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New Lux Power LXP-LB-US 12k / GSL-H-12KLV-US with 200A AC Passthrough Current (US Market)

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Yes I understand that. So your saying the utility company has to remove the homes meter to disconnect power from the home so this inverter can be installed? That’s if the inverters 200amp pass through is to be utilized?
Your system might be different than mine. I have a meter pole in my front yard and then about 70' of cable running underground from the meter into my home. I own the cable running out of the meter into my home, so I don't have to have them do anything.
 
Your system might be different than mine. I have a meter pole in my front yard and then about 70' of cable running underground from the meter into my home. I own the cable running out of the meter into my home, so I don't have to have them do anything.
They wouldn't remove the meter, no.
 
It's either:
1. Taking the main service feed, passing that to the inverter, and sending that to the existing panel.
or
2. Adding a "critical loads" subpanel, move all existing circuits to the new subpanel, add a breaker in your main panel to feed the inverter, and have the inverter feed the new panel.
If backup power is important, option 1 is probably easier overall.
 
Ok before I pull the trigger on this Im looking for some info / insights what makes this unit the go to unit for zero export vs say a growatt??? Im liking the efficiency at 99% and the unit seems to be quite well built...
I can believe the zero export capability, not so sure with the 99% efficiency claim
 
How would that be wired to a home that already has electrical service installed?. Would the Utility service have to be disconnected from the main panel and this inverter installed between the two? My home for example only has onemain breaker in the main panel. To wire this inverter between utility service and that breaker, the electric company would have to disconnect the meter so the wires were not hot during inverter installation.
Or can this inverter simply be wired to a breaker in the main panel. I guess that might be an issue for most because their main panels are usually only 200amp.
that is correct, because this inverter has to isolate the grid during outage. Unless you move all your circuits to a separate critical loads panel, util company will be involved
 
that is correct, because this inverter has to isolate the grid during outage. Unless you move all your circuits to a separate critical loads panel, util company will be involved
Not always is the utility company involved. In my case, the utility company owns the meter, but I own everything between the meter pole and the house. There is a clear line of demarcation in the physical properties as well as the contracted services. They will only work on the power up to the meter, not into the house. I would have to hire an electrician, or do it myself. The utility company didn't even install my meter. My contractor installed the meter. But, the utility company did connect their main power to the meter pole and then the electrical contractor connected the house to the meter pole.
 
Your system might be different than mine. I have a meter pole in my front yard and then about 70' of cable running underground from the meter into my home. I own the cable running out of the meter into my home, so I don't have to have them do anything.
Mines the same I own 100 plus feet of under groumd cable that has a circuit nreaker at meter to kill it
 
Not always is the utility company involved. In my case, the utility company owns the meter, but I own everything between the meter pole and the house. There is a clear line of demarcation in the physical properties as well as the contracted services. They will only work on the power up to the meter, not into the house. I would have to hire an electrician, or do it myself. The utility company didn't even install my meter. My contractor installed the meter. But, the utility company did connect their main power to the meter pole and then the electrical contractor connected the house to the meter pole.
I am an electrician. I have installed many meter bases for customers. The electric company installs the meter itself which allows power to flow into the home.. to install these inverters after the meter and before the main panel, the electric company would have to remove the meter to stop the power flow into the home. Unless there’s a way to disconnect power after the meter but before the main panels breaker which would be another breaker or disconnect after the meter but before the main panels main breaker.
Codes are now requiring an outdoor disconnect which would disconnect the power from the meter so that these inverters could be easily installed without having the electric company disconnect there power supply at the meter or transformer.. however most homes do not have the outdoor disconnect
 
Questions about the pass through options.. If I were to do that how does zero export work then would I even need the ct clamps or would the inverter recognize the flow as it's going through it...
 
Questions about the pass through options.. If I were to do that how does zero export work then would I even need the ct clamps or would the inverter recognize the flow as it's going through it...
You need the CTs to indicate the direction of power flow and also to help with zero export. then, in the settings there is a Feed In Grid function to disable and also a Fast Zero Export to enable. The combination of these three things will prevent export to the grid.
 
I am an electrician. I have installed many meter bases for customers. The electric company installs the meter itself which allows power to flow into the home.. to install these inverters after the meter and before the main panel, the electric company would have to remove the meter to stop the power flow into the home. Unless there’s a way to disconnect power after the meter but before the main panels breaker which would be another breaker or disconnect after the meter but before the main panels main breaker.
Codes are now requiring an outdoor disconnect which would disconnect the power from the meter so that these inverters could be easily installed without having the electric company disconnect there power supply at the meter or transformer.. however most homes do not have the outdoor disconnect
How about Installing a double pole 150a breaker in one of the slots of the 200a Panel itself, then connecting that to the Inverter. That way your panel breaker switch is your means of disconnecting from utility power. I mean most people never get close to using even 100amps in their home. Is there a problem with this setup?
 
How about Installing a double pole 150a breaker in one of the slots of the 200a Panel itself, then connecting that to the Inverter. That way your panel breaker switch is your means of disconnecting from utility power. I mean most people never get close to using even 100amps in their home. Is there a problem with this setup?

As long as the main breaker is off. Otherwise you may exceed the busbar ampacity.

Max size backfeed to main panel is 120% of busbar ampacity minus main breaker.
 
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You need the CTs to indicate the direction of power flow and also to help with zero export. then, in the settings there is a Feed In Grid function to disable and also a Fast Zero Export to enable. The combination of these three things will prevent export to the grid.
Ok then the question I have is if the system is set up main line in from meter to inverter then from inverter to the L1 and L2 lugs in the original panel do you put the clamps in L1 and L2 in the panel or where it atraches to the inverter or doesn't it matter???
 
Ok then the question I have is if the system is set up main line in from meter to inverter then from inverter to the L1 and L2 lugs in the original panel do you put the clamps in L1 and L2 in the panel or where it atraches to the inverter or doesn't it matter???
The CTs go on the wires coming from the utility pole. It measures the current coming from the utility going into the inverter. Ignore the Generator part of this diagram, but the rest of it is for a whole house backup, grid tied.
 

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The CTs go on the wires coming from the utility pole. It measures the current coming from the utility going into the inverter. Ignore the Generator part of this diagram, but the rest of it is for a whole house backup, grid tied.
Would it be worth having a way to isolate the inverter from the grid so if the inverter failed you still would have power from the grid???
 
In such a case a transfer switch would be handy: direct from grid <-> output from inverter(s) feeding your main panel
If you want full isolation, you'd probably want to disconnect the inverter output from the panel as well. I have no idea what will happen if you connect the EPS port to grid, but most likely, this bypasses the internal relay and will backfeed the grid when it should not...

Transfer switch + interlock, maybe...
 
If you want full isolation, you'd probably want to disconnect the inverter output from the panel as well. I have no idea what will happen if you connect the EPS port to grid, but most likely, this bypasses the internal relay and will backfeed the grid when it should not...

Transfer switch + interlock, maybe...
Maybe a switch between the inverter and the panel if the inverter failed transfer power from inverter to panel direct from gridl and shut off switch between inverter and panel totally isolate the inverter????
 
If you want full isolation, you'd probably want to disconnect the inverter output from the panel as well. I have no idea what will happen if you connect the EPS port to grid, but most likely, this bypasses the internal relay and will backfeed the grid when it should not...

Transfer switch + interlock, maybe...
This is what I had in mind.
This way it can't do what you are describing
transfer_switch_bypass_hybrid_inverter.jpg
 
Maybe a switch between the inverter and the panel if the inverter failed transfer power from inverter to panel direct from gridl and shut off switch between inverter and panel totally isolate the inverter????
Would a 200amp double throw transfer switch say at the house after the meter not work one position one the power comes from meter to switch to inverter position two it goes grid to main house panel??? Then a simple 200 amp breaker between the inverter and main panel???
This is what I had in mind.
This way it can't do what you are describing
View attachment 117099
 
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