640 Ah milk crate question.

readyme · Mar 5, 2021

Regarding this video:

I am looking to build almost this exact thing...but I want to get it right. I am going to eliminate the 6 USB box, so the power supply can attach directly to the battery (fuse block and negative post).
Since the 10A power supply is reduced to 14.4V, can I change the power supply to the 20A version that supplies up to 24V, and dial it down to 14.4V? Wouldn't this charge at double the wattage without going through the solar charge controller? By my numbers, he is charging from AC to DC at 144 watts (10A and 14.4V) but the other power supply can charge the same 14.4V at 20A for a total charge of 288 watts.

Why is the AC power controller set to 14.4V ?

Or another question, what is the advantage of going through the solar charge controller?

I appreciate any help. I am looking to build a "Bluettie" style battery box to run my 12V fridge in the back of my pickup truck for camping and road trips. I don't currently have solar panels, but I am considering them (there's not a ton of sun here in WA state).

readyme · Mar 6, 2021

readyme said:
Regarding this video:

I am looking to build almost this exact thing...but I want to get it right. I am going to eliminate the 6 USB box, so the power supply can attach directly to the battery (fuse block and negative post).
Since the 10A power supply is reduced to 14.4V, can I change the power supply to the 20A version that supplies up to 24V, and dial it down to 14.4V? Wouldn't this charge at double the wattage without going through the solar charge controller? By my numbers, he is charging from AC to DC at 144 watts (10A and 14.4V) but the other power supply can charge the same 14.4V at 20A for a total charge of 288 watts.

Why is the AC power controller set to 14.4V ?

Or another question, what is the advantage of going through the solar charge controller?

I appreciate any help. I am looking to build a "Bluettie" style battery box to run my 12V fridge in the back of my pickup truck for camping and road trips. I don't currently have solar panels, but I am considering them (there's not a ton of sun here in WA state).

@Will Prowse
Can you help me out with some of the basic info?
I am a beginner and want my first build to be simple and effective.
Thank you

Belugabus · Mar 18, 2021

As a fellow newbie, I can't answer your question from experience, but it seems to be a good way to charge at 20 amps. The problem I see now is that the 20 amp unit has disappeared from Amazon. Also, someone commented that this power supply gave him trouble from overheating, and he has replaced the resistors a few times. I'm thinking of using a PowerMax converter charger, for more money, but to have more peace of mind.
My question is- any reason not to use a 55 or 60 amp unit, for a 0.2C charge?

My understanding is that you set the charger to 14.4 volts to because that level of charge is a good compromise between available power and long battery life.

racerbob · Mar 18, 2021

I am building a similar unit and decided to use the Victron Blue Smart IP67 17A (@12v) dedicated charger. I am putting a switch on the charger's positive lead so that it can be isolated from the circuit while solar charging is active.

This will be a home standby power pack to assist a small portable Propane generator. For night time use when I don't wish to hear the generator running. I live in a hurricane prone area.

I am setting it up to connect directly into a manual transfer switch that covers 4 circuits in the house for lower wattage loads (no A/C) like fans, LED lights and 1 fridge. At the moment, it will get a Samlex PST600-12 that I already had. I have a 2nd identical 100AH battery that I will parallel for longer run time. I will likely get a larger PS Inverter at a later date.

Dewders24 · Mar 26, 2021

I would like to know if it's necessary to program in my factory Ampere Time LiFePo4 battery parameters into the Rich charge controller. There was never a mention of it, but I've read that it's strongly suggested.

racerbob · Mar 26, 2021

Dewders24 said:
I would like to know if it's necessary to program in my factory Ampere Time LiFePo4 battery parameters into the Rich charge controller. There was never a mention of it, but I've read that it's strongly suggested.

Yes it should be set for LiFePo4 battery type. Will has covered this MPPT controller setup in several of his YouTube videos.

640 Ah milk crate question.

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