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Ground mount - 410' run. Do I need a junction box ?

rcrracer said:
More expensive alternative is to use rigid couplings on ends of 90s, and screw male adapters into those. (never tried that, but might work.)
Click to expand...
It's a weaker connection, with a high risk of breaking. I don't do it unless it's going to be encased in concrete. (I've had to repair a few)
 
If I did it, you can do it.
One pull.
Minimize turns.
Braid your pulling head.
Use lube.
Have a winch/vehicle pulling plan, any turns and it gets tough.
Make sure there are no sharp edges inside, I scuffed the nylon in places but the main insulation is intact.
 
If you only apply glue to male not female, and back slightly from end, that should prevent glue from getting inside where wires are. Just don't pull apart and push back together again.

I have stuffed conduit all the way to what fill table shows this way, but then couldn't pull it out (by hand) later (several 8 awg in 3/4"). Part of the problem was that 3 wires across was too large for the conduit, would jam pulled into corners.. Some sections that came apart at the glue joint I was able to slide off individually. I go for oversize conduit now. I also found the grey formed conduit sections (enlarged female at one end) fit too loosely to make strong joints, unlike separate couplings and unlike water pipe. I was able to manually do three 2/0 plus ground in 2" without difficulty; just hold wire bent while slipping elbows over.

I do have a run I'm planning to pull, with up to four 90 degree PVC bends in a 100' run. 250' total, so I'm going to have to wrap the wire itself around tugger to pull out enough at the intermediate "T" connections. Three 2 awg plus ground, in 2" conduit, so very loose. But stiffness of the wire makes it hard to pull manually around bends.
 
Mike 134 said:
I want to see the video of him running back and forth over 200' of wire (presuming he starts in the middle and goes both ways)

just an FYI real electricians do it all the time pulling that distance. Rigid conduit is used at the elbows, so you don't burn though the PVC.
Click to expand...
How do you use rigid and PVC conduit together ??? Is it that simple ?
 
I just pulled new wire to my array. 350 feet. I have two pull boxes along the way. Oh I would suggest #8 for that distance. We pulled 6 #8 in 1 1/2” conduit hand pulled no problem. Better to do it once
 
I've wondered about grounding vs. shock hazard of isolated metal conduit in middle of PVC, and read some comments today.
They suggested that it is acceptable if the metal conduit is buried or encased in concrete. Not sure what exactly code says.
 
Hedges said:
I've wondered about grounding vs. shock hazard of isolated metal conduit in middle of PVC, and read some comments today.
They suggested that it is acceptable if the metal conduit is buried or encased in concrete. Not sure what exactly code says.
Click to expand...
If it's not in physical contact with the concrete, it doesn't lesson the Hazzard. Unless their goal is to make it impossible for people to come in contact with it.
 
timselectric said:
If it's not in physical contact with the concrete, it doesn't lesson the Hazzard. Unless their goal is to make it impossible for people to come in contact with it.
Click to expand...
Hedges said:
I've wondered about grounding vs. shock hazard of isolated metal conduit in middle of PVC, and read some comments today.
They suggested that it is acceptable if the metal conduit is buried or encased in concrete. Not sure what exactly code says.
Click to expand...
I misunderstood the context.
I see your point, now.
Hmm, I never really thought about it.
 
Now that I have thought about it. I see two options.
1. If it's at the end of the run, extend the rigid up to the box and bond it.
2. Run a #6 in the trench along side of the conduit and bond each 90. And connect it to the nearest accessible grounding conductor.
 
I'm learning, with nec its alway a, reread, anyway. I guess I never had more than two 90° But, I don't do conduit everyday. So many good points. I agree #6 along side, if no nec conflicts.
 
Laugh if you like (and please do) but, 27 years goes faster than you think. Nobody likes doing a crappy job twice..... so, don't do it crappy.
I may not have done mine right, but being there are differing ways to achieve a goal. I suggest to... look, listen, research, and reason, before action.
Ok, I'm done!
 
Gaining knowledge is never a bad thing.
Unless you find out that your wife has been cheating on you. You might not want to know about that. lol
 
Hedges said:
I do have a run I'm planning to pull, with up to four 90 degree PVC bends in a 100' run. 250' total, so I'm going to have to wrap the wire itself around tugger to pull out enough at the intermediate "T" connections. Three 2 awg plus ground, in 2" conduit, so very loose. But stiffness of the wire makes it hard to pull manually around bends.
Click to expand...

I'm forgetful. This pull will be in 2" rigid.
The PVC I just use for data, sprinkler, etc. I made the mistake of not reaming factory cut ends, and they snagged jacket.

Pull calculator said no lube needed for the pull I'm doing, but I'll at least put it on the lumpy end.
I'm thinking of getting these, single-use crimp on pulling grips:

www.lockesupply.com

iTool CR137 Crimp

Products | T9817, iToolco, iTool CR137 Crimp: Electrical, Fittings & Connectors, Flexible Cord & Cable Fittings
www.lockesupply.com www.lockesupply.com
 
I'd use lube, seriously! It use to be cheap, of course I don't know now.
I've never used any attachment to help the pull. We always used a loop and braid technique. Theory is, if you can't pull the wire without damaging it, you should not pull. You are going to donate the 12 inches on pull end, of course. And there is the expence.
 
It's a good idea to pull a extra string or I perfer a trace. This will make the underground wire easy to find later. And, trust me someone WILL want to find it. Anyway, the extra pull tape or whatever you use, is if you loose the wire anytime during the pull, your not lost. And I know there are ways to get it back. Just the way we did it.
I should check nec, I think trace wires are required on some installations, if you care (I don't)
 
Hedges said:
I'm forgetful. This pull will be in 2" rigid.
The PVC I just use for data, sprinkler, etc. I made the mistake of not reaming factory cut ends, and they snagged jacket.

Pull calculator said no lube needed for the pull I'm doing, but I'll at least put it on the lumpy end.
I'm thinking of getting these, single-use crimp on pulling grips:

www.lockesupply.com

iTool CR137 Crimp

Products | T9817, iToolco, iTool CR137 Crimp: Electrical, Fittings & Connectors, Flexible Cord & Cable Fittings
www.lockesupply.com www.lockesupply.com
Click to expand...
We always use these for large pulls.
Reusable
www.greenlee.com

Pulling Grip Set with Clevis | Greenlee

Find product features and specification information for the Greenlee Pulling Grip Set w/ Clevis and other quality pulling accessories. Shop now!
www.greenlee.com www.greenlee.com
 
I've done all so far with the wires folded back and taped. But I have one tight nipple to get through, so these grips close to size of insulated wire should help. Multiple lengths, so staggered when I pull all at once.

My existing conduit unfortunately ended up with AC in and AC out of battery inverters passing back and forth through same section of conduit, leaving it harder to get through. Fall back will be to go through a "T" before that, 20' out of my way and back through some new conduit to reach the breaker panel and load-shed relays.

timselectric said:
We always use these for large pulls.
Reusable
www.greenlee.com

Pulling Grip Set with Clevis | Greenlee

Find product features and specification information for the Greenlee Pulling Grip Set w/ Clevis and other quality pulling accessories. Shop now!
www.greenlee.com www.greenlee.com
Click to expand...

Set-screw heads look a bit fatter. I think crimp will be the thinnest profile.

I did get one "Chinese finger trap" grip before, but it never seemed to grip well. Maybe incorrect size.

Here's my new tugger:

1665545239126.png
 
Hedges said:
I did get one "Chinese finger trap" grip before, but it never seemed to grip well. Maybe incorrect size.
Click to expand...
The trick with those is to stretch them as far down the conductors as possible and tape the bottom tightly with electrical tape. Or any elastic tape.
And yes, there are different sizes. But each covers a large range.
 
Late the the post, but this might help someone from the lessons we learned pulling six #10 PV10 wires underground 250' through 2 1/2 inch PVC. The PVC pipe was installed and covered with dirt about a year before we installed the ground mount solar.

1. Use cable lube. One person's job will be to make sure that the cable is always lubed.
$14 for six quarts from HD. Klein Tools Premium Synthetic Wax
2. The bigger the PVC, the easier the pull. Granted, the more the cost!
3. We were able to manually pull the six PV10 wires. One person (strong 21 year old). One person guiding the wire in. One person lubing.
4. Don't forget to add a green ground wire from the solar panels to the inverter (required for SolarEdge). Might also be required for code, but the jury is out on that. See Mike Holt's videos for more info. We forgot to add it, but luckily had a second PVC pipe to pull it through that was put in for the telephone line (that we don't have wired).
5. Always pull in an extra pull string while pulling the wires in. You never know when you might need to pull something else in.
 
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