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62v of ac power is shocking me when I touch the framework on my trailer and the framework on my utility box inside the trailer.

A Boss

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Just installed the breaker box and new powmr hybrid unit. Solar 48 volt system turning the powmr which is the only source of ac power turns off the shock between touching my trailer and securing framework. I am hoping someone can help me with this because I don't know what is next. I was surprised by the 62volt as it is half what my system is supposed to generate.

I took the whole hybrid unit apart and checked each individual ac wire fairly thorough and found no damaged insulation. Can 120v even short t 62v?
 

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What is "securing framework"?

Do you have the inverter ground connected to the chassis of the RV and the "securing framework"? If so, remove it and recheck the voltage where you were shocked. Sounds like a bad inverter if it is putting voltage on the ground.
If you don't have it all bonded/grounded together, add grounds and recheck voltage.

Have you measured what happens the the burnt orange/copper colored inverter connected?
 
What is "securing framework"?

Do you have the inverter ground connected to the chassis of the RV and the "securing framework"? If so, remove it and recheck the voltage where you were shocked. Sounds like a bad inverter if it is putting voltage on the ground.
If you don't have it all bonded/grounded together, add grounds and recheck voltage.

Have you measured what happens the the burnt orange/copper colored inverter connected?
Securing framework is basically the unistrut I used inside the utility box to keep everything from falling out while I drive around. The trailer is also of my design out of unistrut and the side walls are panels that hinge upward like a door whenever I am parked. It is actually the trailer framework that is producing the electricity.

The aluminum panels are secured directly to the unistrut.

After doing a little research on hybrid inverters I learned that some bond the ground and neutral internally and as I had continuity on the neutral and ground wires coming out of the unit I didn't do any additional bonding.

The other inverter is still connected but has not been turned on and is just for backup if needed so I haven't tested anything on it.
 
How is the neutral being bonded to my trailer frame?

Sounds like it's not.

There should be a N-G bond. Inverter/chargers often provide this in inverter mode, but unbond it when fed with AC. Cheap inverters-only often do not have a N-G bond.

Voltage from L to N? (should be 120V)
Voltage from L to G? (should be 120V)
Voltage from G to N? (should be 0V)

If no N-G bond, common to get ~60V between L & G and ~60V between N & G.
 
100v line ground and 20 neutral ground. Should I just bond it in the panel? I do want to occasionally hook to shore power but my panels produce 100% of my needs right now. Sorry about the dumb questions I am new to all this.
Sounds like it's not.

There should be a N-G bond. Inverter/chargers often provide this in inverter mode, but unbond it when fed with AC. Cheap inverters-only often do not have a N-G bond.

Voltage from L to N? (should be 120V)
Voltage from L to G? (should be 120V)
Voltage from G to N? (should be 0V)

If no N-G bond, common to get ~60V between L & G and ~60V between N & G.
 
100v line ground and 20 neutral ground. Should I just bond it in the panel?

That will work, but...

I do want to occasionally hook to shore power

It will complicate this.

but my panels produce 100% of my needs right now. Sorry about the dumb questions I am new to all this.

Not dumb. The nuances associated with proper grounding and bonding confuse many. I have only the most tenuous grasp.

Does your inverter have a grounding lug on the chassis?

Does your inverter manual address grounding?
 
That will work, but...



It will complicate this.



Not dumb. The nuances associated with proper grounding and bonding confuse many. I have only the most tenuous grasp.

Does your inverter have a grounding lug on the chassis?

Does your inverter manual address grounding?
Will reread the manual tomorrow to see if I missed anything as far as grounding lug to chassis the trailers 12 volt lights negative goes thru the chassis. Won't hooking my 48v system or 120v ac mess up stuff?
 
Will reread the manual tomorrow to see if I missed anything as far as grounding lug to chassis the trailers 12 volt lights negative goes thru the chassis. Won't hooking my 48v system or 120v ac mess up stuff?
After rereading the manual it is very hard to tell what is and is not mentioned as electrical speak is already a language I struggle with and the english being used is poorly interpreted from mandarin. I did not see anything about grounding in the manual.
 
That's fair.

Generally speaking all system are grounded to the same ground, i.e., 12VDC, 24VDC, 120VAC, etc.
Why would you ground DC power ground to the same Ground as AC sources?
 
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100v line ground and 20 neutral ground.

N-G are not bonded or not bonded properly.

N-G should never be over 3V. Given the short distance, if N-G were properly bonded, then it would probably be under 1V.

N-G voltage plus L-G voltage should equal L-N voltage.

Should I just bond it in the panel?

Yes, it appears the inverter is not bonding N-G.

I do want to occasionally hook to shore power but my panels produce 100% of my needs right now. Sorry about the dumb questions I am new to all this.
When you move to shore power, then it will require additional hardware to make it work. Here is my experience from 20+ years ago before I became "educated". https://diysolarforum.com/threads/p...ain-breaker-due-to-distance.66653/post-839280
 
So additional issues have surfaced before I even have a solution to this issue. I actually am using this on a small trailer and the power is feeding my extended cab pickup truck that I have turned into a vanlife style rv for myself.

I wired the house like a home and have 2 circuits that I hook a 6 pin trailer hook up for a pigtail. I was getting shocked touching my truck and the trailer this morning. It had rained overnight and was a very humid morning. Around noon after things had dried out I unplugged and reseated the 6 pin pigtail and after that the current stopped flowing on the truck and trailer.
 
So additional issues have surfaced before I even have a solution to this issue. I actually am using this on a small trailer and the power is feeding my extended cab pickup truck that I have turned into a vanlife style rv for myself.

I wired the house like a home and have 2 circuits that I hook a 6 pin trailer hook up for a pigtail. I was getting shocked touching my truck and the trailer this morning. It had rained overnight and was a very humid morning. Around noon after things had dried out I unplugged and reseated the 6 pin pigtail and after that the current stopped flowing on the truck and trailer.
I should also mention that I bonded the ground and neutral in my service panel which didn't stop any current flowing.
 
So additional issues have surfaced before I even have a solution to this issue. I actually am using this on a small trailer and the power is feeding my extended cab pickup truck that I have turned into a vanlife style rv for myself.

I wired the house like a home and have 2 circuits that I hook a 6 pin trailer hook up for a pigtail. I was getting shocked touching my truck and the trailer this morning. It had rained overnight and was a very humid morning. Around noon after things had dried out I unplugged and reseated the 6 pin pigtail and after that the current stopped flowing on the truck and trailer.
You are definitely missing some grounding.
And N/G bonding is either sporadic or completely missing.
All exposed metal should be grounded.
And there should always be a N/G bond. (But only one, at any time)
If you create the N/G bond in your loads panel. It will have to be disconnected, whenever shore power is connected.
 
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