Opinions on this bus bar

I know you get what you pay for at times. I'm looking at something to handle 300A (24v). I had seen a blue sea version for twice the price as this but it looks pretty much identical to this skar busbar.

This would go between the battery bank and the shutoff. A second one on the negative line going to the shunt. The third option I was considering is the Power-in. That is the most expensive and bulky option.

....Yes please tell me "I told you so on the 24v plan" )) I think it will be my best option now that most of the research is done on my part.

Seems quite similar to the blue sea product, almost like it's coming out of the same factory. There are visual differences in quality of the copper bus bar component itself. Could be using lower quality metal stock.

It's a knockoff basically, I think. The rest of your system is probably more likely to start a fire than this piece, but will you sleep well at night with a knockoff in there.

Is 250A really not adequate? https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-MaxiBus-BusBar/dp/B006VELFDK/

It really does look like it came off the same line. I've worked assembly plants and seen generic produced along side the top tier with same exact products only different labels and packaging.

You are right sound sleep is important. Skimping $80 at this stage is probably the least of my concerns. Thanks for slapping me out of the daydream. I've pretty much come up with my parts list on paper at this point and was looking for ways to go back and compile a bit of savings as I considered the wiring and fusing parts of the build and how I'm laying things out. There are some advantages to splitting up the +/- runs of the bank but none are more important than safety. When putting cost into the factor the Power In really is a competitor.

300A@24v being the max draw limit of the system components. Usage is more like 10-50A constant possibly pulling 200A for 3+ hours at times.
I was considering 3x100A rated charge/discharge batteries=>125A terminal fuses=>600A busbar =>350A 9003E killswitch=>Lynx shut with 325A cnn fuse=>Lynx Distributor=>Loads (Phoenix 24/1200 & Multi+ 24/2000)

Another option I had considered was the Blue Sea 5196 but it was exactly 300A rated and I wasn't sure if it would even work that way. I kind of feel like it would allow me to hook it up backwards with batteries onto the fuses and disconnect onto the unfused terminal but I'm a newbie and would prefer it not be an expensive science experiment gone bad.