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Epever 4215AN charging dystrophy, and cutting out. Trials and possible solutions.

If you have the time to wait for me to do my ‘test’ I’ll have an answer or figure it out.
Well, don't do anything different because of me, but I'll be interested in what you find and which way you go. I was >hoping< that because my planned system was smaller and more primitive than your present equipment that I might not have the same issues you're having (4 x 100W panels, I have just two 100AH 12V FLAs (so no BMS issue) and I was just planning on using the 3210AN). But, after re-reading your similar problems with Epever controllers on lead acid batteries and pollenface's (post 9) Epever voltage spiking/inverter high voltage cutoff problems, it seems like a good chance I could experience similar problems. I have two 10A PWM charge controllers already, so I could charge in a pinch without buying an MPPT controller at all. Still, I'll keep an eye on your progress/decisions and decide if getting an MPPT controller for my small, backup only system seems to make sense. Heck, for $100 spent on a low-end MPPT SCC I could instead buy another 100W panel and a cheap 10A PWM controller for it and probably have more failure redundancy and more watt-hours per day of collection/storage.
Thanks again.

Mark
 
I have just two 100AH 12V FLAs
The issue I had with fla was the 4210AN would constantly cut out and reset when equalizing. That is an issue.
With the current LiFePo’s there’s no equalize but once “full” voltage is achieved (which isn’t necessarily fully charged) it drops the amps to nothing and doesn’t work properly again unless I cycle off the panels or it goes overnight.

With fla you set HVD really high and do equalize too low with a lowered bulk setting and function fine is what I concluded. It was apparent bar 600W and troublesome when I went 800W.

I’ll update but it might be a while - it’s going to rain until next Saturday so ain’t no high voltage Solar happening anyways2ED11593-ABA3-4F14-A2F7-05BE123288F7.jpeg
 
........ it drops the amps to nothing and doesn’t work properly again unless I cycle off the panels or it goes overnight.
This has been documented and lightly discussed. There is a video link in the thread below and in the comments someone mentions using a diode in the output to fix the issue. I have not confirmed this.

 
The issue I had with fla was the 4210AN would constantly cut out and reset when equalizing. That is an issue.
With the current LiFePo’s there’s no equalize but once “full” voltage is achieved (which isn’t necessarily fully charged) it drops the amps to nothing and doesn’t work properly again unless I cycle off the panels or it goes overnight.

With fla you set HVD really high and do equalize too low with a lowered bulk setting and function fine is what I concluded. It was apparent bar 600W and troublesome when I went 800W.
Hmmm. In my project (solar panels, SCC, cables, etc all boxed up for deployment if needed, FLA batteries kept healthy on grid power), the equalization "glitch" of the 4210AN wouldn't be much of a headache. I'll be equalizing the batteries using grid power and a smart charger, if I ever need to equalize them using solar (unlikely), I can use your work-around method.
........ it drops the amps to nothing and doesn’t work properly again unless I cycle off the panels or it goes overnight.
This has been documented and lightly discussed. There is a video link in the thread below and in the comments someone mentions using a diode in the output to fix the issue. I have not confirmed this.

This glitch might be more of a problem. It's crazy that a person might have to keep watch on the thing and disconnect/reconnect the panels to get the controller to re-appraise the situation. I guess I could roll the dice and buy the 4210AN--Only 1 of sunsurfer's 5 controllers misbehaved, I might get a good one. Or, if this is caused by having panels in series and higher voltages, in my case my panels won't be far from the controller, so running all 4 in parallel wouldn't be a "costly cable" problem (so, maybe 21 Voc and 20A from the PV measured at the controller). Or, if (as sunsurfer has hypothesized) this only happens when multiple controllers are run in parallel, then I might not be susceptible to this problem at all if running just one controller.

The Epevers are popular, it would seem if this "gets stuck at low amperage and never recalculates" issue was common that there would be a lot of fuss about it. It's good to know it happens, though, so if I buy a 4210AN (or 3210AN) I'll know what to look for. If I buy a less popular controller (PowMR, etc), it would still be a roll of the dice, and the "glitches" are less likely to be as widely documented.
Thanks again, I'll keep watching and learning from you guys.

Mark
 
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The Epevers are popular, it would seem if this "gets stuck at low amperage and never recalculates" issue was common that there would be a lot of fuss about it. It's good to know it happens, though, so if I buy a 4210AN (or 3210AN) I'll know what to look for. If I buy a less popular controller (PowMR, etc), it would still be a roll of the dice, and the "glitches" are less likely to be as widely documented.
Thanks again, I'll keep watching and learning from you guys.

Mark
3 out of 5 I used had the issue. All ran in parallel. I ran one by itself on a 24v setup and it did it every day. Even without this issue, I was disappointed in the performance. A cloud would pass and they would miss the sun light. By the time it tracked, a cloud would be back. Perhaps it did captured the sun but the displayed did not show it? I never checked with a meter directly. I just ditched them and went Victron. I don't have enough free time to play with cheap SCCs. I also am off-grid and need something more solid and reliable power.
 
3 out of 5 I used had the issue. All ran in parallel. I ran one by itself on a 24v setup and it did it every day. Even without this issue, I was disappointed in the performance. A cloud would pass and they would miss the sun light. By the time it tracked, a cloud would be back. Perhaps it did captured the sun but the displayed did not show it? I never checked with a meter directly. I just ditched them and went Victron. I don't have enough free time to play with cheap SCCs. I also am off-grid and need something more solid and reliable power.
Thanks for the additional details. It just seems strange--they sell a lot of these, they get good reviews, yet there are also plenty of reports like this, too. I'd understand anomalies due to "edge" cases (parallel SCCs, very high system or PV voltages, etc), but the problems apparently aren't isolated to these situations.
For my "just in case" system, a Victron SCC just isn't in the cards. I can sure see the rationale if we were talking about my everyday electrical power.
12VoltInstalls, I'm not seeing a lot of love for the low amp PowMR SCCs ("POW-Keeper"grey and orange case, no fan). The rough/incomplete manual is a common source of frustration. OTOH, the user reviews for the older metal-cased 60A units (with fan--{maybe eliminated in current models?), overal similar to the "MakeSkyBlue") seem more positive. The documentation may be a bit better, though it sounds like the display is still a bit "unintuitive". I can see a user might wind up adding a bunch of stickers with the fault codes, etc to the cover.

Rant: It just wouldn't seem very difficult to build a good, simple MPPT SCC. I understand the need to cut hardware costs, but the operations themselves would seem within the scope of an Arduino and some not very complex Python code.

Thanks again.

 
60A has a fan
That’s the one I’m referring to. Success rate with YouTube hobbiest pro’s and others on this forum don’t give it high quality scores but say it works ok except maybe not overpaneled; but it has the VOC headroom to not matter.

Be me: need two? Buy three. Need one? Buy two.
 
For my "just in case" system, a Victron SCC just isn't in the cards. I can sure see the rationale if we were talking about my everyday electrical power.
12VoltInstalls, I'm not seeing a lot of love for the low amp PowMR SCCs ("POW-Keeper"grey and orange case, no fan)
Well, geeze louise!!!
This just in….

It’s plenty heavy - not ‘very’ heavy but ‘form factor’ is very small for its weight for 60A.

But I see it is unfinished aluminum with a fan:image.jpg
 
FWIW, You are living my nightmare. I'm seeing the exact same thing, although I'm using 2 8D flooded cells, not lithium's. My EPEVER tracer 60A will charge @20A or so for 20-30 seconds and then just shut down for no apparent reason, then start back up charging again a couple mins later. And cycle like that continuously. Wiring is good, voltages test fine at the SCC, batteries are brand new, I have 800W of panels and this is a replacement EPEVER unit I just installed.

I'm about ready to list it on eBay and look for another SCC.
 
seeing the exact same thing
Try putting HV limit at ~16.1V with:
Float 13.8
Boost/bulk 14.2
disable equalize for now but set for 14.6

Let us know if that helps. Spreading the HV point from boost sorta mitigated some of my issues when I was lead acid. Didn’t fix it
 
I have two separate lifepo4 battery banks at my place with 4 Epever SCC'. (2 strings on each bank)

I did notice those occasional days when a SCC just couldn't be bothered putting watts into a 80% SOC battery when there was full sun in the sky.

I have independent bluetooth voltage recording and logging devices on both battery banks to help me to problem solve the issue. So things I have learnt...

The voltage that the Epever SCC sees isn't an accurate indication of battery voltage.

Turning a decent load on from the inverter would trigger the SCC to wake up an start dumping all available watts from the panels into the battery bank.

I continued to monitor things and tweak settings in order to get the SCCs to always reliably put available watts from the panels into the batteries until they reached my voltage set point.

What helped the most was bringing float and boost reconnect up much closer to the boost voltage setting.

Like now for example one bank is set on...

Boost Charge: 13.8

Float Charge: 13.7

Boost Reconnect: 13.6

It has been running this way reliably for months now and is always putting available sunlight when it possibly can into a less than full battery.
 
I have two separate lifepo4 battery banks at my place with 4 Epever SCC'. (2 strings on each bank)

I did notice those occasional days when a SCC just couldn't be bothered putting watts into a 80% SOC battery when there was full sun in the sky.

I have independent bluetooth voltage recording and logging devices on both battery banks to help me to problem solve the issue. So things I have learnt...

The voltage that the Epever SCC sees isn't an accurate indication of battery voltage.

Turning a decent load on from the inverter would trigger the SCC to wake up an start dumping all available watts from the panels into the battery bank.

I continued to monitor things and tweak settings in order to get the SCCs to always reliably put available watts from the panels into the batteries until they reached my voltage set point.

What helped the most was bringing float and boost reconnect up much closer to the boost voltage setting.

Like now for example one bank is set on...

Boost Charge: 13.8

Float Charge: 13.7

Boost Reconnect: 13.6

It has been running this way reliably for months now and is always putting available sunlight when it possibly can into a less than full battery.
Shouldn't have to "tweek" a charge controller to get around bugs. I went from epever to epNEVER last year. So glad I made the switch.
 
3) Because I am going to add in the six 320W panels over a 6420AN - which is way overpaneled- at some point soon I’m thinking about C-rate again.

That strikes me as very over panelled for the 60 amp SCC unit. I would only put 1200 watts of PV into that myself on a 13 volt system.
 
That strikes me as very over panelled for the 60 amp SCC unit. I would only put 1200 watts of PV into that myself on a 13 volt system.
Yes. You are correct.
But I’m not trying to harvest the full panel potential (I don’t need it) I’m trying to exceed my daily kWh needs November to March by having way more solar panel wattage than “necessary” so the many 10% solar days might give me “just enough.” Plus, in winter they will be vertical to eliminate cleaning snow off them- that has a wattage consequence, too.

But thank you for being thoughtful to respond.
 

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