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diy solar

EG4 Ac input function(s)

EPicTony

EPicTony

Solar Enthusiast
Joined
May 29, 2022
Messages
225
Location
NE Ohio
On the EG4-6500ex I know the ac-input can charge the batteries.
My question is does it have a second function ie. providing power to the inverter ac OUTPUT.
For example at night when there is no PV power and the battery is discharged will the ac input provide power and keep the EG4's ac OUTPUT going ?
Thanks for the info !
 
EPicTony said:
On the EG4-6500ex I know the ac-input can charge the batteries.
My question is does it have a second function ie. providing power to the inverter ac OUTPUT.
For example at night when there is no PV power and the battery is discharged will the ac input provide power and keep the EG4's ac OUTPUT going ?
Thanks for the info !
Click to expand...
I agree with everything Bob said. The system will passthrough A/C power, charging the batteries and powering your home loads at the same time.
 
Fantastic ! This makes everything much easier for the different scenarios. Can't wait to get it working.
 
BenFromSignatureSolar said:
The system will passthrough A/C power, charging the batteries and powering your home loads at the same time.
Click to expand...
Hi Ben,
Does the system go into bypass mode where it the AC input to directly connected to the AC output (i.e. inverter not on) or is the AC input converted to DC to charge the battery AND power the inverter?
Thanks
Alfred
 
I'm curious about the behavior as well... If the load required of the inverter is greater than the inverter can handle, does it switch to grid mode to compensate?
 
Fred9876 said:
Hi Ben,
Does the system go into bypass mode where it the AC input to directly connected to the AC output (i.e. inverter not on) or is the AC input converted to DC to charge the battery AND power the inverter?
Thanks
Alfred
Click to expand...
It does both. It will charge the batteries until they reach the set parameters and at that point it will just pass through the ac power.
 
The odd thing I’ve noticed, cause my setup is in bypass mode right now, is that there’s still a draw on the batteries even when in bypass mode. I’m not sure if it’s just the fans on the inverters or not but I’m still showing a 64w draw when I view my smart shunt.
 
I have a question about the AC INPUT on the EG4-6500ex also but it's in relation to Wlll's recent video "Budget DIY Ecoflow Delta Pro! More power for less money". I have limited ability to use solar to charge my battery so I would like the option of grid charging through the inverter but to keep it "portable" it needs to be setup so it can be plugged in temporarily to charge and unplugged to move for use in emergencies. My question is, what specs for wiring do I use to do this? Can I just use a 12 gauge extension cord stripped and connected to the inverter input and plug it into the wall? If there isn't a way to charge it via grid when power is available like the Ecoflow then this type system isn't really a viable option. Thanks.
 
I don't know if the inverter can be programmed to only draw a specifc amperage for AC unput, yet. I'm finishing up my installation, so I don't know if you can set the amps it draws when plugged into the grid. I can say 12 gauge wouldn't cut it when charging and an extension cord would melt if the inverter tries to pull the full 60 AMPs. Most outlets are only capable of 15 amps, so my guess is your going to be more limited by the outlet you find more than the cord you use. Maybe have 10 feet of 4 gauge with a plug incase you find a highpower outlet at an RV site, then, if they're programmable, use an extension cord in other low amperage situations??
 
bob.longmire said:
I don't know if the inverter can be programmed to only draw a specifc amperage for AC unput, yet. I'm finishing up my installation, so I don't know if you can set the amps it draws when plugged into the grid. I can say 12 gauge wouldn't cut it when charging and an extension cord would melt if the inverter tries to pull the full 60 AMPs. Most outlets are only capable of 15 amps, so my guess is your going to be more limited by the outlet you find more than the cord you use. Maybe have 10 feet of 4 gauge with a plug incase you find a highpower outlet at an RV site, then, if they're programmable, use an extension cord in other low amperage situations??
Click to expand...
Yeah the manual says 4 AWG max and Will recommends 6 for output in his 48V Offgrid system video. I have a Bluetti and don't see how the DIY system he's talking about is a reasonable alternative if there's not an "easy" diy way to grid charge the battery when solar isn't an option like you can with the plug and play options. It might be cheaper but not really fully functional. I wish he would do a video expanding on this. Thanks for the reply.
 
Give me 2 weeks and I'll experiment with setting AC input draw limits and seeing what options exist. I'm also guessing a 15 amp 120 AC input would take 6-8 hours to charge a 5.5 kWh battery. So, that should be a consideration as well. I think Will is right that this is a more powerful option that costs less. I *think* there's a way to make it work with a regular outlet, but I'll test it out when I have my setup going. For the record, I ran 4 gauge to a 60AMP breaker for each inverter.
 
bob.longmire said:
Give me 2 weeks and I'll experiment with setting AC input draw limits and seeing what options exist. I'm also guessing a 15 amp 120 AC input would take 6-8 hours to charge a 5.5 kWh battery. So, that should be a consideration as well. I think Will is right that this is a more powerful option that costs less. I *think* there's a way to make it work with a regular outlet, but I'll test it out when I have my setup going. For the record, I ran 4 gauge to a 60AMP breaker for each inverter.
Click to expand...
check out Lithium Solar on youtube. He did a build similar to what you are looking for with a growatt and eg4 battery. You may take away some good ideas there. Stripping an extension cord to use as AC input is always pretty sketchy and not anything that we will support if there is an issue. (that being said... people do it, but we just don't advise that)
 
bob.longmire said:
Give me 2 weeks and I'll experiment with setting AC input draw limits and seeing what options exist. I'm also guessing a 15 amp 120 AC input would take 6-8 hours to charge a 5.5 kWh battery. So, that should be a consideration as well. I think Will is right that this is a more powerful option that costs less. I *think* there's a way to make it work with a regular outlet, but I'll test it out when I have my setup going. For the record, I ran 4 gauge to a 60AMP breaker for each inverter.
Click to expand...
Thanks. 4 gauge (or even 6) makes perfect sense if it's permanently attached to the house but at that point it's no longer portable. Unless you installed a special charging outlet with a heavy duty plug. You'd still need to take it to that one spot to charge but at least after charging it could be moved where you needed it. ?‍♂️
 
CoastieBalls1790 said:
Thanks. 4 gauge (or even 6) makes perfect sense if it's permanently attached to the house but at that point it's no longer portable. Unless you installed a special charging outlet with a heavy duty plug. You'd still need to take it to that one spot to charge but at least after charging it could be moved where you needed it. ?‍♂️
Click to expand...
That's how the setups I've seen are used.
 
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