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Switchover to Lithium

I like the idea of just removing the fuse from the charge wire in the 7 pin.
 
Sounds like an appeal to authority.
Ok maybe I should have said avg Bob or no specific name at all instead of using your name Joe sorry nothing against you at all :) I appreciate all feedback just makes it hard on who to believe is correct.
 
The companies I contacted are large companies that are victron and battleborn authorized installers that do $20k systems all day everyday...These are not avg joe rv dealers they are rv solar and lithuim install corporations that is all they do :unsure:
I appreciate all feedback just makes it hard on who to believe is correct
So don't believe anyone. Go and research the difference between lead acid and lithium charge profiles, then come back here and post the results of your research.

You could save a bit of time and listen to the people here who have done the research, or you could listen to the common masses who either don't care, don't know to care, or make their living selling replacement batteries to you.
 
I like the idea of just removing the fuse from the charge wire in the 7 pin.
My problem with this idea is...
It fixes a trailer problem by changing the tow vehicle.
The tow vehicle can tow other trailers and the trailer can be towed by other tow vehicles.
Won't be an issue in the common case but it does tweak my OCD.
 
Keeping the 7 pin charge but isolating it from the LiFePO4 battery bank was not a simple effort on my part. It took a lot of tracing wires and use of a multimeter. Then I went and reversed part of it so that an isolated converter could provide a charge back to that circuit (the tongue battery I mentioned in post #3). Now, I'm going to change it again so my new inverter/charger with a trickle charger takes care of the charge back to that circuit. I have an on-board generator which complicates the arrangement a bit.
 
large companies that are victron and battleborn authorized installers that do $20k systems all day everyday
I stand by what I said.
I’ve yet to see an RV dealer professional installation done well. That they are large corporations makes them more suspicious in my book.
 
Did you install the 12V trailer fuse? My 2005 F150 came from the factory without the fuse.
I bought my truck new. A fuse, relay and brake controller wire harness came in a small plastic bag in the glove box. Yes I installed them next day.
 
I have a 2018 F150. When driving with discharged lithium batteries, they got a whopping 2A of charge. You really don't need to worry about disconnecting the wire from the 7 pin. There is also no backfeeding to the truck battery that will happen since the trucks module turns off the connection when the truck is off.
 
I have a 2018 F150. When driving with discharged lithium batteries, they got a whopping 2A of charge. You really don't need to worry about disconnecting the wire from the 7 pin.
Its not the current its the voltage.
What voltage is your alternator producing?
 
Its not the current its the voltage.
What voltage is your alternator producing?
Varies between 12.8 and 14.4 which is lower than my Progressive dynamics lithium converter. The BMS will protect the battery

I actually put a switch in my 7 pin wire so I can select 12V from the body module, 12V constant or off for other reasons than charging my trailer battery. I also have a Victron DC to DC converter that charges my batteries so no need for the 7 pin.

BTW...kinda interesting hearing people tell the OP to pull a fuse when they have no idea how the wiring is done with the Ford module.
 
Its not the current its the voltage.
What voltage is your alternator producing?
Mike Sokal has talked about this many times and again in this video....that no matter the DC to DC charger rating with todays vehicles being smart and how they regulate voltage it will always go up and down so even if you have a 30a DC to DC charger you may not always get that 30 amps he also states no issue charging lifepo4 from the 7 pin it just wont be much at all limited to around 5 amps on avg...Isolating is necessary of course on motor homes etc...I love watching his videos on his channel and am also a member of his facebook group. Check him out if you don't know about him,

 
Varies between 12.8 and 14.4 which is lower than my Progressive dynamics lithium converter.
Exposing a battery to voltage above its full resting value after the battery is charged is the stressor that we are trying to avoid.
If your PD converter also does that then its not fit for purpose.
The bms will likely not trigger until a cell exeeds 3.65 volts or the aggregate is greater than 3.65 volts per cell.
 
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Exposing a battery to 14.4 volts after it is done accepting current is the stressor that we are tyring to avoid.
If your PD converter also does that then its not fit for purpose.
The bms will likely not trigger until a cell exeeds 3.65 volts or the aggregate is greater than 3.65 volts per cell.
Then you need to talk to Battleborn and Progressive dynamics then and tell them they are both wrong.
 
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Then you need to talk to Battleborn and Progressive dynamics then and tell them they are both wrong.

BTW..stop telling the OP with a 2018 F150 to pull a fuse when you have no idea what that will do.
They can do whatever they want.
I will continue to call it like I see it.
 
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I'm pretty sure the PD converter charges at the 14.6 rate then drops to the resting 13.6 once the battery is fully charged. I'm sure I read that somewhere before I know that is the way the WFCO I have is when it hits that absorption mode.
 
I'm pretty sure the PD converter charges at the 14.6 rate then drops to the resting 13.6 once the battery is fully charged. I'm sure I read that somewhere before I know that is the way the WFCO I have is when it hits that absorption mode.
It doesn't which is why some people complain about it.
 

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