Lishen 272AH thread?
- Thread starter nebulight
- Start date
Those are Lishen 170ah cells. The specs for the Lishen 170ah and Lishen 272ah cells state to not contact the cells directly or with any other metal. We have found with the EVE 280ah and Lishen 272ah cells it's leakage current. Don't know about the 170ah cells. I started a thread about this here.
Horsefly
Solar Wizard
I've tested with the little Navitas 25Ah cells. Aluminum casing, and when measured with a multimeter it shows a voltage between the case and either pole, and between the case and the poles elsewhere in the string. But if you short the case to either pole or any pole in the pack, there is no current. I believe that means that there is no real risk, but to each his own.
Hopefully everyone does understand that the battery chemistry has aluminum as the positive anode. I would be very surprised if the aluminum case doesn't have a charge. Carrying a substantial amount of current is a different matter.
Horsefly
Solar Wizard
I thought the anode of an LFP cell was graphite, with metal wrap, unless Wikipedia is wrong: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery
Are you saying that the metal connection to the electrode is aluminum?
Cell configuration
- Carbon-coated aluminium current collector 15
Per Wikipedia.
Anode, cathode, yes, perhaps I got them mixed up. Oh well.
You might be on to something here. I had a clip on a 10 amp LA charger lose spring tension due to the spring overheating. The spring was discolored, showing signs of overheating. Apparently the spring was the better path to the opposite side of the clip, and over time softened enough to lose tension. I think that would cause some arcing and could then possibly light something up. The clip had “25 AMPS” stamped on it, so it technically was fine for a 10 amp charger.
michael d
off-grid solar pilgrim
yes, the so-called ratings on spring clamps are not always so good. I installed the bigger charger with lugs on the ends so they are bolted in place. and I bought heavier silicone insulated copper wire and stronger alligator clamps for the 18 amp bench charger. the connection points are often the worse connection in the systems. the amount of actual contact is inadequate. maybe ok for a short time but not for any length of time charging the large 272Ah Lishen cells. better to buy oversized than undersized to keep the heat resistance down on things. these days a lot of things seem to be purposely made to fail so you have to keep buying new stuff.? just my opinion!
I've been using Anderson connectors and 10 gauge wire attached to 1/4 inch ring terminals. You can even have that on every single cell when installed in a battery pack, just in case in the future things get out of balance and you need to charge or discharge an individual cell. The Anderson connectors besides being convenient and easy to use, will only plug in with the correct polarity. They are unfortunately not cheap, so I expect most people won't bother. I am using the 45 amp rated connectors and have no problems pushing 40 amps through them (I also have a 50 amp fuse on each one). At least for a full battery pack, using Anderson connectors to connect a charger is much more convenient and performs much better than alligator clips. They come in sizes rated up to 350 amps, hams have been using them as a standard for hooking up DC power for a while (for good reason).
michael d
off-grid solar pilgrim
yes, I like the Anderson-style plugs. I use them on the bigger lifepo4 charger they are 175amp for the larger charger on the 24-volt packs with larger copper battery cables I think they are 1/0 AWG but would have to go take a peek at those for the actual cable size that I hydraulically crimped into them. never used the smaller Anderson plugs yet but made some heavy 350Amp ones for the winch and the 175Amp ones for the big LIFePO4 charger.
hey>>Hello>> "Just John" you should send me a pm about the Riden 6012 6018's. they act funny at times. but only using them a little with excess solar.
Correct, without sense leads you will have problems getting an accurate measurement on the load tester. I run it at the full 40 amps on a single cell without any problem, but I also leave it set on the 2.5v disconnect. You miss at most 2 amp hours capacity like that, because there is so little capacity under 3 volts.
What are others experience on heating up of the cells near depletion?
When I did a capacity test with a 4S setup, running 2KW/around 180A, the batteries kept cool almost throughout the whole test. Cool meaning, nt real difference to room temperature.
Only in the last Ahs the temperature would raise. That can be expected in the sense that the voltage drops and the current increases. But they were hotter than I would expect for the extra current. Hotter here is up to 50°C (not 100% sure anymore on the value)
Do we know if the battery under heavy load, near depletion have a higher internal resistance? That could explain the higher temperature.
Is there a chemistry reason why they would heat up more near depletion?
When I did a capacity test with a 4S setup, running 2KW/around 180A, the batteries kept cool almost throughout the whole test. Cool meaning, nt real difference to room temperature.
Only in the last Ahs the temperature would raise. That can be expected in the sense that the voltage drops and the current increases. But they were hotter than I would expect for the extra current. Hotter here is up to 50°C (not 100% sure anymore on the value)
Do we know if the battery under heavy load, near depletion have a higher internal resistance? That could explain the higher temperature.
Is there a chemistry reason why they would heat up more near depletion?
Was it the terminals heating up causing the cells to appear to heat up? As I recall Lishen recommends a standard discharge rate of .5C. Also keep in mind the inverter will draw more amps when the voltage goes down. If it's the cells heating up I suspect it has to do more with a chemical reaction than the IR. Maybe someone else with more knowledge than I have will chime in here.
I don't recall if you posted a photo of your cells but did they come with laser welded studs and if so were they 6 or 8mm?
Laser welded studs are fixed studs. There has been discussion concerning the ampacity of laser welded studs vs traditional studs. That's why I asked...
ricksellers
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2021
- Messages
- 13
I am trying to decode my batteries also- they were advertised as EVE however the dimensions don't jive. Also my numbers dont match any of the ones I see here. I want to buy more but I want to know what I am getting. They claim 105 AH I have gotten 102 consistently at .2C.
0B5CBCOM54B27L ABL3001241
this is off one cell I don't have the other numbers as I am at work, I happened to have that one on my phone. I cannot find anything on a internet search. Any ideas?
(Below is the attached image of the items- not actual but virtually
0B5CBCOM54B27L ABL3001241
this is off one cell I don't have the other numbers as I am at work, I happened to have that one on my phone. I cannot find anything on a internet search. Any ideas?
(Below is the attached image of the items- not actual but virtually
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ricksellers
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2021
- Messages
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They seem to work fine- and they match and the cells are not swollen, good voltage etc. I have no issues with them I just want to know who made them as I suspect they aren't EVE.
I can't remember exactly, but the vent window I think indicates ETC as the manufacturer. Eve does make some 105AH cells (I have some grade A ones on order from Amy, they all measure 109AH per Eve's tests).
