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Gyll Batteries Just Facts.

birdman333

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Joined
Jun 6, 2020
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37
Hi people, is that politically correct? I know who cares right! I have done alot of research on these batteries and I will again say no one pays me or gives me aany breaks on stuff, no affiliation with signaturesolar so I'll just tell it like it is. First I built my own to start with just like Will shows.
1. To get good quality cells and BMS it still cost me $1783. Was it fun, ya and a little scarry, yes.
2. Gyll batteries use these new Prysmatic cells which cost alot more but are supposed to last for 7000 cycles.
3. I paid $1500 for the first 4 that I purchased and recieved them right away.
4. They sold me 2 more at a much cheaper price because they were waiting for a shippment to come in and they told me it could be 2 months or so.
5. They now have alot in stock. They purchase several large containers to get a good price and I purchased 4 more and got them right away. 4 days later.
6. They come with a 5yr warranty and have a intelligent BMS that gives you alot of info and balance all cells every day. Not equalize which you should not do with Lithium.
7. If you only buy 1 or two batteries then ya, you pay for shipping. Cost varies you know if you need a liftgate or not and where you are. I'm not positive but I think every thing you buy will have a added cost for shipping whether you know it or not.
8. $1475 plus $70 for shipping on there Ebay sight and ask if you buy more can you get a discount.
9. They are an American company out of Texas and the family runs it. Yes I know all components come from CHINA. Including COVID.
10. If you have any questions they answer them for you and help you out with your setup.

I now have 10 batteries, not all in the attached picture, and have been them running since September or so. The only problem I have had was when I tried to update firmware which may have been my mistake I'm not sure but they sent me a new BMS for free so no biggy.

They are a newer company so I know at first they sold out quickly and I'm sure thats why they ordered so many more this time.
Anyway thats just the facts as I know them. I don't understand why some people seem to get mad or bent out of shape just for sharing info but some people do and say they can build these much cheaper but don't say how much cheaper nor do they say what quality of components they are using. I'm not the enemy I'm just saying what I'm doing. No one has to read this or take my advice, which I'm not giving, I'm just sharing with you which is what I thought this whole forum was about.
 

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Hey Birdman, keep it coming. I enjoy all stories that people sure in the group. I know how it feels to get rimmed over sharing a project. The rimming was uncalled for as I was just sharing a newie enthusiasm and progress on my project.

By profession, I'm a retired Electronic engineer and my only experience with batteries is 50 years ago on research on Ni-Cd and fuel-cells for space applications with a defense company I worked for for 20 years. I know nothing about all the new batteries that are discussed in this group, and my head hasn't stopped spinning over how many different types there are and their pros and cons.

Again, thanks for your input on articles and keep them coming.
 
Hi people, is that politically correct? I know who cares right! I have done alot of research on these batteries and I will again say no one pays me or gives me aany breaks on stuff, no affiliation with signaturesolar so I'll just tell it like it is. First I built my own to start with just like Will shows.
1. To get good quality cells and BMS it still cost me $1783. Was it fun, ya and a little scarry, yes.
2. Gyll batteries use these new Prysmatic cells which cost alot more but are supposed to last for 7000 cycles.
3. I paid $1500 for the first 4 that I purchased and recieved them right away.
4. They sold me 2 more at a much cheaper price because they were waiting for a shippment to come in and they told me it could be 2 months or so.
5. They now have alot in stock. They purchase several large containers to get a good price and I purchased 4 more and got them right away. 4 days later.
6. They come with a 5yr warranty and have a intelligent BMS that gives you alot of info and balance all cells every day. Not equalize which you should not do with Lithium.
7. If you only buy 1 or two batteries then ya, you pay for shipping. Cost varies you know if you need a liftgate or not and where you are. I'm not positive but I think every thing you buy will have a added cost for shipping whether you know it or not.
8. $1475 plus $70 for shipping on there Ebay sight and ask if you buy more can you get a discount.
9. They are an American company out of Texas and the family runs it. Yes I know all components come from CHINA. Including COVID.
10. If you have any questions they answer them for you and help you out with your setup.

I now have 10 batteries, not all in the attached picture, and have been them running since September or so. The only problem I have had was when I tried to update firmware which may have been my mistake I'm not sure but they sent me a new BMS for free so no biggy.

They are a newer company so I know at first they sold out quickly and I'm sure thats why they ordered so many more this time.
Anyway thats just the facts as I know them. I don't understand why some people seem to get mad or bent out of shape just for sharing info but some people do and say they can build these much cheaper but don't say how much cheaper nor do they say what quality of components they are using. I'm not the enemy I'm just saying what I'm doing. No one has to read this or take my advice, which I'm not giving, I'm just sharing with you which is what I thought this whole forum was about.
I ordered 2 of the 48v 100ah GYLL batteries. Should be delivered on Monday. Seems like a good deal to me for those who don't have the expertise to build their own (me) and don't want to pay crazy prices for other LiFePO4 batteries. That's my normal approach for most things. I don't buy the most expensive, and I don't need the cheapest. Something in between that will work, suits me fine. I didn't think shipping was more than it should be. Each battery is about 100# and they are shipping LTL.
I'm hoping that the pair of them will be enough for my small system. 1.9kw 6 panel system with a Growatt 3kw all-in-one controller for my 900 sq ft off grid place. I was looking through the user manual and it is suggested that the best charging voltage is 56v. It also said the BMS discharge warning voltage is 45v and cutoff is 43.2v. It doesn't have a recommendation for what voltage to set as my low voltage to stop discharging. What are you using and is that what is recommended for best energy supply/longevity?
Also, I wasn't planning on hooking up a computer to interface with the BMS. Is it necessary? I'm hoping that the WiFi module for the Growatt will give enough info for me to use the system and monitor it.
Thanks!
 
I’m happy with the one I bought. Shipping from TX to OH was $80 for one battery.

Mine was $1250 plus shipping but I paid in full months in advance. I see the price has gone up but it’s still cheaper than the 60ah Fortune 16s build I did with a Chargery BMS.

I need to get the software and take a look at what information is available at the cell level.

I’m drooling over your pile of them in the rack. I’m considering a second one.

Although we all call them GYLL I think the actual name may be G4LL. Just the facts ?
 
For what it’s worth I started a thread on them back in July:

 
Hey Birdman, keep it coming. I enjoy all stories that people sure in the group. I know how it feels to get rimmed over sharing a project. The rimming was uncalled for as I was just sharing a newie enthusiasm and progress on my project.

I figured that was a typo, meant to say "reamed". Different meaning, you know.

Or, different place, different idiom?
 
@euphonius and I have also been discussing this battery over in this thread:


Trying to move that discussion here on getting access to the BMS monitoring.

Frankly, it looks very impressive to me.
 
I ordered 2 of the 48v 100ah GYLL batteries. Should be delivered on Monday. Seems like a good deal to me for those who don't have the expertise to build their own (me) and don't want to pay crazy prices for other LiFePO4 batteries. That's my normal approach for most things. I don't buy the most expensive, and I don't need the cheapest. Something in between that will work, suits me fine. I didn't think shipping was more than it should be. Each battery is about 100# and they are shipping LTL.
I'm hoping that the pair of them will be enough for my small system. 1.9kw 6 panel system with a Growatt 3kw all-in-one controller for my 900 sq ft off grid place. I was looking through the user manual and it is suggested that the best charging voltage is 56v. It also said the BMS discharge warning voltage is 45v and cutoff is 43.2v. It doesn't have a recommendation for what voltage to set as my low voltage to stop discharging. What are you using and is that what is recommended for best energy supply/longevity?
Also, I wasn't planning on hooking up a computer to interface with the BMS. Is it necessary? I'm hoping that the WiFi module for the Growatt will give enough info for me to use the system and monitor it.
Thanks!
Hi, that is what I have been trying to figure out, although I have had no probems. I was told by signaturesolar to set the voltage to 58v yet the manual say 56v is best. I set mine to 56.5v when I go over that I sometimes get an OV pack warningbut never shuts off. Look at the parameters in the BMS_TOOLS program and it should be set as 57v for warning and 58v for shut down but, the software has changed on my batteries 4 are set to low at 56v for warning that is why I tried to reprogram but of course they won't give you the password to write to the batteries thats why my #1 battery failed. My attempt at reprograming using serial bootloader which they gave to me. It said it was erasing then writing, and then complete,but then the bms crashed and never worked again. Thats why they sent me a new BMS which I need to replace as soon as I get a chance. Low voltage I thought was 42v. It depends on the MPPT you have because you cannot use the Lithium setting on any Growatt product with these batteries. You must use the user define setting and set it up manually. Which works great. They want, (Growatt) to buy their batteries. I am trying to get the Growatt app to work I am told I can change the settings easily with it. I'm going to try once I get time to set it up again. Did not work several times I tried before but now there is a youtube on it. Two batteries may work fine, I'm finding out that max number of amps on the inverter is the main concern with what your system can run. Both of my inverters,12kw Growatt and10kw Ames can only handle 50amps out. So my big house needs two which take care of that. If you want I can tell you how to build your own transfer switch so much cheaper then buying one if you need. It's nice to be able to switch between grid power and solar with just a switch. You may not have grid power at you place I don't know.

Good luck and if I can help, let me know
Scott
 

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I figured that was a typo, meant to say "reamed". Different meaning, you know.

Or, different place, different idiom?
Either way works for me LOL. I know after building my battery and then I found these Gyll batteries for $1500 I was mad at myself, but it wasn't anyones fault but mine.
 
yet the manual say 56v is best.

Of course 56v is 3.5v per cell which is fine. There is very little capacity from 3.5 up to 3.65 v.

Running between 3 and 3.5v per cell is truly living between the knees on the discharge curve.

That is probably close enough to 90% of capacity and should allow for a long life.
 
Battery manual:


BMS software:


As yet untested RS485 dongle that I just ordered:


Very helpful YouTube:


I can confirm that all the links I put above in post #8 work. And the $7 RS485 dongle works.

WIN10 launched the RS 485 dongle without problems.

I also put it on an old Win Vista laptop and I had to go find the CH341SER.INF driver for it.

The BMS in this battery is amazing. Cell level monitoring, balancing activity, temperature in 4 quadrants, data logging, total battery life %, number of times it has been cycled, whether the battery heater is on (I don’t think mine has that option), and probably a bunch more stuff I haven’t found yet.

And I didn’t even know all this stuff was there when I bought it!

Consider me happy ?.
 
I can confirm that all the links I put above in post #8 work. And the $7 RS485 dongle works.

WIN10 launched the RS 485 dongle without problems.

I also put it on an old Win Vista laptop and I had to go find the CH341SER.INF driver for it.

The BMS in this battery is amazing. Cell level monitoring, balancing activity, temperature in 4 quadrants, data logging, total battery life %, number of times it has been cycled, whether the battery heater is on (I don’t think mine has that option), and probably a bunch more stuff I haven’t found yet.

And I didn’t even know all this stuff was there when I bought it!

Consider me happy ?.
Dear JoeHam, I have also purchased the RS485 dongle off Amazon, and my Win10 laptop shows the CH340 driver on Com5. But I'm clearly not wiring the right ethernet leads into the adapter. I used brown and brown/white (pins 7 and 8) as Signature recommends, no dice. The battery user manual says it should be pin 1 and pin 3 (green/white and orange/white), but no dice. BMS_Tools scans but doesn't find my battery.

Which ethernet leads did you use to wire the RS485 adapter?

Thanks!
 
Dear JoeHam, I have also purchased the RS485 dongle off Amazon, and my Win10 laptop shows the CH340 driver on Com5. But I'm clearly not wiring the right ethernet leads into the adapter. I used brown and brown/white (pins 7 and 8) as Signature recommends, no dice. The battery user manual says it should be pin 1 and pin 3 (green/white and orange/white), but no dice. BMS_Tools scans but doesn't find my battery.

Which ethernet leads did you use to wire the RS485 adapter?

Thanks!
Updating: rewired my USB-RS485 cable with CH340 adapter, and it worked: I can see the BMS and state of cells. So now I'm ready to swap out my failing lead acid bank.
 
Glad to hear it!

Just saw your earlier question but I used the brown and brown/white like the YouTube said.
 
I’m happy with the one I bought. Shipping from TX to OH was $80 for one battery.

Mine was $1250 plus shipping but I paid in full months in advance. I see the price has gone up but it’s still cheaper than the 60ah Fortune 16s build I did with a Chargery BMS.

I need to get the software and take a look at what information is available at the cell level.

I’m drooling over your pile of them in the rack. I’m considering a second one.

Although we all call them GYLL I think the actual name may be G4LL. Just the facts ?
You're right, they have gone up, but they advertise them as a GYLL, not G4LL...just saying.
48V 100AH LiFePo4 5.12kWH Lithium Gyll Battery

$1,499.00


Add to Cart
 
Hi people, is that politically correct? I know who cares right! I have done alot of research on these batteries and I will again say no one pays me or gives me aany breaks on stuff, no affiliation with signaturesolar so I'll just tell it like it is. First I built my own to start with just like Will shows.
1. To get good quality cells and BMS it still cost me $1783. Was it fun, ya and a little scarry, yes.
2. Gyll batteries use these new Prysmatic cells which cost alot more but are supposed to last for 7000 cycles.
3. I paid $1500 for the first 4 that I purchased and recieved them right away.
4. They sold me 2 more at a much cheaper price because they were waiting for a shippment to come in and they told me it could be 2 months or so.
5. They now have alot in stock. They purchase several large containers to get a good price and I purchased 4 more and got them right away. 4 days later.
6. They come with a 5yr warranty and have a intelligent BMS that gives you alot of info and balance all cells every day. Not equalize which you should not do with Lithium.
7. If you only buy 1 or two batteries then ya, you pay for shipping. Cost varies you know if you need a liftgate or not and where you are. I'm not positive but I think every thing you buy will have a added cost for shipping whether you know it or not.
8. $1475 plus $70 for shipping on there Ebay sight and ask if you buy more can you get a discount.
9. They are an American company out of Texas and the family runs it. Yes I know all components come from CHINA. Including COVID.
10. If you have any questions they answer them for you and help you out with your setup.

I now have 10 batteries, not all in the attached picture, and have been them running since September or so. The only problem I have had was when I tried to update firmware which may have been my mistake I'm not sure but they sent me a new BMS for free so no biggy.

They are a newer company so I know at first they sold out quickly and I'm sure thats why they ordered so many more this time.
Anyway thats just the facts as I know them. I don't understand why some people seem to get mad or bent out of shape just for sharing info but some people do and say they can build these much cheaper but don't say how much cheaper nor do they say what quality of components they are using. I'm not the enemy I'm just saying what I'm doing. No one has to read this or take my advice, which I'm not giving, I'm just sharing with you which is what I thought this whole forum was about.
Wow, that's quite a rack you have there. LOL. I just sent a check to Signature Solar for a rack full myself. Now I have to figure out what else I'll need to power my barn/house project. I'm doing it backwards, I know, buying batteries, solar panels, and other stuff, even before the building is constructed, but what the hell, it's only money. ?
 
By the way, I recently bought one (24v 200ah model) for $1400 even (plus shipping). That's down to $268.72 per kWh. I mentioned the forum and that may have influenced the price.
When you factor in the 100A BMS, the fixture/enclosure, 4 temperature sensors, a low/hi temp disconnect, monitoring software and USA support, all-in-all a pretty good deal - especially if you don't want to wait/build one yourself. Spoke to James @ Signature Solar - he was quite forthcoming with requested information. One note: the 24v model does not have the 100A circuit breaker - just an on/off switch - I expect that might be because at 24v there's a higher likelihood of exceeding 100A during discharge surges. I plan on adding a terminal OCPD ( I already have T-rated fusing between my bus bar and inverter).
 
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