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Looks like you are making great progress. Wondering if you actually need to offset the stool all the way to one end? is it possible to make it 'thinner' + carve the base a little to make room for the stud base?

Are you recommending a different brand? Or different type of breaker? I could not find a ‘real dc breaker’

Very nice work, @bryn I can definitely appreciate the hard work behind this, as I went through this process just a couple of years ago. Some feedbacks - 1. I noticed the section of rod tunnel is square, there are 2 downsides of this - a) it uses more material, takes longer to print, without...

I do want to use a fuse because the manual reset breaker also serves as the true kill switch for storage. I do have a beefy 300A switch but that one doesn't disconnect propane/co detector and trailer brake， for safety reason. when I put the trailer in storage/winterization, I charge the battery...

it's significantly warmer, You can still touch it, I think it was about 50-60c

This is the one that I use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y454WHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1 on this. I could have move the battery to post axle, so it can be placed right next to inverter. but that changes weight distribution and I don't want that.

I want to give an update on this. as I promised when I started this thread. First I did make a mistake, I thought 2 4awg wires = 1 2awg wire. I probably got this wrong idea from nail gauges, for which the width is what matters, but for wires, it's the area and 2 4awg wires are equivalent to a...

I ran 2000w inverter with 13500btu AC unit, at 185a for about 15minutes, no heat at all, I used a temp gun to read every conductor inside and outside the battery. The only thing got fairly hot was a 250a breaker.

I built mine (12v 304ah, 4s, 200A JBD BMS) with TEMCo 1 awg wire, works great with 2000w Renogy inverter. I do run 2/0 awg from battery to inverter though. I only run about 6" 1 awg wire total inside the battery, the JBD 200A layout makes wiring very easy. I think 1 awg actually gives pretty...

So in that case, just play with the parameter won't help as it's outside the range that parameter was designed for . However you can ask your son to adjust the design by doing one of the following 1. narrow the stool the firewall sits on, it doesn't need to be that wide. I think 8-10mm should...

You need to adjust this parameter. looking at you picture, seems like the 'stool' on which the FR4 firewall sits needs to be narrowed a bit. Hope this helps.

Looks great!

The Fustion 360 file I included is fully parametric, your son should be able to change the new cell dimension with a few clicks. see the screenshot below.

There wasn't much special slicer settings, 0.2mm layer height, 15% infill. There are 2 things I'd recommend 1. You will need to have your extruder stepper calibrated. I have done many, many smaller prints in past 2 years and never had any issues. but when I print the first battery cell section...

Glad you liked it, I think all parts should fit ender 3's bed, except for the top cover, which barely fit my CR-10. However, you can slice the top into 2, it should work, as each would still be hold in place by 4 screws. When I have time I will create a Ender3 export.

See this post for link to the project's github page Thank you all for being very patient with this https://diysolarforum.com/threads/battery-300-design-open-sourced.34832/

Hi all, A few months ago I made a post about my 3D printed battery design based on EVE 304ah cells. The project was completed a month ago but I have been very busy with work since then. I just managed to find some time to push the design to Github...

Thank you @bryn for liking my design and the suggestion! The challenge I am facing is not the terminals themselves, but how to connect them to cell stud and bms negative in a very tight space. Also I do not want to bolt the terminal directly onto the cell stud as it would damage the cell in the...

Just want to give a quick update on my progress. The printed parts (4 cell sections, 2 end caps, 1 top cover and 4 mounting feet) are completed, with 4 3/8" steel rods the case is very strong. The 4mm wall thickness seems to be a bit overkill, 3mm probably is enough. So the overall design is...

@bryn I was waiting for copper bar and 1 awg wire to arrive for fitting verification. I will start the printing tomorrow, and I would take a few days to complete. Definitely will post update here, no matter the result is.

The mounting option is where this design truly shines, with a bit longer rod at the bottom, I could add a printed clamp at the end, even hold down 2 batteries side by side. or if I am length constrained, I can put a tab with screw hole on the side, the possibility is endless :) My slicer says...

For functional parts, I use 15-20% honeycomb almost exclusively. it offers far better strength than the default one. For critical parts involves fasteners, I also use different infill at point of contact (in Pusaslicer), but in most case this is not necessary. I found counter sink screw holes...

Definitely would consider a vented top. I already designed a 3mm clearance between heatsink and top cover opening for this purpose. On printing, I have never printed functional parts as big as this one, One thing I worry is the expansion/contraction causing parts not fitting each other, or the...

Hi @bryn, thanks! I use Fusion 360 for the design. it's free for non-commerical use. A couple of weeks ago temporarily put the cells and BMS together in my travel trailer, and ran 13500BTU A/C (in heat pump mode) for 30 min or so, It draws about 1400w, for about 5 minutes I also turned on a...

Thanks! I borrow the idea from https://battlebornbatteries.com/product/200ah-12v-gc2-lifepo4-heated-battery-kit-2-batteries/ I like this design (terminals with offset) as you can run a straight copper bar to parallel multiple batteries. You are right about the exposed BMS heatsink, it's...

Thank you, I will be using PLA or PLA+ PETG or other material prints too slow.

A lot of consideration went into the strength of the case, it's actually supported by 4 3/8 rods. so absolute you will be able to lift it.

OK, just finished designing of this battery case, I named it '300', as it's 300ah and fairly spartan :) Waiting for a couple of components to arrive before I kick off printing. If all works well, I will put the design on github. Wish me luck :) Cells: EVE 304ah BMS: JBD 200A

I am not sure where you picked up I was defending the scammer. If you are going the DIY route, you need to have some basic understanding of the technology - understand 420ah with the same dimension of 280ah is not possible doesn't require anywhere near 100% researched.

@JG51Ogg Sorry to hear the bad experience you had :(. But seriously. 8 420ah Grade A cells for $1186, What else were you expecting other than a scam? Did you seriously expecting this seller, not only willing to sell you something at loss, but also had an R&D that blow away all battery companies...

@smoothJoey Not every scenario calls for a Victron Multiplus. in many case not only you need to throw away existing inverter, you also need to come up with how to connect DC fuse boxes and AC breakers, so you most likely end up with keeping the converter panel anyways. And that's when you...

You should be able to just replace your WFCO 8955's main board with 8950L2 MBA board, which has lithium profile. works great for me.

@PeteW Here is what I did with my 16' Airstream. I custom designed and made the bracket out of 1.5 x 1/8, 3 x 1/8 aluminum angle. Then the bottom bracket is mounted on roof with 3M VHB tape, then sealed with Sikaflex sealant. I am very happy with the brackets as they allow me to lose 2 nuts...

Thanks, Kapton tape the sensor between vent and terminal was exactly what I did for my first build a year ago, somehow I am under impression that's not the right way, might when Will mention this in his review video, he meant put sensor between cells was bad idea, as they could be crushed or...