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What CTs are people using for 4/0 cable?

Skirt the lines? I have solar-batteries-gtil inverter. How is that different than anybody else's?
Did you get permits? Are you being inspected? Did you enter into a net metering agreement with your electric company?

Frankly, idgaf one way or the other. What you do is your business, but you're the one worried about them asking questions if you have them pull the meter.
 
I'm assuming: panels ->SCC->batteries->inverter(s)->mains, so you're always going through your batteries at all times the inverter(s) running?

The power from chargecontroller can bypass the battery terminals and go straight to the inverter first and the excess pv power at the same time can go into the battery terminal
 
Did you get permits? Are you being inspected? Did you enter into a net metering agreement with your electric company?

Frankly, idgaf one way or the other. What you do is your business, but you're the one worried about them asking questions if you have them pull the meter.
It’s my understanding that a permit isn’t needed unless you are feeding into the grid. These inverters have limiters that prevent that. Engineer775 when installing a SolArk he said something like when using the zero export then permitting/net metering etc isn’t required. Might be different depending on the area.
 
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It’s my understanding that a permit isn’t needed unless you are feeding into the grid. These inverters have limiters that prevent that. Engineer775 when installing a SolArk said something like when using the zero export permitting/net metering etc isn’t required. Might be different depending on the area.
I would think they'd still want it documented whats what and where and would want documented proof that it was installed properly, Kinda hard to argue with the safety aspect of that. Anyway, its not like i'm code enforcement. I'm just here because it interests me and I like learning new things.
 
I would think they'd still want it documented whats what and where and would want documented proof that it was installed properly, Kinda hard to argue with the safety aspect of that. Anyway, its not like i'm code enforcement. I'm just here because it interests me and I like learning new things.
Yeah they want it documented. If they see solar on your roof they automatically want to look inside. They could simply say they seen backfeeding even if it wasn’t happening. I mean you could try to tell them to prove it but they would just shutoff your electricity. Imo it’s no different than wiring up a generator But not everyone can do that safely either.
 
The power from chargecontroller can bypass the battery terminals and go straight to the inverter first and the excess pv power at the same time can go into the battery terminal
Is this somewhat unique to this model/brand SCC, or can all SCC be set to power the inverter first, then battery power with excess?
 
Did you get permits? Are you being inspected? Did you enter into a net metering agreement with your electric company?

Frankly, idgaf one way or the other. What you do is your business, but you're the one worried about them asking questions if you have them pull the meter.
If you read trough the whole thread, the whole point is to NOT have an inspection or draw permits. It's also not that I have any problem doing things to code and being inspected as such - My goal is to do everything better than code. Code is just the maximum younare allowed to suck and get away with it. I have no desire to have my house nor shop burn down.

The problem is that they have the system set up so that you CAN'T DIY and get permits and inspections. The inverters that we are using wouldn't pass the code because they don't have the certifications for shutdown time. The MPPT controllers wouldn't pass code because they don't shut down the panels if you lose the grid. Having a battery backup with solar is also not allowed in my area - you can have one or the other. The power companies HATE solar and they try to make it as difficult/expensive as possible.

And it's not that I'm WORRIED about them asking questions as much as I want to find out what the boundaries are before I run into them. Experience is the best teacher. Someone else's experience is the best experience.
 
Is this somewhat unique to this model/brand SCC, or can all SCC be set to power the inverter first, then battery power with excess?
If any inverters reboot/restart voltage is met, then it should be able to power the loads from pv/charge controller and excess will go into the battery.
 
Even if it wasn't an AIO, as long as the SCC is connected to the same DC bus as the inverter, the electricity is going to flow wherever there's a deficit of voltage. If solar is pumping in 40A, and the inverter is drawing 30A, the remaing 10 will make it to the batteries. If the inverter was pulling 50A, then the remaining 10 would come from the batteries. It just the nature of how electricity flows.
 
If you read trough the whole thread,

Maybe you forgot I was one of the first to comment.

the whole point is to NOT have an inspection or draw permits. It's also not that I have any problem doing things to code and being inspected as such - My goal is to do everything better than code. Code is just the maximum younare allowed to suck and get away with it. I have no desire to have my house nor shop burn down.
I know what code is for. Its not always just about safety for you and your property. It's also about safety for those around you. Neighbors, linemen, etc.
The problem is that they have the system set up so that you CAN'T DIY and get permits and inspections. The inverters that we are using wouldn't pass the code because they don't have the certifications for shutdown time. The MPPT controllers wouldn't pass code because they don't shut down the panels if you lose the grid. Having a battery backup with solar is also not allowed in my area - you can have one or the other. The power companies HATE solar and they try to make it as difficult/expensive as possible.

And it's not that I'm WORRIED about them asking questions as much as I want to find out what the boundaries are before I run into them. Experience is the best teacher. Someone else's experience is the best experience.
Anyway, Like I said, I'm not code enforcement. I was just pointing out that there are ways to do it without the technical term "grid tie". I also understand that may take more of an investment.
 
Maybe you forgot I was one of the first to comment.


I know what code is for. Its not always just about safety for you and your property. It's also about safety for those around you. Neighbors, linemen, etc.

Anyway, Like I said, I'm not code enforcement. I was just pointing out that there are ways to do it without the technical term "grid tie". I also understand that may take more of an investment.
"...more of an investment." It's interesting that you just posted that statement. I just was doing some quick math as you were posting because that is another big reason to do it the way that I am. My neighbor had a 25KW system installed through one of those big companies about two years ago. He paid $40,000.00 back then. At today's prices, I should be able to do the same for around $18,000.00. And I don't need as much power as him. That's a significant difference.
 
"...more of an investment." It's interesting that you just posted that statement. I just was doing some quick math as you were posting because that is another big reason to do it the way that I am. My neighbor had a 25KW system installed through one of those big companies about two years ago. He paid $40,000.00 back then. At today's prices, I should be able to do the same for around $18,000.00. And I don't need as much power as him. That's a significant difference.
Sounds about right. Paying someone to do it is usually more expensive.
 
I got my IotaWatt hooked up and have my first dual coil setup going. The coils that I found appear to be 100A:100ma. That's double what comes with the inverter. When you parallel them, current doubles in parallel, so they read about 4 x what the IotaWatt shows - exactly as expected.

The impoerant thing is that I pushed the inverter to see what would happen. I shut down everything in the shop and bumped up the limit in the inverter. I was idling the shop at 4-hundred-something watts, and it was imbalanced - exactly the conditions I needed for testing. I had 3-something on one leg and 1-something on the other leg. The inverter made power until it saw about 10W from the sensor. The inverter backfed one leg at 1-something and underfed the other leg at 2-something. The sum difference was about 225 watts according to the IotaWatt and it matched what the meter was showing within 2 watts - as a forward current.

So... it would appear as if it doesn't really matter what coils you use so long as they give a current signal instead of a voltage signal and so long as you don't care what number shows on the inverter's display. The inverter will just make power until it gets to a sum near "0". One leg will backfeed, but the meter doesn't seem to see it as long as your sum total is positive.

I'll keep using this setting and see if a big, white truck pulls up in front of my house.
 
I got my IotaWatt hooked up and have my first dual coil setup going. The coils that I found appear to be 100A:100ma. That's double what comes with the inverter. When you parallel them, current doubles in parallel, so they read about 4 x what the IotaWatt shows - exactly as expected.

The impoerant thing is that I pushed the inverter to see what would happen. I shut down everything in the shop and bumped up the limit in the inverter. I was idling the shop at 4-hundred-something watts, and it was imbalanced - exactly the conditions I needed for testing. I had 3-something on one leg and 1-something on the other leg. The inverter made power until it saw about 10W from the sensor. The inverter backfed one leg at 1-something and underfed the other leg at 2-something. The sum difference was about 225 watts according to the IotaWatt and it matched what the meter was showing within 2 watts - as a forward current.

So... it would appear as if it doesn't really matter what coils you use so long as they give a current signal instead of a voltage signal and so long as you don't care what number shows on the inverter's display. The inverter will just make power until it gets to a sum near "0". One leg will backfeed, but the meter doesn't seem to see it as long as your sum total is positive.

I'll keep using this setting and see if a big, white truck pulls up in front of my house.
Your gonna like that Iotawatt. I check it every day. The graphing is really good. You can adjust the time to whatever and see what happened.
Exactly correct. The GTIL2 will supply power till the sensor is zeroed out. That’s why parallel or series dual CTs works.
If you really don’t want the white truck pulling up then use Cts that allow the grid to supply more power. I can’t remember which CTs allow that to happen, but for example the Cts im using allow the grid to supply from 20 to 40w instead of the 7-10w from factory
 

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