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Wire Size

Chretien

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Dec 9, 2021
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I am purchasing 45 Canadian Solar 400w panels for a grid tie ground mount install. The full array will be 200 ft. from my meter with no shade concerns. If I just want to get the system in and connected to the grid, what would be my best option for inverters?

Would it be best to go micro-inverters or charge controllers over that distance? Do I even need either of these with no shade concerns?

Should that panels be in series or parallel to inverters. what is the benefit or disadvantage of each.

And what should be my wire size from array to inverter?
 
I am purchasing 45 Canadian Solar 400w panels for a grid tie ground mount install. The full array will be 200 ft. from my meter with no shade concerns. If I just want to get the system in and connected to the grid, what would be my best option for inverters?
Is this an off-grid setup?
From your mention of distance from the "meter" and inverters plural I suspect it is grid-tied.
Would it be best to go micro-inverters or charge controllers over that distance?
Given this statement I'm not sure which topology you are planning.
Do I even need either of these with no shade concerns?
Yes.
 
No comment on the inverter, but just the wire size is a complicated question with a large amount of power and a long way to transmit.

First, you want to transmit at the max voltage you can manage to reduce current as much as possible. There are two fundamental ways to approach the issue:

1. Transmit with DC. On whatever device is interfacing directly with the solar panels, heavily bias your selection to the max voltage input rating. Then connect as many panels as you can in series without exceeding that rating.
2. Transmit with AC. Put your inverters as close to the panels as possible, then do the long run with AC. At 120 VAC you'd be looking at 150 amps max current, and a 150 amp residential service requires 1ga copper wire. YMMV because residential service is usually shorter than 200 ft.

My guess is a deep dive will show that 2 is the only feasible solution for a variety of reasons, but I'm not going to do the hours of research to nail that down.

Option 2A is to consider a transformer in the middle and bump it up to a higher voltage to save money on wire, then convert it back down at the house. But the labrynth of adding such a device in the middle of a grid tie system is too much for me to even start investigating.

But to answer the question you should have asked: If you're asking these questions, you should absolutely not be building a DIY 18kw grid tie system with 200ft of power transmission system. You don't even know if charge controllers and inverters are related to shade or not, and your mention of the charge controllers leaves doubt of whether you know that they are only applicable to systems with a battery. Sizing wiring is one of the most basic tasks you can complete in solar design. And besides the several major complexities grid tie introduces, if you get it wrong you could kill someone. Hell at this scale - whether or not you grid tie - killing yourself or burning down your house is a very real possibility for 'minor' mistakes like an under torqued nut. It sounds like you've got a good deal on the panels or something and figure "how hard can it be?" Well watch a few Will Prowse videos, listen to how incredibly knowledgeable he is, and then realize that he refuses to post videos about grid tie because he doesn't know enough about it.

Please go build a 500W off grid system. Learn everything you can about it. Spec every component yourself, understand exactly why you are doing it and be prepared to prove you did it to standard. Ask questions on the forum, but to gain understanding not to just find the "right" component. Then add it to the grid, using the same approach. Then scale it up to 2000W or so. At this point you can move it to the remote location and develop your transmission system. Then and only then should you consider scaling up to a massive system like 18kW.
 
AC or DC from panels to inverters at 200 feet?
AC vs DC and voltage are both considerations.
The higher the voltage the less voltage drop as a percentage of voltage.
Also the amperage halves as voltage increases.
Switching and breaking AC is much easier than DC and the hardware is commonly available.

 
If you choose the right string inverter you can go DC over 1000 volts if the panels are rated at that.

With Micros you can only got to 240 VAC
 
  • Wire size for the distance. I don't want to have to pull wire again and if the current system and the upgraded system will use the same wire size then that would be nice.
Overcabling for end goal is always good.
  • If I oversize the wire now, will that cause an issue with my upgrade (can wire size be too big)?
Going way oversized would be dumb but it won’t hurt anything but your wallet.
But you need to figure out how you plan this to work: because microinverters or other power switches/controller units/inverters are entirely different approaches and the resultant cable needs are different. You have an end game but haven’t hired the team or the trainers or the logistics staff to put it in metaphor.
“microinverters or or power optimizers or not?”
  • AC or DC from panels to inverters at 200 feet?
Well I’m certainly not the expert on grid tie, so pardon my bluntness: that answer is driven by your goals. And practicality. And you don’t know that information because you haven’t studied enough. You are asking implementation questions but you haven’t yet achieved or attained enough knowledge to ask the right engineering questions.

First thing you say you want net zero. No batteries. Maybe that can be done. No batteries almost always means microinverters but if the end game is battery backup deciding how to charge them now is probably fairly important. That may or may not involve microinverters.

I think what everyone’s saying is you’re missing too much information. Describe the end goal precisely- then start selecting equipment that will accomplish that and assign those things with a cost. Then back out the batteries or anything else you want to scrimp and you’ll see phase one’s cost less the electrician. That way you don’t buy equipment twice - or if it’s totally wrong- three times after you smoke something.

You are sortof starting in the middle, so the system engineering and the place you want to wind up are missing.
 
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