I was too but I'm not sure with the latest comment from RCinFLAI was reading this thread as reversing grid and load initial installation. Seems quite plausible.
I was too but I'm not sure with the latest comment from RCinFLAI was reading this thread as reversing grid and load initial installation. Seems quite plausible.
Alot of that I did already do, and as far as TOU stuff is why I wanted to do a factory reset of all the settings but it requires a password, I'll check into that manually.If it were me, I would step back and check the basics. A lot of assumptions tossed around already for just starting to troubleshoot.
Please make sure you check some videos to make sure you don't do some damage (I get nervous giving people ideas...), but there are some screws by the MPPT inputs that you can check voltage on with a known good meter. That way you can see if there is actually some solar input getting to the unit, and not some type of other wiring fault. Check all switches and breakers. Possibly a complete power off, and just start with one source.
If you don't take it one step at a time, its just a frantic game of hunting for problems all over the place.
Once you are done with all the connections, carefully check settings one at a time. Things like TOU settings can make a unit not use the battery. In that case you would only see grid pass-through, like you are seeing now.
Slow and steady.
This thread did remind me of some basics to go back and check like the power button wiring and TOU settings that you mentioned, will check into it when I'm messing with it again. Although I don't see why in TOU the unit would be off? But I've never actually had to mess with that as I've done offgrid and grid tie with no backfeed systems with these solarks so farIf it were me, I would step back and check the basics. A lot of assumptions tossed around already for just starting to troubleshoot.
Please make sure you check some videos to make sure you don't do some damage (I get nervous giving people ideas...), but there are some screws by the MPPT inputs that you can check voltage on with a known good meter. That way you can see if there is actually some solar input getting to the unit, and not some type of other wiring fault. Check all switches and breakers. Possibly a complete power off, and just start with one source.
If you don't take it one step at a time, its just a frantic game of hunting for problems all over the place.
Once you are done with all the connections, carefully check settings one at a time. Things like TOU settings can make a unit not use the battery. In that case you would only see grid pass-through, like you are seeing now.
Slow and steady.
That is a good point. I don't think it ever says off due to TOU, but it could not charge or discharge due to those settings. If I recall correctly, on mine the power button was lit when it said off on the screen.This thread did remind me of some basics to go back and check like the power button wiring and TOU settings that you mentioned, will check into it when I'm messing with it again. Although I don't see why in TOU the unit would be off? But I've never actually had to mess with that as I've done offgrid and grid tie with no backfeed systems with these solarks so far
I updated to reflect that it's fixed.Please edit the title on this thread to reflect what really was going on...
I haven't tried connecting to wifi but I imagine that will work fine now too, will likely upgrade when it's ready to be installed so it matches any potential units in parallel.Update the firmware now that it is online.
I honestly don't know what was really going on, nothing I changed should of really fixed it, but maybe I don't understand the grid selling setting properly or something.Please edit the title on this thread to reflect what really was going on...
Can you explain what that does exactly? After getting it to work I boxed it up for now as I was testing in place of another in use solarkTurn the "Activate battery" off - only for badly defective batteries.
It is meant to bring batteries back slowly after the BMS has shutdown charge/discharge due to low voltage, and should only be turned on for that reason as it limits the charging ampsCan you explain what that does exactly? After getting it to work I boxed it up for now as I was testing in place of another in use solark
Great thanks for educating me! I'll need to make sure I didn't enable it on any of my other setups.It is meant to bring batteries back slowly after the BMS has shutdown charge/discharge due to low voltage, and should only be turned on for that reason as it limits the charging amps
Hi House and Lyd,It is meant to bring batteries back slowly after the BMS has shutdown charge/discharge due to low voltage, and should only be turned on for that reason as it limits the charging amps
Turn the "Activate battery" off - only for badly defective batteries.
Hi House and Lyd,
The 15k manual says differently. Thoughts?
"Activate Battery: This option MUST be selected if the system has batteries, especially with Lithium batteries."
Hmm... that last part, I wonder if that was part of what caused some of my issues with that unit.I have always had "Activate Battery" on, since the day of installation. I have never had lower charging/discharging current?
I just went out and unchecked it on my machine. I guess I'll find out what happens ?
I know if the "BMS Lithium Batt" option is unchecked, it will ignore the battery entirely and only send PV to Load or send it back to the Grid.