62v of ac power is shocking me when I touch the framework on my trailer and the framework on my utility box inside the trailer.

[timselectric]

I wired the house like a home and have 2 circuits that I hook a 6 pin trailer hook up for a pigtail. I was getting shocked touching my truck and the trailer this morning. It had rained overnight and was a very humid morning. Around noon after things had dried out I unplugged and reseated the 6 pin pigtail and after that the current stopped flowing on the truck and trailer.

Trailer plugs are not rated for 120v AC.
Getting shocked is exactly what I would expect. Especially when moisture is involved.
You need the properly rated connector, that includes grounding.

 

[A Boss]

So how do regular recreational vehicles with solar systems ground? Do I need to drive a grounding rod everytime I stop? I am getting more confused and no closer to a solution to my current problem.

You are definitely missing some grounding.
And N/G bonding is either sporadic or completely missing.
All exposed metal should be grounded.
And there should always be a N/G bond. (But only one, at any time)
If you create the N/G bond in your loads panel. It will have to be disconnected, whenever shore power is connected.

 

[timselectric]

So how do regular recreational vehicles with solar systems ground? Do I need to drive a grounding rod everytime I stop? I am getting more confused and no closer to a solution to my current problem.

The grounding system begins at the N/G bond. After that, neutral and ground are kept separate. Ground will connect to everything conductive, that can be touched. A ground rod connects the earth to your grounding system. Mobile systems rarely connect the earth to their system.

 

[A Boss]

Right now, the shore power is a distant thought. In addition to the original issue I am now noticing it is the ground to metal inside my framework and metal on my truck to ground that is shocking me so I am thinking there is a short in a couple places that without a actual ground is shocking me when I become the ground. Can you tell me how to identify the exact place of the short? Or do I have something other than a short?

 

[Zwy]

So how do regular recreational vehicles with solar systems ground? Do I need to drive a grounding rod everytime I stop? I am getting more confused and no closer to a solution to my current problem.

As this is mobile, it should be a floating ground. What this means is there isn't a connection to earth.

I have to wonder how you are receiving a shock standing on earth and there isn't a connection to earth. Either you are touching the trailer/pickup with 2 points of contact creating a path for current to flow thru or there is a path to earth, the latter highly unlikely.

How is current flowing thru the trailer? Most likely you have a hot conductor shorted somewhere or the inverter has a defect allowing current to travel thru it's metal mounting and back to the neutral.

How to troubleshoot? Start by disconnecting all circuits from the panel and test. If the problem is gone, then each circuit is added back in one by one until the problem reappears. That will be the circuit you need to look at. If the problem is still present with all circuits disconnected, then you need to disconnect the breaker panel at the inverter and test again. If the problem remains, the inverter is defective.

 

[timselectric]

Right now, the shore power is a distant thought. In addition to the original issue I am now noticing it is the ground to metal inside my framework and metal on my truck to ground that is shocking me so I am thinking there is a short in a couple places that without a actual ground is shocking me when I become the ground. Can you tell me how to identify the exact place of the short? Or do I have something other than a short?

Start by turning off one circuit at a time. And check with a meter to see if the voltage still exists. This will identify the problem circuit. Then you will have to systematically break the circuit at various locations, and test again. This will help you narrow down where the problem is.

 

[A Boss]

The grounding system begins at the N/G bond. After that, neutral and ground are kept separate. Ground will connect to everything conductive, that can be touched. A ground rod connects the earth to your grounding system. Mobile systems rarely connect the earth to their system.

I hear what was said about the trailer plug being the potential issue but it is all plastic and has no conductive contact to the truck so the issue is when i collectively link the metal on the truck to ground current starts flowing. Somewhere in the system the electricity is entering the chassis of the truck and I don't know where. I have a clamp meter might there be a test I could perform to find out?

 

[timselectric]

I hear what was said about the trailer plug being the potential issue but it is all plastic and has no conductive contact to the truck so the issue is when i collectively link the metal on the truck to ground current starts flowing. Somewhere in the system the electricity is entering the chassis of the truck and I don't know where. I have a clamp meter might there be a test I could perform to find out?

The only way that you can get shocked. Is if what you are touching isn't properly grounded. Grounding it is the first priority. If everything is properly grounded. And there is a short. It will trip the breaker of the shorted circuit. Then, you will know which circuit you need to troubleshoot.

 

[Zwy]

I hear what was said about the trailer plug being the potential issue but it is all plastic and has no conductive contact to the truck so the issue is when i collectively link the metal on the truck to ground current starts flowing. Somewhere in the system the electricity is entering the chassis of the truck and I don't know where. I have a clamp meter might there be a test I could perform to find out?

The trailer plug is a clue. Do you have the truck battery connected to the trailer battery somehow?

A multimeter checking the trailer plug for AC voltage might show there is AC power entering the trailer DC wiring.

 

[Zwy]

Any more locations where the install is like this? Note red arrow. That is a big NO NO.

 

[A Boss]

That is what I thought but i did a test with my multimeter direct grounding one probe and touching truck and it read 50ac voc and about 1 amp. It must be partially the pigtail because this 6 pin controls both circuits and the problem happens with either circuit isolated but not if both are down. This still doesn't explain how current is getting into my chassis though does it?

 

[A Boss]

Any more locations where the install is like this? Note red arrow. That is a big NO NO.


View attachment 161023

No where else that was the first thing i checked when I noticed the problem and all the insulation is undamaged.

 

[Zwy]

That is what I thought but i did a test with my multimeter direct grounding one probe and touching truck and it read 50ac voc and about 1 amp. It must be partially the pigtail because this 6 pin controls both circuits and the problem happens with either circuit isolated but not if both are down. This still doesn't explain how current is getting into my chassis though does it?

I'd determine where that wire on the connector goes. It could be ground. 4 pin or 7 pin connector?

No where else that was the first thing i checked when I noticed the problem and all the insulation is undamaged.

That needs to be corrected ASAP.

 

[TacomaJoe]

What are you touching to get a shock? All metal pieces should be bonded together. When you tie the truck and trailer together, the ground wire of the 7 pin connector should bond the truck and trailer frames together.

 

[A Boss]

Trailer plugs are on the other side of wall panel.

 

[timselectric]

1. Establish a N/G bond.
2. Ground everything.

 

[Zwy]

Which pin has AC voltage? This is pin out for a 6 pin.

 

[Zwy]

I wired the house like a home and have 2 circuits that I hook a 6 pin trailer hook up for a pigtail.

I must have missed this before and saw Tim had noticed it. Do not run AC power thru a trailer connector.

Use something like this connector that locks on the pins plus has a collar that will hold the cord end to the receptacle. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FW5WY...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

 

[A Boss]

I understand what you are saying and why.

ultimately if I don't find anything else to address the actual issue I am having then I may work out this connection and see if it helps. However I have already ruled this out as being central to the issue. As in I am having the same problem with or without that connection.

 

[Zwy]

I understand what you are saying and why.

ultimately if I don't find anything else to address the actual issue I am having then I may work out this connection and see if it helps. However I have already ruled this out as being central to the issue. As in I am having the same problem with or without that connection.

If N-G are properly bonded and there is a ground fault, it should trip a breaker.

It appears you only have 2 breakers so it should not be hard to chase. I did post how to troubleshoot this here. Break the system down into smaller sections and determine where the problem is located.

Post up a wiring diagram if you can.