diy solar

diy solar

62v of ac power is shocking me when I touch the framework on my trailer and the framework on my utility box inside the trailer.

Zwy said:
If N-G are properly bonded and there is a ground fault, it should trip a breaker.

It appears you only have 2 breakers so it should not be hard to chase. I did post how to troubleshoot this here. Break the system down into smaller sections and determine where the problem is located.

Post up a wiring diagram if you can.
Click to expand...
The current is still flowing even with the breakers completely removed but less then 1 amp so it leads me to believe that the hybrid unit is pushing it between the ground and line connection.
 
A Boss said:
The current is still flowing even with the breakers completely removed but less then 1 amp so it leads me to believe that the hybrid unit is pushing it between the ground and line connection.
Click to expand...
Probably internal, defective unit.
 
Zwy said:
Probably internal, defective unit.
Click to expand...
It is one of the cheapest Chinese units. PowMr I doubt they would warranty it but even if they did how many months until they exchange it? How risky do you think it would be to just let it ride? 60 w leak not grounded just give me a good wake up call when i touch the vehicle while I am grounded.
 
A Boss said:
It is one of the cheapest Chinese units. PowMr I doubt they would warranty it but even if they did how many months until they exchange it? How risky do you think it would be to just let it ride? 60 w leak not grounded just give me a good wake up call when i touch the vehicle while I am grounded.
Click to expand...
Current should return on the Neutral, it has to get back to source. It can be there is a parallel path back to neutral thru the ground and trailer structure.

This is what I would try. Bond the N and G at the panel and have an EGC run from the panel to the inverter case. Most cheaper inverters like my Giandel have a terminal on the outside for this purpose. I would insulate the inverter case from the trailer, a board will work. Leave the breakers out and test again for hot skin.
 
Zwy said:
This is what I would try. Bond the N and G at the panel and have an EGC run from the panel to the inverter case. Most cheaper inverters like my Giandel have a terminal on the outside for this purpose. I would insulate the inverter case from the trailer, a board will work. Leave the breakers out and test again for hot skin.
Click to expand...

It may have already been mentioned, but I missed it... the panel must also be bonded to the chassis, no?
 
sunshine_eggo said:
It may have already been mentioned, but I missed it... the panel must also be bonded to the chassis, no?
Click to expand...
At this point I'd see if it can be floating to see if it still has hot skin. That is the purpose of insulating the inverter from the chassis.

Later on, yes, bond G to trailer structure so if a ground fault occurs, it should trip the breaker.

In another thread, it was shown the trailer is disconnected from the truck. Trailer chains on earth, plastic wheel on jack. Some of these trailers had legs at the rear that can be flipped down when parked to make ground contact so the trailer doesn't tip backwards with weight on the rear. There is a path from the trailer to earth and a voltage gradient present. It is starting to make sense now.
 
Zwy said:
At this point I'd see if it can be floating to see if it still has hot skin. That is the purpose of insulating the inverter from the chassis.

Later on, yes, bond G to trailer structure so if a ground fault occurs, it should trip the breaker.

In another thread, it was shown the trailer is disconnected from the truck. Trailer chains on earth, plastic wheel on jack. Some of these trailers had legs at the rear that can be flipped down when parked to make ground contact so the trailer doesn't tip backwards with weight on the rear. There is a path from the trailer to earth and a voltage gradient present. It is starting to make sense now.
Click to expand...
Yeah I am just going to go with it I lifted all contact between trailer and earth and got a reading of about 30v then the metal in the insulated box is about 50v and on my truck there is 40v none of these areas have any known to me conductive contact with the system or each other. I had also already insulated the hybrid controller yesterday while dealing with this. None of these shorts appear to be anything like an open circuit at most pushing 1 amp and it isn't affecting me being able to run my ac 24/7 as of yet.
 
A Boss said:
Yes it is all bonded
Click to expand...
However that doesn't explain the bond inside the cabinet or to the unhooked truck. I also have a 12 volt system on the truck but don't have the inverter on just using it as backup. Honestly I think it is to much to solve on the forum I think I need to bring it to a really good Electrician and give him a little money to go over with me to identify what is going on.
 
This is a simple lack of grounding problem.
A two year apprentice should be able to figure it out.
 
Wow if that is the case maybe I could just talk to someone with that basic knowledge and they could explain what needs to be done to fix the problem.
 
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