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Ryobi Zero-Turn Mower SLA to LiFePo4 Conversion - (Updated - Build Complete With Pics!)

dr.diesel said:
Slightly off topic but does anyhow have any mower blade motor specs? Like RPM, kW etc? I'd like to build a finish mower pull-behind and either buy some factory motors/controllers or have a basic understanding of how powerful they need to be.
Click to expand...
Idle with just the blades running and not cutting anything I believe I remember seeing it pulling 17 amps at the 48v
 
Please do. I don’t have the bandwidth right now but here are a couple of links.

I think LifeTrac was the big one.

Open Source Tractor – LifeTrac 6 Challenge | Engineering & Design Challenges | GrabCAD

Think you have what it takes to solve some of the toughtest engineering problems on the Internet? Then take a GrabCAD Challenge and join other engineers, designers, manufacturers, and students in professional open-engineering challenges.
grabcad.com grabcad.com

Oggún Tractor | Think Oggún

An open-source, modern replica of the Allis G that's revolutionizing farming around the globe.
ronnietractors.com ronnietractors.com
 
dr.diesel said:
Slightly off topic but does anyhow have any mower blade motor specs? Like RPM, kW etc? I'd like to build a finish mower pull-behind and either buy some factory motors/controllers or have a basic understanding of how powerful they need to be.
Click to expand...
From the manual, the cutting motors are 1300 W each - it says 2600 W "cutting power". Not sure about the rpm, but guess it would be around 2500-3000 rpm. I'm looking at replacing these motors with 2x3kW, which I've bought from Golden Motors. I've finished the battery upgrade and while the run time is now much greater, the cutting power is still low (we are rural with paddock grass). The motors and controllers are due any day now - took 4 weeks from China. I should be able to set the rpm and power with these controllers.
It's getting near winter here in Aus, so I plan to do the conversion over winter when the mower is not needed. I'm anticipating problems with attaching the blades to the motor shaft etc, so needs plenty of time.
 
ryobilifepo4user said:
Hello.

Using information I found in this forum and another video, I decided to do a LiFePO4 conversion on my Ryobi zero-turn mower. I carefully and meticulously removed each bolt and connector and laid them out in order removed.

With the tray removed, I replaced each battery one-for-one with a Canbat 60 AH LiFePO4 battery. They are able to be used in banks in series or parallel. Before installing the new batteries, I charged each one individually using a Genuis 5 amp 12v charger.

I carefully put everything back together in reverse. It all went well and I felt confident of the procedure.

Unfortunately, having turned the key to on and hearing the normal "clunk" engage, nothing works: no lights around the buttons, no guage, no headlights; no signs of life. Even worse, after doing it a few times, I no longer here the normal "clunk" engage when turning the key to on.

From this, I have two questions:
  1. What could possibly be the problem why nothing would run? I was under the impression this would be a relatively one-for-one swap out, that all connections could remain in place, and the system would work, except for the gauge that would be inaccurate (which would be fine). Perhaps I was actually supposed to leave some wire disconnected after the conversion?

  2. Now that I don't hear the "clunk" when turning the key, I assume I have destroyed some other electronic component. What is the most likely component to have been damaged and how do I get to it and test it?
I am quite disheartened and I greatly appreciate any insight and help that those here can find time to provide.

Thank you.
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rio said:
Sorry to hear. Regarding your first question, it could be a number of things. For starters, I would check that the overall series voltage of the batteries is what it should be (mid 50's, or up to 58V when fully charged), and continuity test on the main fuse.
Regarding your second question, it could be related to the lockout circuit. See posts #356-360. However, I would not address this until you confirm the proper setup of your battery bank with a meter.
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and
bobbie_ohio said:
Look at all of this thread. I had same problem with no clunk. There is a blue wire that needs tied to the high voltage. On the original wiring , it was going to a post on the original charge port, from there it went as a red wire to a pig tail off the main battery connection. I cut their little connector off on the main battery side keeping the wires as long as possible. I bought an Anderson 30a 10g connector and crimped one end to my charger. The other end I crimped to the red and black little pig tail (10guage) wires and in the process crimped that blue wire with the red on the side coming off the main pack. The clunk should come back once you connect that blue wire to 48v+
Post 360 here is a pic of the connector I ended up cutting off and reusing the wires. I’ll get a pic of my new connector in a few minutes
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for giving some direction @rio and @bobbie_ohio . It gave me the encouragement to start testing things. The good news is that I don't seem to have damaged anything. But, I have a strange and interesting battery issue. Here is what I'm seeing happen. Keep in mind that all I have at the moment is an analog meter, so measurements are approximate.

1. Individually, fully charge all 4 batteries using the Noco Genius 5
2. All batteries testing correctly at around 12v.
3. System tests at about 51v.
4. Install batteries and reconnect the entire system.
5. Turn key to 'On'
6. Expected "clunk" occurs. System appears to power on for just a fraction of a second.
7. System powers off in a fraction of a second.
8. No power to mower. Will not go.
9. Pull main power connector and test voltage.
10. Voltage reads around 28 or, sometimes, around 40
11. Pull out battery bank.
12. Either one, or sometimes two, of the batteries will test at only around 2.5v.
13. Attach Noco Genius 5 to each 2.5v battery for just 5 seconds. Remove charger.
14. Test voltage on battery: about 12v.
15. All batteries now testing at around 12v and system at about 51v.
16. Reinstall battery bank and hook up, and turn key to "On".
17. "Clunk" occurs.
18. If gauge does not light up, you're back to Step 7 above.
19. If gauge lights up, mower will run like a champ. Go mow the lawn, then shut the mower off.
20. But the next time you start the mower, you could be back to Step 5 above.

I recorded a video of this phenomenon that can be viewed here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nv4zu7LXagvquqbaj1GuKbozb-hrs0Sz/view

If the video doesn't play for you in-browser, you can download it using the small down-arrow in the upper-right corner.

What is going on with these batteries? Are they defective? Or, is this some kind of overload protection that happens when the system first starts/clunks? Why would it drop a fully-charged battery to 2.5 volts, only to be restored to 12v at the touch of a charger?

Thank you again for the help. I hope this helps others that might have such a strange issue.
 
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ryobilifepo4user said:
2. All batteries testing correctly at around 12.8v.
Click to expand...
That's far too low. At 12.8 V open circuit your batteries are probably in the bottom 10% of state of charge if not fully depleted.

The resting open circuit voltage for a fully charged 12 V LiFePO4 battery is ~13.8 V.

Either your battery charger isn't charging your batteries or your batteries are junk.

Get a charger designed specifically for charging LiFePO4 batteries then try again.
 
ryobilifepo4user said:
...

12. Either one, or sometimes two, of the batteries will test at only around 2.5v.
13. Attach Noco Genius 5 to each 2.5v battery for just 5 seconds. Remove charger.
...

What is going on with these batteries? Are they defective? Or, is this some kind of overload protection that happens when the system first starts/clunks? Why would it drop a fully-charged battery to 2.5 volts, only to be restored to 12v at the touch of a charger?
Click to expand...
It seems that the batteries are not getting fully charged. I suggest that you get a better charger. The "Noco Genius" to me looks too much like a toy. I am using a Mean Well PB-360 to charge my 4S LifePo4 battery. Yes, it may costs a bit more but it charges with 30 amps instead of the measly 5, and it stops when the battery is actually full, not at voltage that is too low.
 
ryobilifepo4user said:
and


Thank you so much for giving some direction @rio and @bobbie_ohio . It gave me the encouragement to start testing things. The good news is that I don't seem to have damaged anything. But, I have a strange and interesting battery issue. Here is what I'm seeing happen. Keep in mind that all I have at the moment is an analog meter, so measurements are approximate.

1. Individually, fully charge all 4 batteries using the Noco Genius 5
2. All batteries testing correctly at around 12v.
3. System tests at about 51v.
4. Install batteries and reconnect the entire system.
5. Turn key to 'On'
6. Expected "clunk" occurs. System appears to power on for just a fraction of a second.
7. System powers off in a fraction of a second.
8. No power to mower. Will not go.
9. Pull main power connector and test voltage.
10. Voltage reads around 28 or, sometimes, around 40
11. Pull out battery bank.
12. Either one, or sometimes two, of the batteries will test at only around 2.5v.
13. Attach Noco Genius 5 to each 2.5v battery for just 5 seconds. Remove charger.
14. Test voltage on battery: about 12v.
15. All batteries now testing at around 12v and system at about 51v.
16. Reinstall battery bank and hook up, and turn key to "On".
17. "Clunk" occurs.
18. If gauge does not light up, you're back to Step 7 above.
19. If gauge lights up, mower will run like a champ. Go mow the lawn, then shut the mower off.
20. But the next time you start the mower, you could be back to Step 5 above.

I recorded a video of this phenomenon that can be viewed here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nv4zu7LXagvquqbaj1GuKbozb-hrs0Sz/view

If the video doesn't play for you in-browser, you can download it using the small down-arrow in the upper-right corner.

What is going on with these batteries? Are they defective? Or, is this some kind of overload protection that happens when the system first starts/clunks? Why would it drop a fully-charged battery to 2.5 volts, only to be restored to 12v at the touch of a charger?

Thank you again for the help. I hope this helps others that might have such a strange issue.
Click to expand...
I had a similar problem - fully charged battery system that would only fire the contactor then shut down. Battery voltage at 52 etc. In my case it is a dodgy BMS (a Daly unit) that I may have damaged during install. The solution - in my case - is to use the bluetooth app and reset the BMS (sometimes needs 2 or 3 attempts). Once it turns on, it's fine.
 
@ryobilifepo4user, i agree with the others that your batteries are most likely not charged. How long did your charge each battery for? With a 5 amp 12V charger, it would take 20 hours per battery to go from empty to full. Definitely not a good charger for your setup.
 
@ryobilifepo4user Why are you using that tiny little charger? I think the proper procedure with "drop-in" LiFePo4 batteries is to hook them up in parallel for a few days (if supported) to let them balance. After which, just put them back in the mower and use the Ryobi charger. Yes, it may cause the BMS to cutoff (you have 4 BMS units) but you will at least get a full charge. As others have said, it appears your batteries are simply dead. Check with the manufacturer and make sure they support a 4S configuration and then follow the procedures to balance and charge them together.
 
Thank you for all the comments. I have a lot to process and test, then I will get back with what I find. One question: what does this statement mean @AMDPower?
Yes, it may cause the BMS to cutoff...but you will at least get a full charge
Click to expand...
If a BMS cuts off, how would a full charge be obtained? I suspect this is a simple concept I am missing.

Nevermind, I think I found it here (I did read this whole thread previously, but it's a lot to retain).

You should be fine. It's a little much for the LiFePo4. Actually charges at 56+ I think. But the BMS will cutoff prior. Only problem is that the Ryobi charger will sometimes go into an error state when the BMS kicks it off. That's what I found anyway.
Click to expand...
 
Here is my SCC setup to charge right off the panels. Modified the ezgo connector and it plugs in no problems. Lock out does not work currently, can any body tell me if I take the green wire hanging down and connect it to the positive on the SCC is it will fix the lock out functionality? The green wire is connect to the 3 pin that is on the top by itself. I got my cells from signature solar, however they seem to be a bit wider. Currently it's a little over 14in wide with nothing on the sides on. This is a picture of the rough layout of the box. I am try to use 1/4 in plywood on top and bottom. I will add on front and back for regitity. The signature solar cells are nice, becuase they are already in a balanced 24v configuration, 1 bar to join the 2 packs together and you got a easy blanced 48v battery. They have welded terminals with threaded holes in the bus bars for easy balance leady placement. If anyone has a better idea for a box please share.
IMG_20220515_161452.jpg
 

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cyberbandit1998 said:
Here is my SCC setup to charge right off the panels. Modified the ezgo connector and it plugs in no problems. Lock out does not work currently, can any body tell me if I take the green wire hanging down and connect it to the positive on the SCC is it will fix the lock out functionality? The green wire is connect to the 3 pin that is on the top by itself. I got my cells from signature solar, however they seem to be a bit wider. Currently it's a little over 14in wide with nothing on the sides on. This is a picture of the rough layout of the box. I am try to use 1/4 in plywood on top and bottom. I will add on front and back for regitity. The signature solar cells are nice, becuase they are already in a balanced 24v configuration, 1 bar to join the 2 packs together and you got a easy blanced 48v battery. They have welded terminals with threaded holes in the bus bars for easy balance leady placement. If anyone has a better idea for a box please share.
View attachment 94767
Click to expand...
I had a similar problem with my Delta-q charger - which I think is similar to the ezgo. In my plug from the charger there are 3 pins, white (+ve), black (-ve) and green. You won't get output from the charger if there is no connection to green (which I think is from the lockout sensor). I put a 10 kOhm resistor from black to green and that turns on the charger output.
 
So im new to this form and would like to try converting my mower. Not so sure about building a pack but im back and forth between what battery to buy. Most are sold out however im looking for ease of install vs price.
couple questions i think this group could help me with is…
If i run the 4 12v in series will i need a special charger?
blue wire over voltage protection must be overridden?
Stock batteries say they have t11 terminals will that really matter or will most bolt in?
Is there a consensus on best bang for buck on a charger?
i would like it to charge with the stock charger plug so am i limited to 13a due to wire gauge?
Anything else i should get to finish the conversion?
 

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zamondo said:
I’m about to try out the “simple way” I have no time to build my own battery. My mower is brand new, it’s actually still at HD, I’m going to pick it up tomorrow. I’m going to order 4 of these battery's, the total with tax is about $1600. https://amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery
They do free shipping and have a 3% off coupon. The battery has a built in BMS and they say they can run 4 in serial. Also the dimensions are the same as the OEM so it should be a drop in solution unless i’m missing something. The FAQs say it has a max 5120w load power. That would be the only thing i’m not sure of, what the mowers max load is, but I’m guessing it will be enough. I’m going to get a new charger and voltage meter as mentioned I should previously. Hopefully that is all I will need. I’m not sure how to wire up the charger snd meter yet, but I’m guessing it’ll be pretty straightforward. I’ll document the process and post here. I have to get the batteries shipped to a California address then shipped by boat to Hawaii so it may take about 3-4 weeks before I can do the swap.
Click to expand...
Hi there, did you end up going with this route and if so, can you please share your experience and any tips or URLs of components you used? I got a RM480E for 800 bucks and 29 hours on it. I've mowed 2 times with it so far, but this morning when I was mowing I noticed that the blades would dis-engage and then start again, repeat. Was wondering if the batteries are starting to fault out. Shows that it's charged.
 
dochoot said:
I dropped in a 48v 100AH LiFePo4 battery from ampere time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09BR4JZTT?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
It fits fine in the tray and has it’s own BMS built in. I built some spacers to keep it secure in the tray form leftover plastic siding I had.

Is there any reason I can’t just use the ryobi charger that came with the mower? 48v, 13a.

I did order this charger just in case but would rather not rewire the plug if I don’t need to.


I did buy the new display module but haven’t tackled that yet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B088RG27LS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Trying to keep it as simple as possible. Anything else I should be aware of so I don’t burn my barn down?
Click to expand...
Hi there dochoot, curious to know how your experience has been and if you wouldn't mind sharing some tips?
 
ryobilifepo4user said:
and


Thank you so much for giving some direction @rio and @bobbie_ohio . It gave me the encouragement to start testing things. The good news is that I don't seem to have damaged anything. But, I have a strange and interesting battery issue. Here is what I'm seeing happen. Keep in mind that all I have at the moment is an analog meter, so measurements are approximate.

1. Individually, fully charge all 4 batteries using the Noco Genius 5
2. All batteries testing correctly at around 12v.
3. System tests at about 51v.
4. Install batteries and reconnect the entire system.
5. Turn key to 'On'
6. Expected "clunk" occurs. System appears to power on for just a fraction of a second.
7. System powers off in a fraction of a second.
8. No power to mower. Will not go.
9. Pull main power connector and test voltage.
10. Voltage reads around 28 or, sometimes, around 40
11. Pull out battery bank.
12. Either one, or sometimes two, of the batteries will test at only around 2.5v.
13. Attach Noco Genius 5 to each 2.5v battery for just 5 seconds. Remove charger.
14. Test voltage on battery: about 12v.
15. All batteries now testing at around 12v and system at about 51v.
16. Reinstall battery bank and hook up, and turn key to "On".
17. "Clunk" occurs.
18. If gauge does not light up, you're back to Step 7 above.
19. If gauge lights up, mower will run like a champ. Go mow the lawn, then shut the mower off.
20. But the next time you start the mower, you could be back to Step 5 above.

I recorded a video of this phenomenon that can be viewed here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nv4zu7LXagvquqbaj1GuKbozb-hrs0Sz/view

If the video doesn't play for you in-browser, you can download it using the small down-arrow in the upper-right corner.

What is going on with these batteries? Are they defective? Or, is this some kind of overload protection that happens when the system first starts/clunks? Why would it drop a fully-charged battery to 2.5 volts, only to be restored to 12v at the touch of a charger?

Thank you again for the help. I hope this helps others that might have such a strange issue.
Click to expand...
Did you top balance your new cells to full?
 
doeweb said:
Hi there dochoot, curious to know how your experience has been and if you wouldn't mind sharing some tips?
Click to expand...
Wow! That's a great deal! Sounds like you definitely have some weak batteries. Most of the drop-in replacements will work with little effort. Just make sure they are compatible with a 4S configuration (4 batteries in SERIES). However, you can probably build your own for half the amount of buying ready-built. Obviously, this take a lot more time to build and also may take a lot longer to ship. So, it's purely a buyers choice. Good luck!
 
I'd love to make this conversion. Any assistance on how to get started would be greatly appreciated!
 
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