Gyll Batteries Just Facts.

JoeHam said:

Is there any reason to prefer ID 0 ?

Seems like the problem is already solved with sequential numbering. As preferred by OCD folks. ?

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I suppose other OCD folks might follow the manual’s instructions, they appear to be using a different BMS and as with most of this Chinese stuff no detailed manual but there might be a reason for ID1 being used in a multiple battery bank system instead of starting with ID2.
Given the problem getting the usual daisy chained RS485 ports to work I would have at least tried setting one bank to ID1 to see if that made a difference

dweick said:

ID1 is reserved, as per the manual but my question is why you didn't start with ID 0 which is available

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It's kinda hard to understand why you keep pushing this ..... the address could by anything he wants ... except 1. It's not like he is going to run out of addresses unless he uses 0.

Bob B said:

It's kinda hard to understand why you keep pushing this ..... the address could by anything he wants ... except 1. It's not like he is going to run out of addresses unless he uses 0.

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Guess I'm not making myself clear, it is possible address 0 is required for multiple packs, the manual says to use address 0 for Module 1.
He had problems initially because he didn't follow the instructions in the manual and still had issues with daisy chaining after no longer using address 1. It is entirely possible the BMS software does something different for the pack with address 0. Some BMS manuals specifically call the packs after the first one slave packs and specify a specific ID for the master.

Is there something wrong with following the instructions in the manual when troubleshooting, or even better from the very start because I sense a lot of hostility for suggesting that when a problem occurs you should RTFM and do what it says.

dweick said:

Guess I'm not making myself clear, it is possible address 0 is required for multiple packs, the manual says to use address 0 for Module 1.
He had problems initially because he didn't follow the instructions in the manual and still had issues with daisy chaining after no longer using address 1. It is entirely possible the BMS software does something different for the pack with address 0. Some BMS manuals specifically call the packs after the first one slave packs and specify a specific ID for the master.

Is there something wrong with following the instructions in the manual when troubleshooting, or even better from the very start because I sense a lot of hostility for suggesting that when a problem occurs you should RTFM and do what it says.

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Oh .... gotcha

I'm not sure what the answer is, but it's possible the manual is for the older style that actually worked.

You'd think the support people he worked with would know if that was a requirement .... but no guarantee on that either.

I'd be so grateful for any assistance here. Solar newb in training. 2.8kw array built in May 2021. Battery bank of 3 GYLL 51.2v batteries. I cannot get these batteries to charge beyond 50 % for the last several days. Only once has the center battery reached full charge, the other two have not exceeded 3 bars. We've had reasonably sunny weather for the last two days. On the first nice day, I pulled my freezer and fridge off the system and ran them on the generator in order to get max charge to the batteries. As well, planning on wiring in a plug on the internet l inverter to charge the batteries via generator this weekend.

Here's the charge controller settings:
Charge amperage 59.0
Charge voltage: 59.0
Float 54
Absorb time 900 mins
A few things: charge amperage default is 100. Is this something I should change or will it make a difference? Previously, the absorb time was set to 150 minutes so I increased it to the max at the suggestion of the installer. I'm waiting to hear back further from him on the charging amperage question.

Pictures posted show read outs at around 2 pm when the sun is direct on the panels. They are oriented at 190 degrees and never get shaded. I've had two instances of low voltage shutdown. It's my understanding that the BMS shuts down the batteries to prevent damage. Hopefully I haven't effed up my batteries somehow. I'm awaiting an adapter and cable (and a dedicated laptop for monitoring the BMS) and should have all that in a couple of days. In the meantime, any thoughts? I've read through this entire thread and it's helping me get a handle on the specs. Davidpoz has been helpful too. Thanks again.

Panels might need cleaning. You are only charging them at a 1.44 KWH rate it would take two days to charge them up that is with NO usage. What is your usage?

labeeman said:

Panels might need cleaning. You are only charging them at a 1.44 KWH rate it would take two days to charge them up that is with NO usage. What is your usage?

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I'll clean them first thing in the am. They're a little dusty from pollen. Uncertain on usage, I'll need to calculate it. But for reference, a small fridge and small chest freezer, a couple of box fans overnight. Lights are led and only used as needed. Phones/DeWalt batteries charged daily. But yeah, planning to borrow a killawatt this week to get actual numbers.

The system was planned with a usage of around 10,000 watt hours. I'm certain we're way below that right now as we're not using a window a/c, a clothes washer, exhaust fan or a 12v water pump, all of which were incorporated into the spreadsheet. Upon rough calculation, we're around 4000 watt hours per day currently.

According to your screenshot, you are only making 7.2 KWH a day two box fans running for 9 hours will consume 2KWH a day. depending on the inverter it is using about 1KWH a day. icebox and freezer no idea but let's say they are 3KWH a day that leaves only 1KWH to charge the battery which is 15KWH

HilltopHomestead said:

The system was planned with a usage of around 10,000 watt hours. I'm certain we're way below that right now as we're not using a window a/c, a clothes washer, exhaust fan or a 12v water pump, all of which were incorporated into the spreadsheet. Upon rough calculation, we're around 4000 watt hours per day currently.

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If the panels were putting out their rated power which most do not that would only be 14KWH a day and would only give you a cushion of 4KWH not much room for cloudy rainy days. Also, batteries are not 100% efficient.

Thanks for the reply. So it's looking like I'm under producing/over using and that's hampering the batteries' ability to charge. I'll take that over having actual battery issues. I'll be interested in getting this plug for the generator wired in and getting the batteries fully charged. At current usage, we have been going into night at 2 bars each and starting the day with a bar each. I have room to expand the array if needed going forward.

I purchased 6 of their EG4 24V 200Ah racks. My question that others may be wondering about is running 2 racks in series then parallel for the 3 groups? I am running a 48V system but Signature Solar hasn't had the 48V in stock. I'm running a MPP Solar PIP-LV5048 Inverter.
Update: Just ordered 6 more of the 24V 200Ah racks. They tell me the 24V 200Ah and 48V 100Ah are identical except for the way their wired. They only have a small lot left if anyone's interested.

I am setting up my first system. I'm paring an MPP LV6548 with 2 Gyll 48v LiFePower4 batteries (the slightly older version). I've also established communication between one battery and a laptop via USB cable. Now I'm ready to connect one battery (for now) to the LV6548. But I'm not clear on what I need to use for some of the inverter settings.

Will's all-in-one page recommends User-Defined as the battery type setting for lithium batteries. But there are several options in the LV6548 manual that should automatically set other options to correct values for you. "Other" battery types include Pylontech, WECO, Soltaro, LIb protocol-compatible, and 3rd party Lithium Battery. Choosing one of these automatically sets options 26, 27, 29, and possibly 02 and 12. Has anyone used one of these battery types or is everyone just using manual settings? If manual, could you please specify what you're using for the following?

02 - Max charging current - Will had the default as 60A but my version of the LV6548 manual has default as 30A.
12 - Setting voltage point back - 23v default
26 - Bulk charging voltage - Will says use 28.8 for LiFePo4 (probably for 24v battery?). My manual says default 56.4 and I see people in this thread are using 52v?
27 - Float charging voltage - Will says 27v (probably for 24v battery?) but default is 54v.
29 - Low DC cutoff - Default is 44v

Thanks!

Ampster said:

That is $312 per kWh

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1499/5.12=$292

Joe BoyKey said:

with multiple adapter plugged into usb ports, its a simple click on the com drop down to switch com ports and the pack id is always on the right id
View attachment 48699

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I have solved the Commutations issue with the Signature Solar EG4 LL 48 volt batteries with the LCD display. I now have my 4 batteries commutating with my laptop. I am only using one USB to RS 485 adapter. You can see the video at:
The video is only 7:41 long but if you don't want to watch the entire video just jump to 3:05 and it will show you what I did to resolve it.
I included a drawing of how I have it wired.

Does anyone know what the Low Capacity warning is looking at in the BMS_Tools software. The only Low Warning mentioned on the parameter page I see is in the balance section and all it says is 10%. 10% of what?

JKKD said:

10% of what?

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I don't have a GYLL but on my BMS the settings that use percentages refer to percentage of capacity. In my case the capacity is a user setting and the internal Coulomb counter is what the battery percentage is based on. It can get out of whack occasionally so I like to make sure it gets reset by getting a full charge fairly often.

Ampster said:

I don't have a GYLL but on my BMS the settings that use percentages refer to percentage of capacity. In my case the capacity is a user setting and the internal Coulomb counter is what the battery percentage is based on. It can get out of whack occasionally so I like to make sure it gets reset by getting a full charge fairly often.

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Well, I fully charge the batteries nearly every day but I've never discharged them to the point the BMS shuts them down which should be @ 20%. The lowest I've ever taken them was 25% one time. I have my sol-ark inverter set not to go below 30% so I wonder if that is why the BMS is complaining about low capacity since it's never seen the full range?

JKKD said:

I wonder if that is why the BMS is complaining about low capacity since it's never seen the full range?

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Full range? My inverter and BMS only reset at the top.
I also do not understand why you are relying on the BMS to shut down at low voltage? It is better to adjust Inverter setting so that does not happen. The BMS should be last resort.

I won't rely on the BMS to shut it down but I've never even been close to that point. I did a deep discharge yesterday on one battery and figured out that while my inverter said it was at 20%, the battery still said 40% so I had to set the inverter to 0% as the shutdown point to get the battery down to 20%. Even then the voltage was still at 50.1V where the batteries BMS isn't set to warn about under voltage until 45V. So I guess that means the lowest I had ever previously taken the batteries was to about 45%. I've only had it running for about 45 days. We've got cruddy weather here today so I won't know if it had any effect on my low capacity warning until maybe tomorrow afternoon when the batteries get charged and switch to standby which is when the low capacity warning appears. I'll let all the batteries get a good deep discharge cycle tonight. Normally I have them grid charge if there's a chance of a storm but I won't need to do that tonight.