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New Lux Power LXP-LB-US 12k / GSL-H-12KLV-US with 200A AC Passthrough Current (US Market)

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Grace_Luxpower said:
Please refer this video
You need to connect the on-grid system to the generator port, and the max current through that port is 90A
Click to expand...
so 90A, that's 21.6k solar ac couple? and how do you ENABLE OVER FREQUENCY DERATE on the inverter?
in the feature firmware for the inverter, will the inverter show the power that produce with ac couple on the gen port?
 
so 90A, that's 21.6k solar ac couple?---Yes, you are right.
and how do you ENABLE OVER FREQUENCY DERATE on the inverter?---you do not need to enable OVER FREQUENCY DERATE in our hybrid inverter. If your grid-tie inverter has this function, you need to enable it on your grid-tie inverter side.
will the inverter show the power that produce with ac couple on the gen port?---Yes, I showed you the display
 

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Grace_Luxpower said:
so 90A, that's 21.6k solar ac couple?---Yes, you are right.
and how do you ENABLE OVER FREQUENCY DERATE on the inverter?---you do not need to enable OVER FREQUENCY DERATE in our hybrid inverter. If your grid-tie inverter has this function, you need to enable it on your grid-tie inverter side.
will the inverter show the power that produce with ac couple on the gen port?---Yes, I showed you the display
Click to expand...
Thanks for confirmation.. i have a ac couple on the Gen port but its not showing the production of my ac couple? Mybe my inverter is not updated..IMG_0606.jpeg
 
My LUX 12k is connected to 600 ah of batteries with 4/0, 10' cables. Runs everything fine in bypass mode even when it is set for zero grid import. However, when in off grid, my 120 v amp spa won't run. As soon as the "jets" control button is pressed, there is a noise for a fraction of a second, the voltage drops to about 110 v and the spa display goes dead for a fraction of a second resetting the desired temperature back to 100 degrees and then lights back up. I'm guessing the spa control board is too sensitive to that small voltage drop when the pump comes on that everything is resetting. This is happening even when the pump is coming on in it's low setting probably drawing less than 10 to 12 amps of starting current. The Spa is designed and has run fine on a standard 110v 15 amp circuit.

I have no trouble starting other motor loads like washing machine and cloths dryer.

It there a fix for this problem?
 
Dcuste said:
However, when in off grid, my 120 v amp spa won't run. As soon as the "jets" control button is pressed, there is a noise for a fraction of a second, the voltage drops to about 110 v and the spa display goes dead for a fraction of a second resetting the desired temperature back to 100 degrees and then lights back up.
Click to expand...
I assume there's a high inrush current; from what I've read, you multiply the normal running current by 3-5 to estimate the inrush. My 5 ton a/c condensing unit is rated to run at 26.3 amps and inrush (locked rotor amps) is 134 amps. So, 134/26.3=5.06. I'm guessing your washing machine and dryer are lighter loads than the hot tub.

Not sure if it would help, but maybe you could rewire the hot tub to operate at 240v instead of 120v. Or, consider getting an easy start.

www.microair.net

EasyStart Breeze Soft Starter

Choose from 2 different models to best meet your specific needs. EasyStart Breeze - At a Glance Compatible with both RV rooftop and basement air conditioners. Significant reduction of up to 75% in starting current. Real-time fault detection technology is available to accurately identify and...
www.microair.net
 
BenFromSignatureSolar said:
The hub is now available for full closed loop comms
Click to expand...
I assume you are referring to https://eg4electronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/EG4-Communication-Hub-Manual-Ver.-1.0.0.pdf
I see they do have instructions for connecting it to the LUXPower. I already purchased a Solar Assistant hoping that it would communicate the battery information to the LUX. If it is capable of doing that, I haven't been able to figure how to make that work.
Do you happen to know if using the HUB will still allow me to have the Solar Assistant connected to the LUX and the EG4 batteries?
 
donb108 said:
I assume there's a high inrush current; from what I've read, you multiply the normal running current by 3-5 to estimate the inrush. My 5 ton a/c condensing unit is rated to run at 26.3 amps and inrush (locked rotor amps) is 134 amps. So, 134/26.3=5.06. I'm guessing your washing machine and dryer are lighter loads than the hot tub.

Not sure if it would help, but maybe you could rewire the hot tub to operate at 240v instead of 120v. Or, consider getting an easy start.

www.microair.net

EasyStart Breeze Soft Starter

Choose from 2 different models to best meet your specific needs. EasyStart Breeze - At a Glance Compatible with both RV rooftop and basement air conditioners. Significant reduction of up to 75% in starting current. Real-time fault detection technology is available to accurately identify and...
www.microair.net
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. This is a real small spa called a softub. I couldn't find anything specific about the motor or starting current so I measured the running current with a clamp on meter in the power panel. On low speed, the running current is only 3 amps. On high it runs at 9 amps. I tried using the hold button on the meter, but it captures before I can push the jet button. (It takes me about 10 seconds run out to push the button to start the spa. I know for sure this thing always starts on low. So figure 3 amps running, the starting current should be 15 amps max. For this inverter, 15 amps for less than a second shouldn't be causing much voltage drop at all. What am I missing here?
 
Dcuste said:
Thanks for the reply. This is a real small spa called a softub. I couldn't find anything specific about the motor or starting current so I measured the running current with a clamp on meter in the power panel. On low speed, the running current is only 3 amps. On high it runs at 9 amps. I tried using the hold button on the meter, but it captures before I can push the jet button. (It takes me about 10 seconds run out to push the button to start the spa. I know for sure this thing always starts on low. So figure 3 amps running, the starting current should be 15 amps max. For this inverter, 15 amps for less than a second shouldn't be causing much voltage drop at all. What am I missing here?
Click to expand...
perhaps the motor starts at high speed x 5 = 45 amps and then while ramping up goes to low speed.
There are special clamp on meters that register high peak. You would have to use that in order to know what the inrush current is.
I think the safe bet is to install an easystart.
The pump is surely exceeding the current (start current pump plus rest of your loads).
It is not the inverter but the load(s)
 
Dcuste said:
I already purchased a Solar Assistant hoping that it would communicate the battery information to the LUX. If it is capable of doing that, I haven't been able to figure how to make that work.
Click to expand...
Solar assistant won’t allow the inverter to see the batteries. SA aggregates the data from multiple devices and displays it. On certain inverters SA can change inverter settings based on data SA is collecting.
 
fromport said:
perhaps the motor starts at high speed x 5 = 45 amps and then while ramping up goes to low speed.
There are special clamp on meters that register high peak. You would have to use that in order to know what the inrush current is.
I think the safe bet is to install an easystart.
The pump is surely exceeding the current (start current pump plus rest of your loads).
It is not the inverter but the load(s)
Click to expand...
I don't think it starts at high speed. I would think that if it did I would hear when it goes to slow speed. There is a distinctly sound difference. I think the reason it always starts in slow speed is to prevent a large starting current. The other loads added up to less than 200 watts when I first was trying to start it while off grid. I later had the dryer and washer running with the hope that with a little inertia from those motors, the voltage would drop as much. Those loads didn't help and the spa kept failing.
While connected to grid, I made up an extension cord with separated wires to I could measure the measure the peak by observing the meter and holding the peak as I press the jut button. I ran the test multiple times and the highest starting current is 15.03 amps. The voltage drops to a low of 99v. The inverter is installed at the main panel using 15' AWG #1 wire. The feed to the sub panel is about 60 feet with AWG #2 wire. The spa is on a 30' #14 AWG 15 amp circuit. This all works fine On grid.
My thinking is that the Inverter isn't responding to a sudden 15 amp load witch is allowing the voltage to sag too much for the electronics in the spa to deal with.
I've had to replace the control board about three years ago and in the process had the motor out. I don't remember seeing a start capacitor so I'm pretty sure the motor is one with a contactor that switches from start to run based on the rotor speed. I doubt there is even a way to connect an easystart to this type of motor.
 
ChrisG said:
Solar assistant won’t allow the inverter to see the batteries. SA aggregates the data from multiple devices and displays it. On certain inverters SA can change inverter settings based on data SA is collecting.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the confirmation. Do you know if I use the new EG4 HUB connected between the batteries and the LUX. Will having the SA connected only to the LUX, allow me to see the battery info just as I do now with SA connected only to the batteries?
Also do you know if SA plans on making it so it can be hard wired connected to the LUX or will it always require wifi?
 
Dcuste said:
I don't think it starts at high speed. I would think that if it did I would hear when it goes to slow speed. There is a distinctly sound difference. I think the reason it always starts in slow speed is to prevent a large starting current. The other loads added up to less than 200 watts when I first was trying to start it while off grid. I later had the dryer and washer running with the hope that with a little inertia from those motors, the voltage would drop as much. Those loads didn't help and the spa kept failing.
While connected to grid, I made up an extension cord with separated wires to I could measure the measure the peak by observing the meter and holding the peak as I press the jut button. I ran the test multiple times and the highest starting current is 15.03 amps. The voltage drops to a low of 99v. The inverter is installed at the main panel using 15' AWG #1 wire. The feed to the sub panel is about 60 feet with AWG #2 wire. The spa is on a 30' #14 AWG 15 amp circuit. This all works fine On grid.
My thinking is that the Inverter isn't responding to a sudden 15 amp load witch is allowing the voltage to sag too much for the electronics in the spa to deal with.
I've had to replace the control board about three years ago and in the process had the motor out. I don't remember seeing a start capacitor so I'm pretty sure the motor is one with a contactor that switches from start to run based on the rotor speed. I doubt there is even a way to connect an easystart to this type of motor.
Click to expand...
Measure the output per line, it should be 120v( per) line to neutral and 240v line to line… also check for battery voltage drop.
 
Dcuste said:
Thanks for the confirmation. Do you know if I use the new EG4 HUB connected between the batteries and the LUX. Will having the SA connected only to the LUX, allow me to see the battery info just as I do now with SA connected only to the batteries?
Also do you know if SA plans on making it so it can be hard wired connected to the LUX or will it always require wifi?
Click to expand...
It will only show the battery percentage, temperature and voltage
 
Just did the latest update this morning and now it showing my ac couple production on the screen and on the web but not with the app..IMG_0610.jpeg
 
Dcuste said:
I doubt there is even a way to connect an easystart to this type of motor.
Click to expand...
I don't blame you for being skeptical, and I'd be hesitant to spend $300 on a wild guess. On the other hand, starting large motors on a high frequency inverter is a pretty common issue on this forum. I don't know how to help any further from here, but I'm guessing someone has a way to test/confirm/deny the issue.

For motor wiring, you should probably contact Micro-Air for instructions before writing it off.
 
GRV0423 said:
Anyway thanks, whoever was helping from Lux was really good and responsive. Its way better than my distributor… also kind a found out that the inverter came with either small screen (Lux new 12k) or big screen like GSL inverter…
Click to expand...
How did you request the update? My distributor told me that he updated me to the latest version, but I just checked and it is FAABO9O9. How can I go about getting either LUX to update it or send the latest and give me the instructions I'll need to do it myself?
 
Dcuste said:
How did you request the update? My distributor told me that he updated me to the latest version, but I just checked and it is FAABO9O9. How can I go about getting either LUX to update it or send the latest and give me the instructions I'll need to do it myself?
Click to expand...
You can update it with yourself if your account is set up as a installer…
What lcd version are you now? Or take a picture on device info.
This is their email address info@luxpowertek.com
Send your SN and ask for updates
 
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