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Signature Solar EG4 6.5K Off-Grid Inverter | 6500EX-48

I'm exploring adding a pair (or 4) 6500's to act as a whole home UPS, along with about 20 kW worth of PV strings as well.

But first a little background since I'm new here. I installed solar arrays on my property in back the fall of 2016 and have a Net Metering agreement with my local POCO. They credit me back 1:1 for every kWh I push back into the grid during daily peaks. So during the summer months, I build up a bank of kWh on my account that I then consume during the winter months. However, lately I have been consuming more than I use all year due to running crypto miners.

I have just shy of 60 kW worth of PV arrays currently. All the solar arrays are located around my shop building that is about 200 feet from the main house. That's where all my SMA inverters are located as seen here:

IMG_E1848.JPG

They are all connected to a 225A sub-panel, which is turn goes to a 400A junction box, that then runs up to the house where there's a 400A fused disconnect. Here's an an overview of my current layout:

power diagram.jpg

So lots of un-bonded subpanels. The only place where N and G are bonded, is in my 400A disconnect switch as shown below. The house 200A sub-panels are located immediately behind the transfer switch. You can see the wires going through the wall:

House400A-9-26-02.JPG

Next to the disconnect switch is a 400A automatic transfer switch which has a 20 kWh Kubota diesel generator for backup power when the grid is down:

kubotainpowerroom-10.JPG

So what I would like to do, is to incorporate a pair of 6500's into the mix with a battery bank, to basically run the house on batteries and have the grid/existing solar system keep the batteries topped off.

Looking back 30 days, the peak consumption for the house feeder got close to around 8,000 watts on each "leg" as seen here on 8/7/22:

House Feeder 8_7_2022.jpg

Looking at my overall usage over the last month, this is what I got: (green bars for the house)

monthly site consumption 9_4_22.jpg

So around 100 kWh a day on average for the house.

And my grid tied solar production over the same period:

monthly solar production 9_4_22.jpg

So adding an off-grid system to the house with around 20 kW capacity should get me close to zero net usage from the grid. The EG4's not being grid tied actually works out great for me since I have maxed out the 50 KVA transformer going to the grid. So I would not have been able to add more grid tied inverters even it I wanted to.

So now my questions:

1. Can the inverters and battery banks be located in my non-insulated "power room"? It does have windows on it now, but there is a large 10x7 or so opening to the elements. I live in central Virginia, so we do see frost in the winter and 90+ degree temps in the summer. If I'm able to eliminate the backup generator, I could completely enclose and insulate that room. I realize I can't charge LiFePO4 batteries below freezing, but the BMS would prevent that right? Plus, I'm sure I could some of those small heating pads to keep them at the proper temp.

2. Give my consumption shown above, would a pair of 6500's be able to handle my house? I have a 5 ton Trane XL20i dual stage A/C with some mini splits in other parts of the house. I also have servers running in the house 24/7 (maybe 1000 watts between them), as well as a pool pump (about 500 watts) and various smaller water pumps (fish pond and duck pond). Stove is fortunately gas, but dryer is electric. Also have well pump that I think is about 1hp. Fortunately, the heavy hitters (5hp air compressor, auto lift and welder) all down in the shop, so they won't be behind the 6500s. Given that I have peaks of 8000 watts, I unfortunately think I would need to go with 4 6500's...

3. I average about 4 power outages each year, lasting anywhere from a few hours, to several days. If I had a power outage of several days, I assume I could fire up a generator to top of the battery bank as needed? Or if I do install solar panels for the 6500's, those would serve the same purpose, except I might still need to run the generator at night and/or if it rains/snows or is very cloudy.

4. Is there a limit in the size of battery bank that can be connected to the 6500? The manual states charging capacity at 153A and recommended battery capacity as 250AH. Is that a hard limit, or could I go with a 1000AH bank with a pair of 6500s?

5. If I do a DIY bank of individual cells, is the 6500 compatible with, say the Overkill Solar 48V 16S 100A BMS?

6. Since I'll likely need to go with 4x 6500s, does this look like a reasonable diagram?

power diagram new.jpg


This way, during an extended power outage, the generator could kick on when the batteries needs to be topped off. I assume the 6500 has a closure relay to call for generator power?



Thanks!
 
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Judging from the systems you have cost probably is not an issue here. Maybe look into something with a bit more quality such as a couple of 15K SolArcs
 
Yes, this inverter works with Solar assistant via the USB cable. I only have 1 inverter and 1 eg4 battery. I prefer the inverter in USE mode with the console cable from the battery to the raspberry pi. after hooking up the console cable to the battery it seems that it pulls more data etc ( straight from the BMS vs reading what the inverter thinks) . I think this is the ideal setup assuming Solar Assistant plays well with multiple inverters but i have not tried that yet. Once you turn on the MQTT discover i think Home Assistant finds 32 metrics or so.

I can screenshot every page in solar assistant and post here if there's interest in that. Solar assistant is very easy to install and configure. If the raspberry pi has a connection to the internet you are able to monitor remotely. I don't like that you cant log into the raspberry pi, the only access you get is the web interface for updates and setting up Wifi. I guess thats understandable to make it harder to pirate the software or prevent people from breaking the software etc.

Overall Solar assistant to inverter via usb and solar assistant console cable to battery i think is the ideal setup ( assuming it handles multiple inverters/batteries). I guess the fault 61 was a blessing in disguise as i probably wouldn't have explored solar assistant otherwise. I have a Power over ethernet adapter to power the raspberry pi (cat 5) so it makes it simple to mount/run cable. There's 48v dc to USB to power the pi from the bus bars as well. Depending on which pi you have you could use wireless or hardwired ethernet. I prefer to hard wire anything i can.

My goal with Solar Assistant is to charge my EV with excess solar once the solar battery is full. I dont drive a ton but i've managed to only charge via solar for the last month or so. With Home assistant i should be able to send power to my car and adjust the charging amps to match solar output or rather adjust the amps as to not draw from the battery when the sun is out. once you get the data into home assistant the sky is the limit. i plan to setup voice announcements with solar generation, battery percentage etc etc.

View attachment 104343

Home Assistant output.


View attachment 104344
View attachment 104345

More solar assistant screenshots

View attachment 104346

View attachment 104348
Hi, great images. How do you connect the solar assistant unit to the inverter? I see you have it connected to the battery, not sure of pros and cons there or maybe thats the only way to connect them? Can you elaborate one how it can be c connected to the inverter? I do have an eg4ll battery coming so i might just do it your way anyways. I can't find any combo of configs that work with a USB A-B cable.
 
I’m having problems with stray voltage on the 6500EX-48 case when both PV1 input is on and the inverter are on. I have setup as @FilterGuy has documented as configuration #1, off grid, no grid assist. I turn the inverter off with PV1 Input On, the voltage goes away. If I turn PV1 input off with the Inverter On, the voltage goes away. What could I be doing wrong to cause this? Thanks in advance.
 
Hi, great images. How do you connect the solar assistant unit to the inverter? I see you have it connected to the battery, not sure of pros and cons there or maybe thats the only way to connect them? Can you elaborate one how it can be c connected to the inverter? I do have an eg4ll battery coming so i might just do it your way anyways. I can't find any combo of configs that work with a USB A-B cable.
I finally was able to get it connected. Nothing else seems to work other than a usb to 9 pin serial connected to the rj45 to 9 pin for the wifi dongle. I tried direct usb to rs232 rj45 cables and it doesn't work. and with the 3000 watt unit, usb does not work at all, its for rs485 i guess.
 
I’m having problems with stray voltage on the 6500EX-48 case when both PV1 input is on and the inverter are on. I have setup as @FilterGuy has documented as configuration #1, off grid, no grid assist. I turn the inverter off with PV1 Input On, the voltage goes away. If I turn PV1 input off with the Inverter On, the voltage goes away. What could I be doing wrong to cause this? Thanks in advance.
Just to be clear, Is this the setup you followed?

1663541825167.png
I’m having problems with stray voltage on the 6500EX-48 case when both PV1 input is on and the inverter are on.
What are you measuring? Are you measuring between ground and case?
 
Just to be clear, Is this the setup you followed?

View attachment 112443

What are you measuring? Are you measuring between ground and case?
Yes that’s the exact configuration I have, I’m using the NCV function on the multimeter to measure the voltage on the case. With the PV Input switched off, the inverter On and the panels disconnected, I measure ~31 volts and 4 amps on the PV side of the switch between the POS and NEG leads.
 
I’m using the NCV function on the multimeter to measure the voltage on the case.
could you use a regular voltmeter function to measure between case and ground? I think you might find there is no voltage to worry about.
 
could you use a regular voltmeter function to measure between case and ground? I think you might find there is no voltage to worry about.
Thanks for the quick reply. Initially I received a mild shock from the case with 2 panels connected and with 3 (which was enough to power up the unit) the shock when turning the inverter on was more pronounced. I then used the NCV function which beeps similar to what I get when in contact with the AC breakers. I’ll measure the voltage between the case and the ground wire running into the ground when I setup the panels again (I had the panels setup on the ground temporarily to test before I install on the roof).
 
Any updates?
I’ll lay out the 3 panels again on the ground today and measure the voltage between the case and the ground wire connected to the ground rod.

This is the PV circuit breaker I have installed: https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Ci...663772941&sprefix=PV+circ,aps,144&sr=8-4&th=1.

I purchased this PV disconnect switch from SS but have not installed yet: https://signaturesolar.com/dc-disconnect-rooftop-isolator-switch-by-imo/

Is it recommended to use both of these? Initially I plan to install ’8’ 370 watt panels connected in series connected to the PV1 input (332 VOC @ 11.3 amps). A few months later, I will install the remaining 8 panels in series to the PV2 input. Thanks all.
 
could you use a regular voltmeter function to measure between case and ground? I think you might find there is no voltage to worry about.
Ok, I set the 3 panels out again in the sun in the same configuration as before, producing up to 240 watts, I turned on the PV circuit breaker, measured the AC voltage between the inverter case and the ground wire @ 0 volts. I then turned the Inverter On, the voltage went up slightly to .75 volts. Touching the case I do not feel any sensation at all. It could be what I was experiencing before was a surface charge on the case that quickly dissipates. I’ll keep testing as I build out my PV system. Would appreciate any comments on the PV circuit breaker and disconnect as I mentioned in the previous post.
 
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I’ll lay out the 3 panels again on the ground today and measure the voltage between the case and the ground wire connected to the ground rod.

This is the PV circuit breaker I have installed: https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Circuit-Isolator-Magnetic-Disconnect/dp/B0983ZHK69/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1VRNPJKG6HL9A&keywords=pv+circuit+breaker&qid=1663772941&sprefix=PV+circ,aps,144&sr=8-4&th=1.

I purchased this PV disconnect switch from SS but have not installed yet: https://signaturesolar.com/dc-disconnect-rooftop-isolator-switch-by-imo/

Is it recommended to use both of these? Initially I plan to install ’8’ 370 watt panels connected in series connected to the PV1 input (332 VOC @ 11.3 amps). A few months later, I will install the remaining 8 panels in series to the PV2 input. Thanks all.
How is that circuit breaker wired into the system? It is a polarized breaker and must never be used in places that might have reverse currents. If it is between the whole array and the charge controller, it may be OK. If it is used on multiple parallel strings of panels, it could be a fire hazard.

 
How is that circuit breaker wired into the system? It is a polarized breaker and must never be used in places that might have reverse currents. If it is between the whole array and the charge controller, it may be OK. If it is used on multiple parallel strings of panels, it could be a fire hazard.

The breaker is installed between the array and approx. 6” away from the PV input. My initial plan is to install 8 panels wired in series with 332 VOC and 11.3 amps. If shading is too much of a problem on one side of my roof, I might consider running 2 parallel strings (4x2 = 165 VOC, 22.6 amps) connected to this breaker. PV wire gauge would be increased from 12 gauge to 10 gauge in the case of 2 parallel strings.

Thanks for the document, it sounds like OCPD is not required by NEC for 2 strings or less, although I assume it can’t hurt unless as you mention there is reverse current. I also read that the disconnect switch is preferred over the breaker for disconnecting the array. I will plan on using the IMO disconnect by itself rather than using both.
 
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I finally was able to get it connected. Nothing else seems to work other than a usb to 9 pin serial connected to the rj45 to 9 pin for the wifi dongle. I tried direct usb to rs232 rj45 cables and it doesn't work. and with the 3000 watt unit, usb does not work at all, its for rs485 i guess.
Hi Micah,

Do you have a picture of your setup and the parts that you used? I've had the same struggle.

I can connect micro-usb cables to the inverters and Solar Assistant is solidly connected. Alternatively, I can connect the USB to the battery bank, and that stays solidly connected.

As soon as I connect to both the battery bank and the 6500 inverter remotes, it works for a short period of time, and then the battery connection fails with the following:

1664222765783.png

Pierre suggested buying this:


But if you've already tried that, then I don't want to burn $50 for no reason.

Thanks,
Eric
 
Hi All, hoping for some guidance. Read through most of this thread, watched all of wills videos, and am following his instructions/diagrams as well as the grounding/bonding one from Filterguy(my setup is closest to slide 2) and am still a bit puzzled.

I have (1) 6500EX + 15kwh Eg4 48v server racked batteries + 4000w array. Completely off-grid.

I am planning to use my generator (I believe floating ground) as a backup to charge the batteries through the inverter. I also would like to have the option to wire/plug the generator directly to the panel (in case the inverter stops working). Generator: Predator 3500 inverter/generator.

Questions:
1. Do I need a transfer switch or can I just wire a receptacle for my generator into the main panel for if/when I should ever need to bypass the inverter?
2. How do I ground? from what I have gathered I need to ground the main panel with a "system bonding jumper" to a grounding rod(or chassis?) but a professional should do this piece (not very clear on that).
3. Does the generator need a Neutral Ground Bonding Plug?
4. For the "NG Bond Disabled" in the diagram (slide 2) is this automatic, a software setting, or a manual configuration?

Thank you so much!!!
 
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Hi All, hoping for some guidance. Read through most of this thread, watched all of wills videos, and am following his instructions/diagrams as well as the grounding/bonding one from Filterguy(my setup is closest to slide 2) and am still a bit puzzled.

I have (1) 6500EX + 15kwh Eg4 48v server racked batteries + 4000w array. Completely off-grid.

I am planning to use my generator (I believe floating ground) as a backup to charge the batteries through the inverter. I also would like to have the option to wire/plug the generator directly to the panel (in case the inverter stops working). Generator: Predator 3500 inverter/generator.

Questions:
1. Do I need a transfer switch or can I just wire a receptacle for my generator into the main panel for if/when I should ever need to bypass the inverter?
2. How do I ground? from what I have gathered I need to ground the main panel with a "system bonding jumper" to a grounding rod(or chassis?) but a professional should do this piece (not very clear on that).
3. Does the generator need a Neutral Ground Bonding Plug?
4. For the "NG Bond Disabled" in the diagram (slide 2) is this automatic, a software setting, or a manual configuration?

Thank you so much!!!
How did you end up wiring the generator inputs?
 
Hi All, hoping for some guidance. Read through most of this thread, watched all of wills videos, and am following his instructions/diagrams as well as the grounding/bonding one from Filterguy(my setup is closest to slide 2) and am still a bit puzzled.

I have (1) 6500EX + 15kwh Eg4 48v server racked batteries + 4000w array. Completely off-grid.

I am planning to use my generator (I believe floating ground) as a backup to charge the batteries through the inverter. I also would like to have the option to wire/plug the generator directly to the panel (in case the inverter stops working). Generator: Predator 3500 inverter/generator.

Questions:
1. Do I need a transfer switch or can I just wire a receptacle for my generator into the main panel for if/when I should ever need to bypass the inverter?
2. How do I ground? from what I have gathered I need to ground the main panel with a "system bonding jumper" to a grounding rod(or chassis?) but a professional should do this piece (not very clear on that).
3. Does the generator need a Neutral Ground Bonding Plug?
4. For the "NG Bond Disabled" in the diagram (slide 2) is this automatic, a software setting, or a manual configuration?

Thank you so much!!!
I called Signature Solar with related questions and was told point blank to not hook up a low-cost, portable generator through any inverter. Unless you have proof your generator produces <5% Total Harmonic Distortion (THD), you risk frying sensitive electronics like the inverter (and if you're bypassing the inverter to power your house directly, you also risk damage to plugged-in devices in your home, unless you have 'line conditioners' between the generator & electronics).

SS strongly recommended using a low-cost generator to power a bank of battery chargers that are wired to your batteries' busbars. Then, run your house off charged batteries.

Both line conditioners & battery chargers have transformers in them that isolate the generator's noisy voltage from downstream appliances/batteries. An EG4 18amp battery charger will draw ~11 amps from your generator, so unless you upgrade your generator a bunch & buy a handful of EG4 DC chargers, you're going to be waiting a long time to charge up depleted batteries...
-or-
Buy some Tripp line conditioners, plug your smart toaster oven in a big one & all your media electronics in a smaller one & backfeed your panel with your generator. You only need a transfer switch if you (or others) are prone to spacing out about shutting off the inverter's circuit breaker before energizing the panel from the generator. Usually those fail-safe items are associated with grid-tied setups, to protect line workers.

As for grounding, if your main panel (that either the inverter or your generator feeds electricity into) is where the system's neutrals are bonded to the Earth ground, then that is adequate (at least according to my Generac portable generator's manual... They say a grounding rod is only required when the generator is operating in a standalone situation, like at a construction site.)

I HTH...
 
True, the box store Chinese generators have dirty power, Westinghouse, Duromax, Champion, etc. Only use a quality Winco or any of the few using a Mecc-Alte generator head or an inverter generator. Most inverter models are <3% THD by nature of design.
 
Thanks for your input. If inverters are <3% typically, how can it be that page 7 of the 6500EX's manual not only lists that exact spec but it also (at the bottom of the page) cites <10% for non-linear loads (like PCs, TVs & other electronics). And, to top it off, Signature Solar says they both are valid. How can this be? (Not that I expect you to justify SS's manual, but it seems you know a lot about inverters and THD.). Thanks!
 
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Their manuals are translated as best they can I suppose, a lot of discovery is trial and error. This is A go-to explanation of generator characteristics
Box store equipment is usually >25% THD or more. Your new Trane variable furnace boards won't last long with that power.
"In a traditional generator, the power produced by the alternator is fed (more or less) straight to the control panel. It may go through a voltage regulator or other protective devices, but the power is not necessarily “cleaned up”. Therefore, the power produced by a traditional generator has a higher total harmonic distortion (THD) than the power produced by an inverter generator. THD is a measure of how clean the power is – more on that in a moment.

An inverter generator works differently. The alternating current (AC) power produced by the alternator is sent to a rectifier, which is a device that converts the AC power to direct current (DC). This DC power is then inverted back to AC power by the computer inside the generator before it is sent to the control panel. This is where the name “inverter” comes from. Because the power to the control panel is controlled by the computer, inverter generators offer much lower THD than standard generators. THD is an important consideration when powering sensitive devices, like smartphones, tablets, computers, and televisions. These devices expect “clean” power (power that has low THD, like the wall power in your home), and can be damaged if they receive high-THD power. All WEN inverter generators use pure-sine-wave inverters, and as such, limit THD to under 1% in most cases. Traditional generators can produce THD as high as 25% in some cases." There are a few exceptions to this rule, 12K Westinghouse and the cleaner generators will actually include the THD in the specs. People buying these have no clue what it is anyway..
 
Anyone having or seen this type of problem: 120V, 2P1 and 2P2 180. @BenFromSignatureSolar

With the inverter AC input breaker off, which is the garage subpanel, the reading on neutral and ground busbars is 0.0A. When the breaker is turn on, with the inverters in standby and charge with solar only, the reading fluctuates between 0.014 - 0.023A. After changing the inverters to charge with solar AND utility the reading increases and fluctuates between 0.100 - 0.080A.

When the AC input breaker is on a low hum and soft arcing(?) sound can be heard in the MAIN panel. Cannot pinpoint but does sound the loudest coming from underneath the left side of the panel. The panel is mounted on plywood and the 100A breaker for the subpanel in the garage is on the right side.

It has done this since the first day (09NOV22) with both inverter N-G bond screws in, only one N-G screw in and with both out; same variation with and without common neutral. Other than this everything seems to work fine, but because of it I leave the AC input off.

This is the configuration and a picture of the reading:

1654122382016 MTS.png



.023A AC Input breaker on.jpg
0.0 reading.jpg
 
I had this issue in a panel one time. It was one of the 20A plug-in breakers that had arced long enough to corrode the metal, so it wasn't making good contact. It got louder when loaded, and stopped when I pushed on it. As for the 100mA of leakage current, there is capacitance between L-G, so it's probably the EMI filter. Is the leakage still there when you put the screws back in the inverters?
 
I had this issue in a panel one time. It was one of the 20A plug-in breakers that had arced long enough to corrode the metal, so it wasn't making good contact. It got louder when loaded, and stopped when I pushed on it. As for the 100mA of leakage current, there is capacitance between L-G, so it's probably the EMI filter. Is the leakage still there when you put the screws back in the inverters?
Thanks for responding. It was doing this "before" I took them out; I have also pushed and wiggled all other breakers, without results. Could the load on any other breaker change by flipping on the inverter AC input breaker? I was supposing my next step would be to pull out each breaker and check for evidence of connection issues.

So, this amount of EMI filter leakage is minimal and nothing to be concerned about?
 

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