Need Help with Solar Edge SE7600H-US Inverter setup

Hi,

I have a Solar Edge SE7600H-US Inverter that is setup to screw me by having it feed directly to the grid. Since the electricity companies rape solar customers now I need to get some batteries and feed to them and use my power and only send what is left over.

In the documentation I cant seem to find anything on doing that it is almost like my model only works way. Please tell me that I can put a charge controller between it and the grid so that I can feed my batteries and then my house.

At this point I am paying $225 a month for my panels from them, and still paying $2500 in electricity. Oh and did i mention I over produce by 5-10%. Right now I would be saving money to stop sending and pay for my use with the regular rate. with Rythm I pay 20 Cents Kwh for every one i use (not net) and get 10 cents for what i send.

Please help

Sounds like you didn't do your homework before jumping into solar. I believe you can buy a Solar edge component that allows you to modify a grid only inverter to one that works with batteries. Have you priced batteries yet? 10K to 15K worth it?

I have the same inverter, and I have settled on AC coupling it to an EG4 18kpv hybrid inverter.

The issue with the SE inverter is that you likely have optimizers, and you cannot use those optimizers with other inverters, so you cannot just replace the SE inverter with a hybrid inverter and hit the ground running.

You can go through my comment/post history for more info. Ignore anything talking about a SolarEdge key, because that doesn't exist anymore and changed my plan to AC coupling.

If this is a lease system, you can't touch anything as you do not own it. Texas has net-metering so selling to the grid shouldn't be an issue unless the lessor didn't sign up with your electrical provider to be a net-meter installation??

I also have Solaredge 7600H that I self-installed. My plan is to bring the AC through the Gen-In of a Solark 15k, and then I plan to add more DC PV. I am still deciding which battery to go with. Unfortunately, installation of the Solark 15k will cost me a lot, because I am going to hire an electrician to also rewire my Challenger main electrical panel at the same time. And, of course, the batteries and inverters cost a lot, but I am justifying this cost by saying it will prepare me for future grid outages and challenges.

Mike 134 said:

Sounds like you didn't do your homework before jumping into solar. I believe you can buy a Solar edge component that allows you to modify a grid only inverter to one that works with batteries. Have you priced batteries yet? 10K to 15K worth it?

Click to expand...

No I was high pressure sold into the system and lied to by the company. My system bypasses my house except for a home for the solar panels they dont even ever feed my house.

I also found out that i have 40x290w panels and my inverter maxes out at 7.6kw in my production i have a max net of 7.59 as seen for years, so not only did they lie to me they charged me for extra panels that never go anywhere.

I am planning on using a 10,000 watt / 20,000 watt peak hybrid inverter that will take 11.2kw Solar panels, and 15.36kwh in batteries.

should I just bypass the Solar edge Inverter and use the new one ?

Mike 134 said:

Sounds like you didn't do your homework before jumping into solar. I believe you can buy a Solar edge component that allows you to modify a grid only inverter to one that works with batteries. Have you priced batteries yet? 10K to 15K worth it?

Click to expand...

what is the component that lets you bypass the solar edge inverter ? especially since its not inline ?

y0bailey said:

I have the same inverter, and I have settled on AC coupling it to an EG4 18kpv hybrid inverter.

The issue with the SE inverter is that you likely have optimizers, and you cannot use those optimizers with other inverters, so you cannot just replace the SE inverter with a hybrid inverter and hit the ground running.

You can go through my comment/post history for more info. Ignore anything talking about a SolarEdge key, because that doesn't exist anymore and changed my plan to AC coupling.

Click to expand...

yes that is what i was worried about how much I would lose bypassing the optimizers, but I also found out that I have more panels than the inverter can deal with so i have a flat solar curve for 3-5 hrs a day. dont know how to get that power I am losing and use AC-coupled battery setup

MikeSpeegle said:

yes that is what i was worried about how much I would lose bypassing the optimizers, but I also found out that I have more panels than the inverter can deal with so i have a flat solar curve for 3-5 hrs a day. dont know how to get that power I am losing and use AC-coupled battery setup

Click to expand...

You could rewire your strings to the size the SolarEdge can handle, then with the panels you took away you could pull optimizers off and run the new optimizer-less panels directly into the 18kpv

So AC couple the SolarEdge with the appropriate number of panels and then take overflow panels without optimizers directly into the eg4.

But if they are on your roof when you remove optimizers you remove rapid shutdown.... So you need to think if you care about that and if you do you'll have to add shutdown back in with non-solaredge optimizers (tigo brand is the go to based on my research)

The problem is that the solar edge sends to the grid and I get 10 cents a kWh but pay over 20 cents kWh I just bought 26 kWh of batteries and a new inverter so changes a coming.

If you put your new inverter between the grid and Solar Edge inverter, the new inverter should be able to charge your battery from the Solar Edge output.
You'll want to make sure the new inverter has that functionality.
Or replace the Solar Edge and optimizers.

That might go beyond me I will need help with the inverter part.

What is the regular rate for non-solar customers?

This is a loan and not a lease?

You are spending $2500/month in electricity or $2500/year?

To avoid clipping you need a bigger SE inverter. Probably cheapest to buy Grid Tie SE inverter and then use a different hybrid via AC coupling unless somehow SE has cheap batteries.

I would pause any orders that have not arrived yet, I think you need to wait until you get help analyzing current system & costs before jumping into more stuff.

y0bailey said:

But if they are on your roof when you remove optimizers you remove rapid shutdown.... So you need to think if you care about that and if you do you'll have to add shutdown back in with non-solaredge optimizers (tigo brand is the go to based on my research)

Click to expand...

TIGO has a lawsuit right now against SunSpec (the rest of the industry) on Rapid Shutdown patents / does not seem to be SunSpec protocol compatible, so I'm not so sure Tigo is the right brand

I have ordered and received an

PowMr 10000W continuous and 20000W peak Split-Phase Solar Hybrid Inverter Pure Sine Wave 48V to 120/240V AC, Built-in Dual 100A MPPT Charger, 120A AC Charger, Can Batteryless Run + Wi fi Mudule

My AC has a tested 11,200W startup 240V approx 47amp. And continuous draw of 240V 20-30amp for 4,800W to 7,200W full AC he saw around 6,000W

8 Vestwoods 12.8v 250 AH to be ran 2 sets of 4 series for a combined 48v 500ah @ 25.6 kWh (possibly adding 4 more for 38.4 kWh 3 sets in parallel of 4 x 12.8v 250 ah for combined 51.2v 750ah)

1 — Victron Energy SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth)

Considering 2/0 equal length between battery to battery and 4/0 to shunt.

Already own:

40 x 290w panels — 11.6 kWh

7600 Solar edge inverter which only handles 7.6 kWh. Most of my solar day is flat 7.59 kWh since this maximum of the inverter (see attached picture of sunny day)

(***This inverter will be bypassed***)

I am comfortable setting up the board and batteries to inverter where my comfortable leaves is on the Alternating Current side. Will need help there.

I was taken advantage before by spending $40,000 with tax refund $13,000 tax rebate for the $1500 Solar edge inverter and not sure on cost of panels.

My additional added equipment without tackling or costing the AC side is less than $4500 at 25.6 kWh of batteries inverter and shunt shelves and cables

Please any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

zanydroid said:

What is the regular rate for non-solar customers?

This is a loan and not a lease?

You are spending $2500/month in electricity or $2500/year?

To avoid clipping you need a bigger SE inverter. Probably cheapest to buy Grid Tie SE inverter and then use a different hybrid via AC coupling unless somehow SE has cheap batteries.

I would pause any orders that have not arrived yet, I think you need to wait until you get help analyzing current system & costs before jumping into more stuff.

Click to expand...

I pay a load of $225 month and $2500 current in electricity which is more now than I paid before getting solar

How do you plan to bypass the SE inverter?

I doubt the PowMr is listed for grid tie (and no hybrid on the market will be with those batteries) and it seems scary/risky to combine 12V batteries in a size big enough for a house. Did you at least verify that the 12v BMS is tolerant of being built into a 48v pack?

You will need to keep using the SE unless you remove the optimizers and replace them with RSD. Forget any discussion out there about the compatibility stuff from SE like unlock Key, they don’t provide it anymore.

Ok, the $2000 bill. That raises some red flags around whether your account was properly transitioned to solar (EG smart meter configured for net metering mode or production meter properly installed), and whether that is a regular monthly bill or an annual true up bill. Im sure people would help double check your math and explain the bills if you share those (with personal information blacked out). As well as send the regular and solar rates. Right now I think folks have left or are thinking of leaving the thread because not everything adds up and they prefer to help when the project analysis is known to be reasonably solid.

When they call the PowMr a hybrid, does that include AC coupling and grid forming? It’s not guaranteed and must be verified on each. What is the forum’s experience with this based on your research?

The AC connection from inverter to grid or critical loads panel is among the simpler parts of code and theory to understand, so it isn’t easy to accept that you are at the point where that is all you need help with.

y0bailey said:

How do you plan to bypass the SE inverter?

Click to expand...

Unplug it.