VictronConnect 712 Battery monitor
- Thread starter DaHawg
- Start date
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
Is the charger attached to the shunt or the battery? If attached to the battery, it's bypassing the shunt, and the shunt can't see it.
Do you have any loads on the battery while charging? The shunt only sees the NET current in or out of the battery. If you're charging with 2.5A, but discharging 2A in loads, the shunt will only see 0.5A going into the battery.
Do you have any loads on the battery while charging? The shunt only sees the NET current in or out of the battery. If you're charging with 2.5A, but discharging 2A in loads, the shunt will only see 0.5A going into the battery.
DaHawg
New Member
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
DaHawg
New Member
No, the red wire basically goes to a terminal that is also connected to my batteries and inverter positive. I’m using my battery protect post for that function right now. Have 5 post terminal block to make that a permanent connection
DaHawg
New Member
Sorry, I’m a bit slow on this stuff still. I have no load on the system right now.
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
The way you have described that sounds totally wrong. Please disconnect it.
Provide sketch or zoomed out picture showing complete wiring.
DaHawg
New Member
Yeah, my bad. Take a look at the mess I sketched. I think I have everything connected properly. 
Charger at 2.5A, shunt only showing 0.5A into the battery that probably means there are loads powered.
If you unplug the charger, the shunt probably would show -2A from the battery.
Is the inverter on? Idle usage of the inverter and some usb sockets, solar charge controller and so on would be pretty close to the 2A.
Also use the right color wires. Using a red wire for negative is not recommended and makes things messy / hard to diagnose. And what about fuses? I don't see any.. which is a big nono
If you unplug the charger, the shunt probably would show -2A from the battery.
Is the inverter on? Idle usage of the inverter and some usb sockets, solar charge controller and so on would be pretty close to the 2A.
Also use the right color wires. Using a red wire for negative is not recommended and makes things messy / hard to diagnose. And what about fuses? I don't see any.. which is a big nono
DaHawg
New Member
This morning I kicked on the AC charger again to make sure I am completely topped off before my next test.
I noticed that the battery monitor and the AC charger are now showing the same current and voltage. I reset the battery monitor to default settings yesterday evening. I think I had the battery monitor settings really jacked.
I noticed that the battery monitor and the AC charger are now showing the same current and voltage. I reset the battery monitor to default settings yesterday evening. I think I had the battery monitor settings really jacked.
DaHawg
New Member
There was no load, I think I had my battery monitor settings way off. I think the issue is resolved, I will know better tonight.
Yes, fuses and cables. I have a 45 on the main from the battery to the terminal block. I have fuses on hand to correct when I recable for the permanent install. I have a one or two red cables that need replaced with black too. I will do that when I rebuild.
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
Is the inverter ON but with no loads?
The only way settings can affect current readings is with a zero current calibration - if you previously did it with some current flowing, it would be inaccurate.
Another possibility is that if you had the inverter ON but no loads, it may have been pulling a small draw as they do consume power as well. 50W+ seems high, but it's another possibility.
The only way settings can affect current readings is with a zero current calibration - if you previously did it with some current flowing, it would be inaccurate.
Another possibility is that if you had the inverter ON but no loads, it may have been pulling a small draw as they do consume power as well. 50W+ seems high, but it's another possibility.
DaHawg
New Member
No load at all, inverter is off
DaHawg
New Member
I will update after my next test, but I’m hoping this is resolved
DaHawg
New Member
That red wire going to the shunt is a negative from my charge controller. Will be replaced with black soon
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
assumed as much when you provided the sketch.
Similar threads
