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Looking for light weight racking material to build my own racking system.

This past July, we put up a Gazebo made of angle irons and square tubes. It said "Heavy Duty". I live in NC. We put it up on Saturday. On Monday a thunderstorm popped up and the angle irons were bent like bananas in under 10 minutes. The bases I had pounded in to hold them down stayed in the ground but the steel folded in the middle when the wind caught the tarp. Good luck!
 
2 KW Unistrut based Pole Mount. It was originally sized for smaller array. I rebuilt it to hold a slightly larger array. The Poles are rectangular tubing poured in large block of concrete. The array pivots on 3/4" stainless rod. I manually set the angle once a quarter. I built it solo. Putting the panels on is interesting. I would flip the array forward, install a panel, then flip the array facing north then install a panel and then flip it back. The panels are bolted through the frames using strut nuts. In order to keep corrosion from occurring between the strut and the panels, I bought UHMW sheet and cut some "c" shaped washers and slipped them between the strut and the panel frames.

I have one corner brace installed year round but in the winter I install a second one on the other corner. I can change the array angle in about 10 minutes.

I stuck with using standard single channel strut as I had lost my source with a discount at an electrical house so I bought standard channel at Home Depot. Unistrut makes double and triple depth strut that would simplify the installation but unless someone has contractors discount its quite expensive to special order.

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Very nice setup. Thank you for sharing it.
 
I was watching the YouTube Chanel “Ambition Strikes”. They put a big array on a shipping container- it tilts for summer &winter. They welded it together.

Good Luck!
That is what I had in mind. We already have the 20' container that I plan to use. I want 12 panels on my array. However, I was making my setup way more complicated than it needed to be. After seeing their setup I'm leaning towards using larger pipe to allow the array to pivot vs the Pillow Block Bearing setup I was thinking of going with.
 
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That is what I had in mind. We already have the 20' container that I plan to use. I want 12 panels on my array. However, I was making my seyp way more complicated than it needed to be. After seeing their setup I'm leaning towards using larger pipe to allow the array to pivot vs the Pillow Block Bearing setup I was thinking of going with.
Think "pipe within a pipe" for allowing it to swivel. Playing around with various diameters and wall thickness can get you the right combination, otherwise I have laid a pipe in a length of channel iron that cups the pipe, then you just need a way to clamp it.
 
Think "pipe within a pipe" for allowing it to swivel. Playing around with various diameters and wall thickness can get you the right combination, otherwise I have laid a pipe in a length of channel iron that cups the pipe, then you just need a way to clamp it.
3" sch 40 pipe frame with 5 pieces of 3-1/2" sch 40 pipe sleeve for the bearing, harbor freight winch to change angle, 2" square tube for cross pieces.......stout as hell.
 

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Why not use a Sinclair rack or Powerfield PowerRacks? So much easier and I dare say, cheaper.

I may use some components of a company's racking system. However, I'm mounting it on the top side edge of a shipping container, as a tilt system. So I have to make it all work for my setup and needs.
 
Hit the local scrap yard for used steel, especially pipe. I have built over 50 12 module racks using this design, delivered them hundreds of miles to three different states, no failures in over 20 years, all using locally sourced material, used and new steel, so for sure less expensive then "store bought". I had many customers run the numbers, over me delivering this racked and quickly mounted array, over them buying store bought, paying freight, having to assemble and mount the module piecemeal, the cost difference was huge! I sold the PV 15% above my cost, the real money was in the racks fabrication, while still being the best bang for the buck. This also meant I could do 90% of the work in my home shop, at my own pace and when i felt like it, not repeated travels to a job site. One huge advantage, for me anyway, was I could lift the array with my boom truck with all the modules on it and prewired. No awkward work installing them on the rack off ladders or scaffolding. I used 6 to 8" sch pipe for the cross arm, 2" x 3/16" angle, and 1 1/4" x 1/8". All the lengths worked out almost perfect, meaning almost no scrap left over from standard lengths. I was knocking these out in a easy day, by noon the next day they were ready to truck to my job site and set on the already installed 8" pipe. I could be "in and out" in a couple hours if it was all prepped correctly. It was a good little sideline biz, increasing regulations put an end to it "we need to see engineering on that rack, or you need to buy an engineered rack and attach it to your un-engineered rack." That did it for me, I'm out! Mine had nothing not needed, most of the homebuilt racks I see are way overbuilt and very "busy," lots of pieces..., but most work just fine, no need for store bought unless you need it engineered.
 

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I'm in the desert just outside of Twentynine Palms, CA. I have yet to find a scrap metals place within 60 miles, even in Palm Springs/Desert Hot Springs. I bought four 14 ft lengths of aluminum PV mounting frame from Solar Penny over in Mesa, AZ one time while in that neighborhood, then realized I really need a total of 12 of them, 160-feet altogether. (I would also need about 40 - 50 more PV clamps.) When I went back, the guy had gone outta business. So I've been trying to figure out what else to use instead. I want to mount 20 250W panels flat on my 40-foot shipping container, no tilting, so that's simple, right? But where to get channel, other than spending through the nose for unistrut from HD? I haven't done welding for more than 40 years, and only a tiny bit even then, so I'm not at all proficient in welding at all (and I don't have a welding outfit right now, anyway). But I do have a local guy who could probably be enticed to weld schtuff for me, although his welder isn't very powerful. To date, everything here is totally off-grid, powered by four PVs laying on the driveway, charging six UT1300 105 A-hr batteries, driving a borrowed 3 kW 120VAC inverter. Getting the 20 panels on the container will allow me to set up a pair of EG-4 all-in-ones with two 48V battery banks for split-phase 240VAC; read: moah powah 8-D
 
I used single channel Unistrut mounted on top of 2 40ft long shipping containers. The whole Unistrut frame is about 40ft x 20ft. It has survived several 90mph wind storms and pivots on the bottom, so I can integrate a tilt mechanism later if I want to.
 

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I used single channel Unistrut mounted on top of 2 40ft long shipping containers. The whole Unistrut frame is about 40ft x 20ft. It has survived several 90mph wind storms and pivots on the bottom, so I can integrate a tilt mechanism later if I want to.
Nice piece of strut work. I see the diagonal bracing on the center supports but expect you could stiffen thing up a lot by putting in two bays of diagonal bracing on the top vertical supports. With unbraced tall slender supports like there is now My guess is that top edge is kind of floppy. Locally generated turbulence could make that move aroung more than I would be confortable with. What is your approach to isolating the struts from the aluminum panel frames?.
 
Nice piece of strut work. I see the diagonal bracing on the center supports but expect you could stiffen thing up a lot by putting in two bays of diagonal bracing on the top vertical supports. With unbraced tall slender supports like there is now My guess is that top edge is kind of floppy. Locally generated turbulence could make that move aroung more than I would be confortable with. What is your approach to isolating the struts from the aluminum panel frames?.
There are supports that go from the top straight down and from the center 45 degrees back. Then there are diagonal braces between a few of the center supports to prevent side to side motion. The strut is plenty strong without that top support, its function is only to prevent movement up and down which prevents everything from flexing. The whole structure is rock solid now.
 

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as cheap as panels have gotten just flat mount one array to the top and one to the south side. cut unistrut into 6" pieces, blob some np1 sealant under it, drill it down with neo washered tek screws,(metal roof screws) and anchor the panels to it with 3/8 strut nuts bolts and washers. that how we did my brothers 44kw array. easy peasy. you'll end up spending more on an adjustable array mount than 2 arrays flat mounted. in the winter the side array will produce the most and in the summer the top one will.
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I agree with that, and since i never priced it new before maybe a hear ago i have to wonder if unistrut didnt used to be MUCH cheaper, because as much as i love it it seems pretty pricey to build anything large out of it.
 
looks liked $35 for 10' stick of 12ga at home depot or lowes, up from $20 last time I checked, so about the same as most things post Biden...
 
I’m utilizing 60 cell panels, like 220 to 290 watt.
Rack is out of angle iron 2x2. 1-16” welded
Yes that is light and weak but will get the job done.
6 panels max out of 20’ sections
I had started with a larger design but it turned out too heavy to work with.
Panels are pinched in with self drilling tapping screws.
I will be able to move them to my roof when the time comes. They can seasonally be angled as needed with a hinged end and prop.

This will help them “stay home” if I travel or it gets windy.
As I’m off grid them being a size I can move around by myself was important
 
I’m utilizing 60 cell panels, like 220 to 290 watt.
Rack is out of angle iron 2x2. 1-16” welded
Yes that is light and weak but will get the job done.
6 panels max out of 20’ sections
I had started with a larger design but it turned out too heavy to work with.
Panels are pinched in with self drilling tapping screws.
I will be able to move them to my roof when the time comes. They can seasonally be angled as needed with a hinged end and prop.

This will help them “stay home” if I travel or it gets windy.
As I’m off grid them being a size I can move around by myself was important
Any photos of your array build?
I'm torn between wood and strut channel, just strut channel or angle iron as justification to buy a new welder ?
 
I like Unistrut (Home Depot) or the same thing Adamax (Lowe’s). And while you’re at it, if you don’t already have a good metal cutting circular saw, this is the excuse to get one. About 8 times faster than a sawzall type, cleaner cuts, straighter, 30X blade life and…… a lot more fun. Highly recommend the Milwaukee with Diablo metal blade.
As for construction, short diagonal corner braces are useless as seen in the front of the picture, but look closely at the center of the picture and you’ll a long one that reaches close to the upper corner and to the foot seen. If you do it this way you’ll need far fewer braces to make it stiff. Even if you have to make the braces longer with a four hole bracket do so. Use remnants this way too. This spray paint is a perfect match to paint cuts or if you weld, two years later it, difficult to tell what’s painted.IMG_0706.jpegIMG_0821.png
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looks liked $35 for 10' stick of 12ga at home depot or lowes, up from $20 last time I checked, so about the same as most things post Biden...
Last time i checked i could get it at like $27/stick in the shorter 1-5/8 height and i will still do that for my design but i think anyplace i was using it as just a ‘stick’ and not doing anything with the channel aspect of it id probably use something else.

But this is a guy who built a small ‘skeleton bucket’ for a tractor out of mostly T-posts so my materials opinions are probably not to be trusted.
 
When I got my unistrut was mid Covid and I had to scan HD & L every day because it was always empty. I came up a few lengths short so I had to get some from Lowe’s. The electrical contractor supply houses were 3x the price because they knew it. HD was the lowest price because they had a pricing mistake. Now due to our wonderful economy it’s $35 for 10’ they were 18 (HD) and $24(L)
 
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