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Daly 100A BMS won't connect

hobbes1069

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Jan 5, 2020
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So I purchased 4 new 100AH CALB cells and they seem to be working great so far. I hooked them up temporarily to my Daly 100A BMS. Unfortunately the BMS leads were too short to optimally place the BMS in my system so I purchased some 22ga silicone insulated wire to extend the BMS leads.

After crimping on the butt splice connectors to extend the BMS leads it will not "turn on". While the BMS connector harness is too small for me to probe it directly I have slid the probe of my mutl-meter into the back side of the butt splice connectors on the BMS side, which all tests fine (continuity or voltage). If I had a bad crimp it should show up here, but when I connect to the BMS it does not turn on.

I've traced the BMS leads to make sure they are connected to the correct cell terminals multiple times and even when I tested the voltage on the back side of the butt splice connectors the voltage stepped up correctly (approx 3.32V per cell).

I'm completely stumped and frustrated at this point...

Any ideas?
 
So I purchased 4 new 100AH CALB cells and they seem to be working great so far. I hooked them up temporarily to my Daly 100A BMS. Unfortunately the BMS leads were too short to optimally place the BMS in my system so I purchased some 22ga silicone insulated wire to extend the BMS leads.

After crimping on the butt splice connectors to extend the BMS leads it will not "turn on". While the BMS connector harness is too small for me to probe it directly I have slid the probe of my mutl-meter into the back side of the butt splice connectors on the BMS side, which all tests fine (continuity or voltage). If I had a bad crimp it should show up here, but when I connect to the BMS it does not turn on.

I've traced the BMS leads to make sure they are connected to the correct cell terminals multiple times and even when I tested the voltage on the back side of the butt splice connectors the voltage stepped up correctly (approx 3.32V per cell).

I'm completely stumped and frustrated at this point...

Any ideas?
I can't imagine the device being so sensitive to impedence, but maybe wire lengths matter and you added too much wire length?
Did you try the BMS with the original wires?
 
Can you post a picture of your setup? Did you place the blue cable on cell 1 negative? Did you touch the black to the cell one negative?

Yup... That was the "fix". The instruction that came with the BMS did not mention shorting B- and P- to "wake it up" but some googling I did after I posted here mentioned it. Strange though I didn't have to do that the first time I connected it...

Thanks,
Richard
 
Ok what do you do when the BMS has shut off because it reached min voltage on the battery? I have been disconnecting the bms load, removing the cables from the different cells and hooking back up, Is there an easier way?
 
On a Daly I think you need to get the cell voltage to 2.7V per cell to release the disconnect. In this case you would temporarily bypass the BMS to get the cell voltage high enough. Read up on this though, since I have never done this.
 
As long as you're using a LiFePO4 charger you should be fine as it would never lower the voltage and should not overcharge either.
 
I am using an Outback solar charge controller with the limits set and I don't use the BMS to regulate the charging. ( have been doing this for over 3 years with a tesla battery ) But the BMS did not kick back on even after cell voltage came back to 4.0 I only charge to 4.1 V per cell.
 
I will try to find the specs for my 10s Daly BMS... Will post, did not come with any manual.
 
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