don’t make sense either. Sol-Ark, EG4 and Megarevo all have 200 Amp pass-through, which is a nice feature. Or you can parallel multiple inverters to give desired grid pass-through.

Panels have junction boxes, some large, some small lumps where each wire connects.

If your panels go on roof of a dwelling, Rapid Shutdown requires that no two wires be > 80V apart.
That is achieved by using microinverters, an inverter for each (or 2, or 4) panel(s). or RSD boxes. Some RSD boxes provide monitoring, some provide (a degree of) "optimizing", matching current between panels of different orientation.

I prefer string inverters, including GT PV or AIO, without optimizers (allowed for ground mount and I think outbuildings, or maybe just "power shed"). But will use them where required by new code.
More careful design required, lower cost, higher efficiency, higher utilization by matching total panel wattage to inverter or over-paneling in the way desired.

Transformers used with inverters are usually auto-transformers to make 120/240V from a 240V only inverter or a 120V only inverter. There are some issues with them, overload, safety, damage to appliances. The scheme must be well thought out and designs. Isolation transformers bypass many of the issues but are typically twice the size and cost, and lower efficiency. Typical ones not designed for inverter use may significantly increase no-load power consumption.

From what I've seen, what you want isn't exactly possible. If you connect to your main panel, you will back feed a little power. The only way to avoid it is to feed a sub panel off your inverter.

I was in a similar position as you. Tired of my $400/m electric bills. I ended up installing a Sol-Ark 15k and some batteries. There's nothing like having a whole home UPS. I'm working to be able to sell power back just to get away with those accidental power spikes I send. I took a $600 power bill in June 23 to $28.10 this June with similar weather conditions. I've got 52 - 340w panels installed, 6 strings paralleled to 3.