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New Lux Power LXP-LB-US 12k / GSL-H-12KLV-US with 200A AC Passthrough Current (US Market)

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how many kwh total battery capacity in the final pack ?
Unsure yet. May just use the 280k's alone, which would make it approximately 15kWh. If I add my existing A123's in parallel, the amperage pulled from each pack will be imbalanced, so I will need to run some calculations first.

so is the Luxpower actually feeding the grid once the battery is full ?
Yes.

what's the CT clamps for if it's grid-feeding ? my impression for the CT clamps are to prevent grid-feed
To determine how much power should be exported from battery, to cancel out home load, during peak time when solar is not available. Yes, they prevent grid feed, but they also more accurately determine how much power *needs* to be produced. While it is possible to just set a force discharge at a constant rate during peak time, this is not ideal in many scenarios.
 
The company that I talked with is Atlas Power Solutions. Their prices are terrible and I don't know much more about them. They seem to sell several brands under their own label. They are currently selling an older 12kW model that is made by a different manufacturer. The GSL model should be out in September, and according to the guy I talked with, it should be up on their web site by then. I don't have high hopes for their price on it though. You may be better off contacting GSL directly via alibaba to get more information.
I can’t tell who OEM was because they have rebranded them all to atlas but dang they are asking $9,000 for a 12kw inverter.

That’s like $2,000 more than a Sol-ark..
 
Physical. I only have about 13mm or so of access to the bus bars feeding my main breaker. I cannot get access to my main feed without breaking the tag/getting the power company involved. I found exactly one pair of CT clamps which just barely fit, but only after removing the enclosure and wrapping it in kapton tape. This currently feeds a custom ADC => ESP32 limiter solution, which controls (/controlled) my GTIL2 output.
If you have above feed power coming into your house, did you consider putting the CTs on those wires outside the house at the weather head? The CTs don’t have to be after the breaker
 
If you have above feed power coming into your house, did you consider putting the CTs on those wires outside the house at the weather head? The CTs don’t have to be after the breaker
Unfortunately (for this purpose), all utilities are underground. There are no other points of access. I am also considering running multiple CT's in parallel, feeding several wires from the same phase through each. This could be another option.
 
Ok before I pull the trigger on this Im looking for some info / insights what makes this unit the go to unit for zero export vs say a growatt??? Im liking the efficiency at 99% and the unit seems to be quite well built...
 
Ok before I pull the trigger on this Im looking for some info / insights what makes this unit the go to unit for zero export vs say a growatt??? Im liking the efficiency at 99% and the unit seems to be quite well built...
If you're grid tied (but not exporting), you can have whole house backup through the 200amp passthrough, which for me is worth it. I won't be exporting either.
 
Ok before I pull the trigger on this Im looking for some info / insights what makes this unit the go to unit for zero export vs say a growatt??? Im liking the efficiency at 99% and the unit seems to be quite well built...
From the Luxpower user manual, "Fast zero export":

Feed-in Grid: is for users to set zero export function. If exporting solar power is not allowed, users need to disable “Feed-in Grid” option. If users' utility meter will be tripped with even a little solar export, “Fast zero export” can be enabled thus the export detection and adjustment will take place every 20mS, which will effectively avoid any solar power being exported.

I don't know what the sample rate of a growatt would be, but it seems the luxpower takes zero export into strong consideration.
 
From the Luxpower user manual, "Fast zero export":

Feed-in Grid: is for users to set zero export function. If exporting solar power is not allowed, users need to disable “Feed-in Grid” option. If users' utility meter will be tripped with even a little solar export, “Fast zero export” can be enabled thus the export detection and adjustment will take place every 20mS, which will effectively avoid any solar power being exported.

I don't know what the sample rate of a growatt would be, but it seems the luxpower takes zero export into strong consideration.
This seems like growatts comparable unit if im reading right the battery options are quite limited with the growatt??? But look at Growatts pricing Im missing something because growatt is like 1500 bucks??? Vs gsl 3200???
 
I guess the question im asking is why is the growatt less tha. Half of the GSL???
 
This seems like growatts comparable unit if im reading right the battery options are quite limited with the growatt??? But look at Growatts pricing Im missing something because growatt is like 1500 bucks??? Vs gsl 3200???
I saw a price of $2300 for the Growatt 12kw offgrid
 
I saw a price of $2300 for the Growatt 12kw offgrid
The link shows the 10000 at 1428 plus 196 for the smart meter vs 2989 for GSL and 290 in shipping by boat which is the best I could get from GSL... Im looking at the specs side by side and having trouble seeing where the extra 1200 or 1300 bucks difference is... I do like the GSL but not sure its worth a 30 to 40 day wait and an extra 1200ish dollars... the PV input watts on the growatt look crazy high like 20kw!!!! 98% efficiency with a 5w standby usage??? But the price is approaching the too good to be true level...
 
The link shows the 10000 at 1428 plus 196 for the smart meter vs 2989 for GSL and 290 in shipping by boat which is the best I could get from GSL... Im looking at the specs side by side and having trouble seeing where the extra 1200 or 1300 bucks difference is... I do like the GSL but not sure its worth a 30 to 40 day wait and an extra 1200ish dollars... the PV input watts on the growatt look crazy high like 20kw!!!! 98% efficiency with a 5w standby usage??? But the price is approaching the too good to be true level...
But, it's sort of not apples to apples comparison. If you aren't going to grid tie, then I would go with the Growatt hands down. But, even then you are comparing a 10kw to a 12kw inverter. So, you are losing some power with the growatt. That might not matter for your installation. For mine, I need every bit of extra current I can get. Just not willing to pay for the 15kw Sol-Ark
 
But, it's sort of not apples to apples comparison. If you aren't going to grid tie, then I would go with the Growatt hands down. But, even then you are comparing a 10kw to a 12kw inverter. So, you are losing some power with the growatt. That might not matter for your installation. For mine, I need every bit of extra current I can get. Just not willing to pay for the 15kw Sol-Ark
Im grid tie zero export is what Im looking for...
 
If you're grid tied (but not exporting), you can have whole house backup through the 200amp passthrough, which for me is worth it. I won't be exporting either.
Explain the 200amp pass through back up concept for a newb
 
This seems like growatts comparable unit if im reading right the battery options are quite limited with the growatt??? But look at Growatts pricing Im missing something because growatt is like 1500 bucks??? Vs gsl 3200???
The limited battery options is a major difference. I think now most grid tie Growatts need to use a proprietary high voltage battery. This tremendously adds to the cost. Also the high voltage inverters are cheaper than the low voltage
 
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Explain the 200amp pass through back up concept for a newb
This concept only matters if you care about having power during a grid outage.

Basic wiring: Utility service => Inverter input, Inverter output => Breaker panel
If utility power goes out, your house still has power from the inverter + batteries + PV.

Without the 200A passthrough, if utility power goes out, so does your house. Many inverters still have a "load" port which remains powered during an outage, but if it is less than 200A, you cannot pass through the main service line and need to pick a few circuits for a CL (Critical Load) panel.
 
This concept only matters if you care about having power during a grid outage.

Basic wiring: Utility service => Inverter input, Inverter output => Breaker panel
If utility power goes out, your house still has power from the inverter + batteries + PV.

Without the 200A passthrough, if utility power goes out, so does your house. Many inverters still have a "load" port which remains powered during an outage, but if it is less than 200A, you cannot pass through the main service line and need to pick a few circuits for a CL (Critical Load) panel.

How would that be wired to a home that already has electrical service installed?. Would the Utility service have to be disconnected from the main panel and this inverter installed between the two? My home for example only has onemain breaker in the main panel. To wire this inverter between utility service and that breaker, the electric company would have to disconnect the meter so the wires were not hot during inverter installation.
Or can this inverter simply be wired to a breaker in the main panel. I guess that might be an issue for most because their main panels are usually only 200amp.
 
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How would that be wired to a home that already has electrical service installed?. Would the Utility service have to be disconnected from the main panel and this inverter installed between the two? My home for example only has onemain breaker in the main panel. To wire this inverter between utility service and that breaker, the electric company would have to disconnect the meter so the wires were not hot during inverter installation.
Or can this inverter simply be wired to a breaker in the main panel. I guess that might be an issue for most because their main panels are usually only 200amp.
The utility circuit would go directly into the grid ports of the inverter (with a fused shutoff between the pole and the inverter) and not into the house panel. Then, there would be a connection between the main house panel and the EPS ports on the inverter. This is for full house backup.
The breaker on the main panel would now be the breaker for the EPS load from the inverter.
 
The utility circuit would go directly into the grid ports of the inverter (with a fused shutoff between the pole and the inverter) and not into the house panel. Then, there would be a connection between the main house panel and the EPS ports on the inverter. This is for full house backup.
The breaker on the main panel would now be the breaker for the EPS load from the inverter.
Yes I understand that. So your saying the utility company has to remove the homes meter to disconnect power from the home so this inverter can be installed? That’s if the inverters 200amp pass through is to be utilized?
 
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