Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
I was using just 48 volts not the nominal voltage of 16 cells at 3.2 volts.
Gyll Batteries Just Facts.
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Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
Your number is a more accurate and consistent calcultation.
euphonius
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Update from the Mendocino coast:
I've been running a little 2.8kw off-grid system (Midnite Classic 150, Magnum 48v, 8 6v golf cart batteries) for several years, and have been planning a major expansion to 22kw so I can build and power a house (including a heat pump for radiant floor heating, power the old trailer I'm living in now and charge two EVs (a 75kWh sedan and a 48v golf cart) among other loads. I'm still preparing for the solar hardware, but bought one unit of the GYLL 48v battery because individual cells in my lead acid bank were starting to fail. I swapped out the whole LA bank and replaced it with the one 5.12kWh/100Ah 48v GYLL on 13 December.
The single GYLL has matched, even exceeded, the aging lead acid bank, despite a rated capacity of less than half that of the lead acid bank (100Ah vs 220Ah). Needless to say, the 50 percent low discharge limit of lead acid drops that 220Ah to 110Ah, while the LiFePo4 chemistry has happily tolerated discharge as low as 28 percent. The GYLL charges very rapidly, slurping down everything my array and charge controller will send it (usually 30A or so) or 60A from my generator. It's easily enough to get me through one night with my modest load of a small fridge, some lights and computers, and a bunch of always-on networking. Unless the forecast is confidently sunny, I can't really leave for more than a day knowing the battery might not get charged. One more GYLL should solve that.
I'm scratching my head about one key issue with the GYLL LiFePo4 battery: how to manage solar charge after it reaches 100 percent state of charge. On a sunny day, I reach 100 percent before noon. But if I use power tools or apply other loads, it seems the system is not routing power to the inverter from the array, but pulling from the battery. I'm guessing this has to do with my charge controller settings for float and rebulk, and I've been wanting to tinker with this but haven't had a really solid sunny day to do so. Anyone here with a comparable system who can help me understand where to set the float and rebulk voltages?
cheers!
I've been running a little 2.8kw off-grid system (Midnite Classic 150, Magnum 48v, 8 6v golf cart batteries) for several years, and have been planning a major expansion to 22kw so I can build and power a house (including a heat pump for radiant floor heating, power the old trailer I'm living in now and charge two EVs (a 75kWh sedan and a 48v golf cart) among other loads. I'm still preparing for the solar hardware, but bought one unit of the GYLL 48v battery because individual cells in my lead acid bank were starting to fail. I swapped out the whole LA bank and replaced it with the one 5.12kWh/100Ah 48v GYLL on 13 December.
The single GYLL has matched, even exceeded, the aging lead acid bank, despite a rated capacity of less than half that of the lead acid bank (100Ah vs 220Ah). Needless to say, the 50 percent low discharge limit of lead acid drops that 220Ah to 110Ah, while the LiFePo4 chemistry has happily tolerated discharge as low as 28 percent. The GYLL charges very rapidly, slurping down everything my array and charge controller will send it (usually 30A or so) or 60A from my generator. It's easily enough to get me through one night with my modest load of a small fridge, some lights and computers, and a bunch of always-on networking. Unless the forecast is confidently sunny, I can't really leave for more than a day knowing the battery might not get charged. One more GYLL should solve that.
I'm scratching my head about one key issue with the GYLL LiFePo4 battery: how to manage solar charge after it reaches 100 percent state of charge. On a sunny day, I reach 100 percent before noon. But if I use power tools or apply other loads, it seems the system is not routing power to the inverter from the array, but pulling from the battery. I'm guessing this has to do with my charge controller settings for float and rebulk, and I've been wanting to tinker with this but haven't had a really solid sunny day to do so. Anyone here with a comparable system who can help me understand where to set the float and rebulk voltages?
cheers!
Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
I set float at just above resting voltage so that during the day some of the solar will go to the batteries during the day while there is some load. For my batteries that is 3.35 volts per cell. Rebulk is at 3.25 and Absorb 3.4
euphonius
New Member
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Many thanks, Ampster. Very useful. On my 16-cell GYLL, that would be float at 53.6v, 52v for rebulk and 54.4v for absorb. I'll tinker with these values.
Hi JoeHam,Battery manual:
GYll Battery Manual 01.pdf
workdrive.zohoexternal.com
BMS software:
bms_tools_2.0.6(3).zip
workdrive.zohoexternal.com
As yet untested RS485 dongle that I just ordered:
Very helpful YouTube:
Could you tell me brown and white brown what pin on rj45?
euphonius
New Member
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Here's a video that shows the BMS dongle wiring.
It took me a couple of tries before I got it right.
i tried kike a video but not connected
what ethernet cable you use? white brown and brown?
Joe BoyKey
Watts, Watts, more Watts
Brown - White pins 7 - 8 
Also be aware the dip switch settings in the manual are backwards, low is high, high is low, Joe.
Also be aware the dip switch settings in the manual are backwards, low is high, high is low, Joe.
I just followed the Youtube video I put in post # 8
euphonius
New Member
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Dear Alkafa,
You cannot make this connection with only an ethernet cable. You must have an RJ45 plug at one end and an RS485 CH340 USB dongle at the other. The dongle has only two ports, positive and negative. The USB plug goes into your laptop. Please view and understand the video from Signature Solar.
Joe BoyKey
Watts, Watts, more Watts
I own 3 now and love them.
Dave (Boog)
New Member
Just went to order two 24v Gyll batteries from Signature Solar. I’m not impressed with their customer service. I plan on running two of the 24v batteries in parallel so I called to ask what size cable they recommended. I have some 2 AWG cable and wanted to know if that would work. The guy I talked to had no idea. Suggested I go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and ask someone there!
I want to add that I’m not saying these batteries are bad, I’m still interested in them. And I’m not saying that Signature Solar is bad either. Just that I was really surprised that their technical support couldn’t help me decide what size cable to use with a product they sell.
I want to add that I’m not saying these batteries are bad, I’m still interested in them. And I’m not saying that Signature Solar is bad either. Just that I was really surprised that their technical support couldn’t help me decide what size cable to use with a product they sell.
Last edited:
SignatureSolarUS
Solar Enthusiast
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Hi David, we're sorry that you were not forwarded to tech support and provided the info you needed, this is good feedback that we take seriously.
As to your question, the MAX amperage of 2AWG (assuming 90C rating) is 138A, both batteries can put out 100A, so parallel Amps could potentially be up to 200 if you used a 2/0 Wire, but if you are planning to use low amps I don't see why you would have an issue practically. Codes would say that you should match wires to amperage to keep things safe under any circumstances.
SignatureSolarUS
Solar Enthusiast
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Dave (Boog)
New Member
I appreciate a direct response from SignatureSolar to my issue. Thanks for that information, I will do some research and will buy cables that match the amount of possible current that two of those batteries in parallel can draw. Thanks.
