diy solar

diy solar

Is this option cost effective for a camper van?

Wtavern

New Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2020
Messages
29
I have a Hymer Aktiv Loft, which has 400 ah of lipo4 batteries under their proprietary Ecotrek system, which are stored in the undercarriage of the van and are unheated. They are charged by the Nations starter 280 amp alternator, which is aided by the Balmer MC-614H controller. No solar.

I’m looking for more power so that I can run AC overnight without a generator, which I estimate will take around 800-1000 ah. Also, I’d like to take the van skiing and need to figure out how to keep the batteries warm enough to keep them from turning off in freezing temperatures. The Ecotrek system is unreliable and the internet is littered with stories of costly failures.

I’m just now getting through all the beginner faq and videos, but I’m considering starting over with my own self built system, which will still use the existing alternator/balmer for charging and the 3000 watt inverter that came with the van. I still have a lot to learn though.

A preliminary thought would be to purchase 5 of the 170 ah Bigbattery Powerblock units and store them inside the climate controlled cabin. They seem like such a great deal that I’m not sure if I would be saving a lot of money building my own battery. Does this seem viable? Also, would it be a simple matter of connecting the batteries in parallel and figuring out how to reprogram the balmer to control the charging? Thanks in advance for your help!
 
I don't see that 170 Ah battery as a very good deal at all. For around $1100 I have 560 Ah of capacity. That includes 8 cells and two BMS devices. 4s2p.
 
I don't see that 170 Ah battery as a very good deal at all. For around $1100 I have 560 Ah of capacity. That includes 8 cells and two BMS devices. 4s2p.
I see that you have the eve cells, which are much cheaper, but per Will’s video comparing all the options, he prefers the fortune cells for mobile use given the stronger terminals. They cost around $115 per 100 ah 3.2 v cell, which would cost around $460 for 100 ah at 12v vs the big battery unit, which would be around $470 per 100 ah with bms and enclosure.
 
Last edited:
I see that you have the eve cells, which are much cheaper, but per Will’s video comparing all the options, he prefers the fortune cells for mobile use given the stronger terminals. They cost around $115 per 100 ah 3.2 v cell, which would cost around $460 for 100 ah at 12v vs the big battery unit, which would be around $470 per 100 ah with bms and enclosure.

I'm not worried about terminal strength. My battery cells are compressed and held firmly in a frame. The 100Ah Fortune cells were my first option until the 280Ah EVE cells were suggested.
 
I'm not worried about terminal strength. My battery cells are compressed and held firmly in a frame. The 100Ah Fortune cells were my first option until the 280Ah EVE cells were suggested.
That makes sense. The 280Ah eve cells are so cheap that I guess I’ll go that way as well. Do you know anything about alternator charging?
 
That makes sense. The 280Ah eve cells are so cheap that I guess I’ll go that way as well. Do you know anything about alternator charging?

Sort of. :) I know enough about it that there are a lot of questions. Enough questions that I simply disconnected my LiFePO4 system from the 7-pin circuit coming from the tow vehicle.

The main question is, "Is it necessary to implement a gatekeeper between the alternator/7-pin circuit and the LiFePO4 batteries."

The gatekeeper would be a DC-DC (or B2B, aka Battery-to-Battery) device. The reasons to add the gatekeeper are:
1. Limit the draw against the tow vehicle/7-pin. There is a lot of discussion around the idea that the LiFePO4 batteries have such low internal resistance that they can suck up a tremendous amount of amps, possibly overwhelming the alternator and causing it to fail.
2. Provide a correct LiFePO4 charge profile. What you get from the alternator doesn't have bulk/absorb and float charging stages.
 
Back
Top