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What Mini-Split did you use, and Why?

You can see in this graph where the grid was triggered and then went back to battery. The load didn't change. In particular, when it went to grid at the 6:30 mark the load was above 4k. Those little spikes are the coffee maker but most of the rest of it is the AC units. This is, of course, speculation but it's based on a lot of days of monitoring so I can usually tell when the AC units are running and whether it's one or two units. I actually have a third one ton unit on the garage but it draws so little it's hard to identify in a graph. But beyond this, I actually checked a couple of times when it went to grid and the units never shut off.

View attachment 153149
This is awesome thanks. I will have one inverter that only powers three minisplits and I want to make sure if the inverter switches to grid in the middle of the night it doesn't shut off the units. This is promising.

Have you looked at getting an emporia vue-?
 
This is awesome thanks. I will have one inverter that only powers three minisplits and I want to make sure if the inverter switches to grid in the middle of the night it doesn't shut off the units. This is promising.

Have you looked at getting an emporia vue-?
Yeah. I have looked at it multiple times. I just can't come up with a scenario where any data would cause me to change anything I'm doing. It would be interesting but not really very valuable. I'm all for the cool factor but I'm saving up for more batteries and upgrading inverters! ?
 
They just changed it. Oh well at that price they are out to lunch.
looking at the Miranda or whatever mini u split for a window
As of yesterday rackupgo had it for $1000, battery $700. Some research suggests they are absolutely legit. Based in north dakota with distribution centers across america.
Again though other than having its own power source which can charge off 12v (still limited run time) i couldnt see a lot of benefit over a portable using it in my van. Its a little smaller but my experience is that the ducts take up as much room.
I toyed with the idea of a mini split but didnt really see an easy way to mount the outside unit and Id need it to be removable in the fall and winter. I could do that with an industrial spot cooler on a hitch rack and theyre $800.
 
If theres no water in the bucket, then it must be pretty poor at lowering humidity, which I think is pretty important.
I think mine has a setting for increased dehumidification. If I remember correctly it is a matter of the condenser coil being below the dew point of the air. Others with more specific knowledge can probably elaborate.
 
As of yesterday rackupgo had it for $1000, battery $700. Some research suggests they are absolutely legit. Based in north dakota with distribution centers across america.
Again though other than having its own power source which can charge off 12v (still limited run time) i couldnt see a lot of benefit over a portable using it in my van. Its a little smaller but my experience is that the ducts take up as much room.
I toyed with the idea of a mini split but didnt really see an easy way to mount the outside unit and Id need it to be removable in the fall and winter. I could do that with an industrial spot cooler on a hitch rack and theyre $800.
Ecoflo.ca sells them for,1400CDN

rackupgo is in souxfalls south Dakota. I’m in fargo next week. If I have time I’ll go for a drive. It’s about 3 hours or so.
 
I think mine has a setting for increased dehumidification. If I remember correctly it is a matter of the evaporator coil being below the dew point of the air. Others with more specific knowledge can probably elaborate.
 
Yeah. I have looked at it multiple times. I just can't come up with a scenario where any data would cause me to change anything I'm doing. It would be interesting but not really very valuable. I'm all for the cool factor but I'm saving up for more batteries and upgrading inverters! ?
Yeah if you already have your solar system it may not be as valuable but for someone like me who is trying to size the system it's invaluable.
 
So I Googled that SEER2, the new efficiency ratings, would be about 5% lower. However, all the super high SEER mini splits are getting knocked way down. Anybody know the particulars of why these are so affected??

Just an EXAMPLE, not stepping on YOUR toes if this is yours :)
38 SEER vs 27 SEER2 that's a hell of a lot more than 5%

 
So I Googled that SEER2, the new efficiency ratings, would be about 5% lower. However, all the super high SEER mini splits are getting knocked way down. Anybody know the particulars of why these are so affected??

Just an EXAMPLE, not stepping on YOUR toes if this is yours :)
38 SEER vs 27 SEER2 that's a hell of a lot more than 5%

The efficiency hasn't changed. Only the rating system.
 
SEER2 has a number of new minimum requirements like minimum SEER2 rating based on unit BTU size and region of country.

Probably the biggest handicap added is a 0.5 inches water column resistance air pressure resistance added for air ducts and air filters. This is called static pressure the blower must work against. It also modifies the vapor pressure of air a bit so the amount of humidity extracted from air drops as static pressure rises.

A large impact to static pressure an end user may do without realizing it is the type of air filter used.

Because of Covid, a lot more people bought fine microfiber air filters thinking they were going to filter out Covid virus. Of course, manufacturers where more than happy to sell more expensive micro-particle filters.

Air conditioner filters sold are in the range from about 0.05 to 0.5 effective inch-column of water air blockage. A filter greater than about 0.2 has a sizable reduction in air conditioner efficiency. It can also make the air blower work harder for constant CFM mode blower motors.

Most people do not realize how much a negative impact the air filter can have on air conditioner performance.
 
The efficiency hasn't changed. Only the rating system.
Certainly - but the perception is these high-SEER mini splits were gaming the rating system via essentially some "loophole" (partial output, etc??) that's now been closed?

Whereas, as RC says your "14 SEER" ducted Goodman unit and so on now becomes 13.4 SEER2 or whatever other regional minimum is applicable ?
 
Certainly - but the perception is these high-SEER mini splits were gaming the rating system via essentially some "loophole" (partial output, etc??) that's now been closed?

Whereas, as RC says your "14 SEER" ducted Goodman unit and so on now becomes 13.4 SEER2 or whatever other regional minimum is applicable ?
I don't know. That's certainly a possibility but I thought the SEER rating was a pretty basic formula. Number of BTUs of heat removed divided by wh. Maybe there's a way to game that. SEER2 uses the same math but uses more precise measuring standards, as I understand it. I think SEER2 also factors in heating capacity so it would only apply to heat pumps, right? As long as you use the the same standard for comparison I doubt if it's going to much change the difference between one brand and another. But it's not my area of expertise.
 
So we're just really pointing out a clogged filter and / or restricted ductwork (if ducted) is killing "super" high efficiency units proportionally more than "basic" units?? If so that is interesting, and the actual operating efficiency WOULD have changed?
 
I don't know. That's certainly a possibility but I thought the SEER rating was a pretty basic formula. Number of BTUs of heat removed divided by wh. Maybe there's a way to game that. SEER2 uses the same math but uses more precise measuring standards, as I understand it. I think SEER2 also factors in heating capacity so it would only apply to heat pumps, right? As long as you use the the same standard for comparison I doubt if it's going to much change the difference between one brand and another. But it's not my area of expertise.
That would be cop, not seer or eer
 
So we're just really pointing out a clogged filter and / or restricted ductwork (if ducted) is killing "super" high efficiency units proportionally more than "basic" units?? If so that is interesting, and the actual operating efficiency WOULD have changed?
The low efficiency units also have very powerful fans that how through anything. With inverters, they use weak fans so you have to be very intentional about designing the ductwork and filter system. My 2 ton ducted inverter uses 2x 20x25 filters
 
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That would be cop, not seer or eer
I'm just going by the resources I've used. Really, my only contention is that changing the rating system doesn't change the machine. If you bought a brand X model Z heat pump with a 20 SEER rating and their new rating shows it with an 18.5 SEER2 the unit hasn't changed, just the rating system.

But regarding COP and SEER, this is what I found, FWIW -

The SEER rating is calculated by dividing the total number of BTUs (British Thermal Units) of heat removed from the air by the total amount of energy required by the air conditioner in watt-hours. The higher the ratio, the more energy efficient the air conditioner is.

And this -

There are four heat pump performance measures: coefficient of performance (COP), energy efficiency ratio (EER), seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER), and heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF)

COP is the ratio of the output power to the input power, that is,
(COP=outputpower / inputpower
COP, which is a dimensionless number, is therefore a measure of efficiency; the higher the number, the more efficient the heat pump is.

The EER is the ratio of output cooling energy (in BTUs) to electrical input energy (in Watt-hour).
EER=outputcoolingenergyinBTU / inputelectricalenergyinWh
Therefore, it has dimensions of BTU/Wh. It is also noted that it is measured over time.

The SEER is the ratio of output cooling energy (in BTUs) to electrical input energy (in Watt-hour). SEER is a measurement of how the system behaves over a season where the outdoor temperature fluctuates.

SEER=outputcoolingenergyoveraseasoninBTU / inputelectricalenergyoverthesameseasoninWh
HSPF is a measure of the efficiency of a system and the units are the same to that of the SEER. HSPF, however, measures the efficiency of the system in heating mode, not in cooling mode.


At the end of the day, all I can tell you for certain is that my ducted mini-splits are keeping the house much more comfortable and at a consistent temperature than my 10 year old heat pumps were, and at something around 25% less consumption so I'm happy as a clam. More importantly, wife is happy too.

Are clams happy? Never mind - a topic for another day. :ROFLMAO:
 
I'm just going by the resources I've used. Really, my only contention is that changing the rating system doesn't change the machine. If you bought a brand X model Z heat pump with a 20 SEER rating and their new rating shows it with an 18.5 SEER2 the unit hasn't changed, just the rating system.

But regarding COP and SEER, this is what I found, FWIW -

The SEER rating is calculated by dividing the total number of BTUs (British Thermal Units) of heat removed from the air by the total amount of energy required by the air conditioner in watt-hours. The higher the ratio, the more energy efficient the air conditioner is.

And this -

There are four heat pump performance measures: coefficient of performance (COP), energy efficiency ratio (EER), seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER), and heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF)

COP is the ratio of the output power to the input power, that is,
(COP=outputpower / inputpower
COP, which is a dimensionless number, is therefore a measure of efficiency; the higher the number, the more efficient the heat pump is.

The EER is the ratio of output cooling energy (in BTUs) to electrical input energy (in Watt-hour).
EER=outputcoolingenergyinBTU / inputelectricalenergyinWh
Therefore, it has dimensions of BTU/Wh. It is also noted that it is measured over time.

The SEER is the ratio of output cooling energy (in BTUs) to electrical input energy (in Watt-hour). SEER is a measurement of how the system behaves over a season where the outdoor temperature fluctuates.

SEER=outputcoolingenergyoveraseasoninBTU / inputelectricalenergyoverthesameseasoninWh
HSPF is a measure of the efficiency of a system and the units are the same to that of the SEER. HSPF, however, measures the efficiency of the system in heating mode, not in cooling mode.


At the end of the day, all I can tell you for certain is that my ducted mini-splits are keeping the house much more comfortable and at a consistent temperature than my 10 year old heat pumps were, and at something around 25% less consumption so I'm happy as a clam. More importantly, wife is happy too.

Are clams happy? Never mind - a topic for another day. :ROFLMAO:
I was wrong about the calculation-it is indeed eer. I thought eer had to be a specific temperature but that's not really correct. Heck I don't know- I know almost as little about HVAC as I do about solar ?
 
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I was about the calculation-it is indeed eer. I thought eer had to be a specific temperature but that's not really correct. Heck I don't know- I know almost as little about HVAC as I do about solar ?
I'm nothing resembling an expert on either myself.

On a semi-related subject, wife and I both decided it was just too dang cold in the house so we raised the stat for the bedrooms from 72 to 73 and the stat for the LR/kitchen/dining/foyer from 73 to 74 and it's much more comfortable. But just going by today, which is very much like yesterday in total consumption and outside temps, it looks like that 1 degree could have reduced our consumption by something between 5 and 10 kwh. Is that possible? I know there's probably a formula somewhere but it would still have some slight environmental variables so I don't really know how you could be sure. I'm thinking if I trend it over several days with similar temps I might get a better idea. That seems like an awful lot for just 1 degree change though.
 
I'm nothing resembling an expert on either myself.

On a semi-related subject, wife and I both decided it was just too dang cold in the house so we raised the stat for the bedrooms from 72 to 73 and the stat for the LR/kitchen/dining/foyer from 73 to 74 and it's much more comfortable. But just going by today, which is very much like yesterday in total consumption and outside temps, it looks like that 1 degree could have reduced our consumption by something between 5 and 10 kwh. Is that possible? I know there's probably a formula somewhere but it would still have some slight environmental variables so I don't really know how you could be sure. I'm thinking if I trend it over several days with similar temps I might get a better idea. That seems like an awful lot for just 1 degree change though.

See, if you had that emporia vue, you would know for sure ??

On a more serious note,
I don't think one degree change can make a 10kwh difference. This is very rough math but say your house envelope is 6000 sf, and average r value of 10 and average outside temp over a whole day is say 90 degrees, then indoor temp of 75 deg is going to be transfer rate of (90-75)*6000*24/ 10= 216k BTU that the ac system has to remove.

Drop the inside temp to 74 , then (90-74)*6000*24/ 10= 230k BTU, a difference of 14kbtu. At a cop of 1 it would take 14000/3412 or 4.1kwh but if your ac has a cop of 2 then it would be about 2kwh per day difference so I can't see even 5 kWh unless you have a massive house , or a poorly insulated house.
 
The higher COP value the more efficient the minisplit are - aka using less electricity.
One of the factors I valued when buying my Mitsubishis.
It was class leading at the point of purchase.
 
See, if you had that emporia vue, you would know for sure ??

On a more serious note,
I don't think one degree change can make a 10kwh difference. This is very rough math but say your house envelope is 6000 sf, and average r value of 10 and average outside temp over a whole day is say 90 degrees, then indoor temp of 75 deg is going to be transfer rate of (90-75)*6000*24/ 10= 216k BTU that the ac system has to remove.

Drop the inside temp to 74 , then (90-74)*6000*24/ 10= 230k BTU, a difference of 14kbtu. At a cop of 1 it would take 14000/3412 or 4.1kwh but if your ac has a cop of 2 then it would be about 2kwh per day difference so I can't see even 5 kWh unless you have a massive house , or a poorly insulated house.
I know. But I'd rather spend the money on more solar stuff! :ROFLMAO: Like the chargeverter I just ordered a few minutes ago. It never ends.

Massive house, maybe a little bit. It's all perspective but yeah, it's fairly large at around 3400 sf. But the upstairs is on a separate unit and it's still on the grid so really only doing about 2400 sf with 10 ft ceilings. Extremely well insulated with six inches of blown on everywhere, even in the detached garage.

I dunno - it sure seems like it made a difference. Doesn't matter I guess because it's more comfortable and I know it's saving at least some on consumption. When the sun shines all day I don't care but it's been so cloudy lately I noticed it.
 
The higher COP value the more efficient the minisplit are - aka using less electricity.
One of the factors I valued when buying my Mitsubishis.
It was class leading at the point of purchase.
There were several factors that pushed me to Mitsubishi but efficiency overall was definitely one of them. Reliability was another.
 
SEER general definition includes an average period of time only during summer with some pretty easy conditions.

Laboratory conditions of:
- constant indoor temperature of 80°F at 50% relative humidity.
- outdoor temperature of 82°F at 39% relative humidity.

ANSI/AHRI Standard 210/240-200

SEER specs highly favors equipment that can efficiently power down to 10-25% of rated btu output by varying compressor speed and thus its power consumption under low btu transfer conditions, even if efficiency goes to hell at high percentage rating btu loading.

A big problem with any standards for HVAC is everyone's conditions of use are different.
 
I did the same on my pioneer, vacuumed down for hours, let sit, realize the cheap adapter I bought leaked, vacuumed for hours and hours again let sit, no movement on gauge. Turned valve to release R410a 1/4 turn for 5 seconds closed valve. Checked everything with soapy water, no leaks. Released rest of refrigerant. Turned heat on max, was blown away how hot the air was coming out of the indoor unit, went outside checked for leaks again. Turned max cool, couldn't believe how cold air was. Went outside and finishing insulating pipes. Turned up heat, got ready for sleep, turned temp way down, slept like baby, woke up, turned up heat, went outside and put line covers on.

Wow that's a big run on of a post. Anyways, I rtfm and it's been running 24/7 ever since.
Just over 1 month and it's still running like a champ.
I shut it off once to check the filter and once or twice when I accidentally hit the power button on the remote.
I'm still amazed at the dry function and how much water comes out of the condensate line.
I'll be trying the self cleaning function sooner than later.

I still can't believe how much I was missing being able to rapidly chill the room to the low 60s for lights out and heat it back up to force myself out of bed, after my 3rd or 4th alarm wakes me up...

Now I'm trying to decide if I go with another Pioneer for the main living area or save a few hundred and go with a 'cheaper' brand on amazon. I also have to figure out how big of a pita it's going to be routing the line set through a closet to get the outside wall, lotta stuff in that closet that needs moved...

TLDR - Pioneer inverter ++ still solid after a month.
 

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