New Lux Power LXP-LB-US 12k / GSL-H-12KLV-US with 200A AC Passthrough Current (US Market)

[4SeasonsGuy]

I was told the parallel stacking support is not there yet. Its being worked on and will come as a firmware update. For the foreseeable future I’m thinking the firmware updates will be frequent.

 

[Not Aerosmith]

You also need the inverter password to change several of the settings (not all, but some major ones). And, of course, none of this is documented in the manual, but I already had experiences with GSL, so I knew to ask before I attempted to do my install after China hours and on the Chinese weekend when there would be no support. PM me if you need this info.

All is good information.

On Fronius, I don't remember the password, but I believe it was available online. I just searched online for the GSL password or password reset and was unable to find anything.

I did find Huawei password reset, which was a sequence of switching AC and DC switches on and off simultaneously for flashing green leds and flashing red leds, but it never showed actually entering a password or a default password. It did say once reset, you have 10 minutes to enter a password. I didn't get a warm fuzzy feeling that I knew exactly how to do it. Regardless, it wasn't the same inverter anyway, so not important..

 

[Not Aerosmith]

I was told the parallel stacking support is not there yet. Its being worked on and will come as a firmware update. For the foreseeable future I’m thinking the firmware updates will be frequent.

Sound like these VIP hybrid inverters were simply for show and tell. It shows and displays all the features, but all the features don't actually work. I guess my worse nightmare is coming true about buying a hybrid inverter.

Maybe a work around solution is to AC couple the existing GT inverters and pass-through the new hybrid inverters, so I don't lose my lower electric bills when there is no power outage. In other words, 99% of the time the hybrid inverters are actually doing nothing.

Second is to buy some batteries and simply use the new hybrid inverter as an UPS and hopefully enough features are working that it can let the GT inverters charge the batteries during a power outage. Maybe this is what Ada,amantium was trying to tell me in his post.

 

[Archcpj]

Sound like these VIP hybrid inverters were simply for show and tell. It shows and displays all the features, but all the features don't actually work. I guess my worse nightmare is coming true about buying a hybrid inverter

Are you kidding me

 

[fromport]

I was told the parallel stacking support is not there yet. Its being worked on and will come as a firmware update. For the foreseeable future I’m thinking the firmware updates will be frequent.

"I was told" always starts to ring bells with me.
There is no source, not any kind of foundation with such a statement.

Please tell me where you got it from, preferably in writing.

I can tell you this about an other inverter: megarevo
When I bought it, it had nothing mentioning paralleling multiple inverters in the datasheet.
After using it for a while, I gave feedback to the oem reseller and of the things I said was "i wish it could be paralleled for more power like eg Sol-Ark"
The response was: "Paralleling is now enabled, if you install the attached firmware"
So yes, firmware does fix a lot of things.
In case of the LuxPower/GSL branded hybrid inverter, it already says it can work with up to 10 inverters in parallel in writing in the spec sheet.
So the fact you tell us "you were told" does not make me believe your statement.

 

[fromport]

Sound like these VIP hybrid inverters were simply for show and tell. It shows and displays all the features, but all the features don't actually work. I guess my worse nightmare is coming true about buying a hybrid inverter.

*SIGH*
Just because some one makes a statement "i was told" you believe that persons remark over a spec sheet that says up to 10 unit in parallel possible?
Ask for the proof and then make up your mind.

 

[Hrschk]

Got my LuxPower 12klv-US set up this morning. Working as I hoped. I have it grid tied, but not exporting (although I'm not sure I have this part set up correctly). I put a disconnect switch on the utility wiring between the pole and the inverter so that I can easily run offgrid by just disconnecting the pole utility wire, which is my preference most of the time. but, if I have a bunch of house guests, or need to run a load larger than what the PV/batteries/inverter can handle, I can turn on the grid and it will pick up the slack.

I ran only on the grid last night because we didn't finish the install until almost 9pm and were tired and didn't want to figure out the settings to draw power off of the batteries. It passed through the grid power perfectly and powered everything, including my 36k btu central heating system. This morning got up and the panels started powering up about 8:30. It took us a while to get the settings straight and I'm still not sure I have the "no export to grid" right, so I shut off the grid and now I'm running offgrid successfully. The worst part of the install was battling the humongous, 4/0 aluminum utility grid wires. They don't bend easily. The manual still doesn't have adequate explanations of all of the terms they use, but it is much better than the Megarevo manual. Still, there are some things that I believe are Chinese to American translation idiosyncrasies that I still need to get explanations for from GSL on Monday.

 

[Not Aerosmith]

"I was told" always starts to ring bells with me.
There is no source, not any kind of foundation with such a statement.

*SIGH*
Just because some one makes a statement "i was told" you believe that persons remark over a spec sheet that says up to 10 unit in parallel possible?
Ask for the proof and then make up your mind.

I agree with your statements and appreciate your insight.

I joined DIY Solar Forum last month, because I knew nothing about solar energy systems and I wanted to know enough to buy the right hybrid inverter. From what I know, this hybrid inverter seems like my best choice. However, from what I don't now, might make this hybrid inverter a very bad choice. I'm definitely taking a leap of faith and I'm very worry.

 

[fromport]

However, from what I don't now, might make this hybrid inverter a very bad choice. I'm definitely taking a leap of faith and I'm very worry.

breath, i think you made the right choice.
Until proven otherwise, look at/expect the bright side.

 

[Hrschk]

I agree with your statements and appreciate your insight.

I joined DIY Solar Forum last month, because I knew nothing about solar energy systems and I wanted to know enough to buy the right hybrid inverter. From what I know, this hybrid inverter seems like my best choice. However, from what I don't now, might make this hybrid inverter a very bad choice. I'm definitely taking a leap of faith and I'm very worry.

Look at the new thread about the Sol-Ark 15kw. It will make you feel better that you made the right decision. Also, you have protections. If by some outside chance paralleling doesn't work, you can go through Alibaba and file a case and get your money back.

 

[adamantium]

*SIGH*
Just because some one makes a statement "i was told" you believe that persons remark over a spec sheet that says up to 10 unit in parallel possible?
Ask for the proof and then make up your mind.

I totally agree. Everything in this channel should be substantiated if possible. We can put any gotchas on the front page if it is substantiated. Let's try to keep this thread full of facts and not speculation. The purpose here is to prove out the validity of the inverter and to help others with questions or problems they may be having.

 

[adamantium]

Make sure they test the battery communication before they ship it to you, if it isn't too late. they will send you a video of them doing so. They put my inverter under a simulated load and tested it before it shipped.......and send me a video of them doing so. This way you know you won't receive anything DOA. GSL is very good to work with, but you do have to tell them exactly what you want. They don't do it voluntarily. They will also update your firmware remotely if you ask them. But, you must have a VERY stable internet connection to do so. My Starlink connection wasn't stable enough, so I ended up having to do the firmware upgrade on my 8kw GSL inverter myself.

Can you give us some detail about the load tests they did for you in the video? Did they push it. How long did it run?

 

[Hrschk]

Can you give us some detail about the load tests they did for you in the video? Did they push it. How long did it run?

i don't have any details, I'm sorry. And, in my experience they just do the minimum to make sure everything is working. Not a true load test. But, they have something to simulate a load because they showed me an LED board with a readout of the batteries under a small load. I think it was more to test the battery communication rather than to load test the inverter.

 

[unhandled]

Just pulled the trigger on this today. We’ll
see how that goes! Or not! ;-)

 

[4SeasonsGuy]

an email snippet from GSL sales rep as I was inquiring about the new product. After some discussion and reassurances I still bought one….

Dear John,

To avoid any misunderstand . I need the clarify as below .

Because it is new released .The inverter does not support parallel function .
And the unit come with white and black version .

 

[Not Aerosmith]

Because it is new released .The inverter does not support parallel function .
And the unit come with white and black version .

Are these GSL words of fact or your wording asking if this is fact? You said that you bought one after assurances. Are these assurances only that it will work after some future firmware update, which is the same assurance that GRV0423 received about the generator?

Are do we know for a fact that these inverters work now in parallel?

 

[fromport]

an email snippet from GSL sales rep as I was inquiring about the new product. After some discussion and reassurances I still bought one….

Dear John,

To avoid any misunderstand . I need the clarify as below .

Because it is new released .The inverter does not support parallel function .
And the unit come with white and black version .

Just we are still not seeing the full picture, just 3 lines out of conversation that easily could be taken out of context,
I took the liberty to ask LuxPower directly if the units currently are able to be installed in parallel.
Will followup with the complete response when I get it.

 

[Archcpj]

I've been thinking about options if I decided to go with this converter for a while and I'm trying to avoid an independent disconnect...I.e. pulling my panel apart putting in switched etc...I have a ton of room in my existing main panel which is 200 am. Why couldn't I add a 2 Pole Circuit breaker to the panel for the output to the inverter and then have a second breaker at 50 amp because that's Max output of the Inverter going into the panel the CT clamps where they need to be between the meter and the existing panel and the inverter not work As 1A grid supplement comment 2AA backup in case of a power failure during the during the day at least until I can get a battery and 3 still do 0 export??? I'm sure I'm missing something just curious and thinking out loud looking for advice...

Fyi this breaker fits my cabinet style and I have the room...

https://www.amazon.com/Homeline-Circuit-Breaker-HOM2150BB-Approved/dp/B008HK7PE4

 

[fromport]

I've been thinking about options if I decided to go with this converter for a while and I'm trying to avoid an independent disconnect... I have a ton of room in my existing main panel which is 200 am. Why couldn't I add a 2 Pole Circuit breaker to the panel for the output to the inverter and then have a second breaker at 50 amp because that's Max output of the Inverter going into the panel the CT clamps where they need to be between the meter and the existing panel and the inverter not work As 1A grid supplement comment 2AA backup in case of a power failure during the during the day at least until I can get a battery and 3 still do 0 export??? I'm sure I'm missing something just curious and thinking out loud looking for advice...

Can you make a drawing of what you would like to do ?

 

[Not Aerosmith]

If you are not on the grid or during a power outage, you are right and the inverter current is limited to 50A.

If you are on-grid, the 50A breaker will limit the 200A pass-through to 50A.

 

[elusivesd]

I've been thinking about options if I decided to go with this converter for a while and I'm trying to avoid an independent disconnect...I.e. pulling my panel apart putting in switched etc...I have a ton of room in my existing main panel which is 200 am. Why couldn't I add a 2 Pole Circuit breaker to the panel for the output to the inverter and then have a second breaker at 50 amp because that's Max output of the Inverter going into the panel the CT clamps where they need to be between the meter and the existing panel and the inverter not work As 1A grid supplement comment 2AA backup in case of a power failure during the during the day at least until I can get a battery and 3 still do 0 export??? I'm sure I'm missing something just curious and thinking out loud looking for advice...

Fyi this breaker fits my cabinet style and I have the room...

https://www.amazon.com/Homeline-Circuit-Breaker-HOM2150BB-Approved/dp/B008HK7PE4

I have read your post multiple times and I’m having a difficult time understanding what you are trying to do. A drawing would really help. It sounds like you want to run 2 breakers from the panel to the inverter - one to the input of the inverter, and one to the output? Is this correct?

The main issue with any solution is ensuring the “output” (EPS) is never connected to the grid. This is not only a code violation, but a dangerous safety issue. An interlock between the breakers is possibly one way to do this - the “output” breaker can only be enabled if the main/grid breaker AND the inverter input breaker are shut off. However, I do not know if such a 3-way interlock exists off the shelf…

 

[fromport]

I have read your post multiple times and I’m having a difficult time understanding what you are trying to do. A drawing would really help. It sounds like you want to run 2 breakers from the panel to the inverter - one to the input of the inverter, and one to the output? Is this correct?

I interpreted that the same way, hence my request for a drawing ;-)

 

[Archcpj]

I have read your post multiple times and I’m having a difficult time understanding what you are trying to do. A drawing would really help. It sounds like you want to run 2 breakers from the panel to the inverter - one to the input of the inverter, and one to the output? Is this correct?

The main issue with any solution is ensuring the “output” (EPS) is never connected to the grid. This is not only a code violation, but a dangerous safety issue. An interlock between the breakers is possibly one way to do this - the “output” breaker can only be enabled if the main/grid breaker AND the inverter input breaker are shut off. However, I do not know if such a 3-way interlock exists off the shelf…

Can you make a drawing of what you would like to do ?

Im a lefty and write horribly so I apologize for the chicken scratch

 

[fromport]

Im a lefty and write horribly so I apologize for the chicken scratch

I will keep it short: will not work.
Do you think plugging the end of an extension cord in the beginning works ?
Same applies to your drawing: you can not have input & output connected to the same and expect something to "work"

 

[adamantium]

Im a lefty and write horribly so I apologize for the chicken scratch

Rather than explaining how you want to do it, please explain what you are trying to achieve. Provide all of the information we need to help you answer your questions.

What you have asked:
1. How to install the inverter with a bypass to address inverter failure,
2. How to make the inverter supplement the grid to lower bills and to provide backup power with zero export.

What we know:
1. You have a 200A service,
2. You have a Square D Homeline load center,
3. You don't want to mess with your load center, you just want to add a breaker to it to make it work,
4. You want the least expensive option.

Here are some questions:
1. Do you still need the inverter bypass?
2. Does your meter panel have a disconnect breaker in it?
3. Can you provide the model number of your Homeline load center?
a. Do you know how many amps your load center is rated for?
b. Does your load center have a main breaker in it at the top?
c. If your load center has a main breaker in it, what size is it?
4. Do you know how many amps or watts you use on average and peak?
5. Do you know where and how you are going to install the inverter relative to your load center?
6. How are you going to connect the PV power source(s)?
a. Are you going to connect PV panels directly to the inverter?
b. Are you going to connect existing PV grid-tie inverters to the output of the inverter?
c. Are you going to connect existing PV grid-tie inverters to the input of the inverter?

Here are some answers:
1. You can only connect the grid to the inverter's AC input.
2. You can never connect the grid to the inverter's AC output.
3. You can never connect the inverter AC input and AC output to the same panel.
4. The purpose of a large pass-through is to allow you to put the inverter between your meter panel and your main load center. This means that you do not need a breaker for the inverter. You simply connect the meter output to the inverter input and the inverter output to the existing load center. The meter is currently connected directly to the load center or to the load center's main breaker if it has one. You just reuse those wires.
5. Typically your meter has a breaker and your load center does not have a main breaker. The wires come from the meter and connect directly to the lugs in the load center. If your meter does not have a breaker, then you must have a main breaker in your load center. If this is the case, you MUST add a breaker to your meter panel if it allows one to be added, or you must add a new panel in front of the inverter with a main breaker in it so that you can disconnect your house from the grid. This is NOT optional if your meter panel does not currently have a breaker in it. If your service is 200A and you want to be able to use 200A, the breaker and panel must be rated for 200A. If you don't use 200A, then you can downsize everything to what you really use at and from that point.

Now with those answers you should be able to see how it all works. You connect your meter to your inverter, then your inverter to your load center. If you are connecting your PV panels directly to the inverter, the PV power will supplement the grid and reduce your power bill and you can have zero export. If the grid goes down with or without batteries, the inverter will continue to run and your PV power will continue to provide power to your house and charge your batteries.

If you have existing grid-tied inverters on your house and connect them to the output of your inverter, then they will also supplement the grid and reduce your power bill and you can have zero export. If the grid goes down and you have batteries, the inverter will continue to run and your PV power will continue to provide power to your house. However, the PV power will not charge your batteries as far as I understand the inverter. You will have to read up on that.

If you connect existing grid-tied PV inverters to the input of the inverter, then they will also supplement the grid and reduce your power bill. However you will not have zero export, and if the grid fails, the grid-tied PV inverters will turn off and they will not provide power to your house or to the inverter and will not charge your batteries.

None of what I have explained here addresses the inverter bypass in the event of inverter failure. The diagrams I provided previously describe that. If those are unsatisfactory, then there is another option, but it requires that your load center have a main breaker and you must be able to add an interlock kit to it at the top of the panel where the main breaker is. This solution eliminates one panel and its breakers but still requires a double-pole double-throw switch and one breaker and back-feed retaining brace. It will not support monitoring or charging the batteries or PV inputs when in grid-only mode, so that is why I did not provide that solution the first time. The solution I have already provided does. Given that you want 200A, you are going to have to pay a bunch for everything to be 200A capable, and I don't get the impression that you have the knowledge to pull it off without hurting or killing yourself.

If you have more questions, that is what the forum is for, but you need to provide all of the information necessary for us to provide a complete answer.