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In my experience, I would rephrase the text so any 8-year can understand it. Many people in CN speak/read limited to no English, or use translation apps. In my experience, keeping text simple and basic is more likely they can understand it. I've had examples in the past when dealing with...

To me that would indicate 280Ah batteries which are sold as 320Ah. That has been a common practice 'yeah they generally archieve 320Ah so we just sell them as 320'.. In reality, any decent cell reaches slightly over their rated capacity, especially at the first cycles. I would claim them to...

100/12 = 8.3A Add inverter losses and you're more like 10A. If the 100W is the load with an adapter (eg a laptop) the mains load will be higher, add 10-15% if the 100W is not the load on the input side of the device

In Europe, eg Pekaway and Tigerexped has them, both providing 100w On Ali, i they are limited to 65w but in reality more like 40W max, and a lot of them require 24V in order to output 20V usb pd. Only a few include a boost from 12V...

For EU, you might consider Nkon or GWL.

Agree, Mikrotik LHG (Especially the LHG LTE18) is a beast (LTE CAT18) but it for a fixed install. However if I understand the original poster, he wants to be remote, to get decent speed depending on the location. For a RV a bulky dish-like unit isn't the best option imho.

Use a modern router (with modern LTE CAT, so it can benefit from carrier aggregation which does make a lot of sense in more rural areas). Also, use a good external antenna. For a mobile setup a omni, eg a Poynting Mimo. For a stationary setup a directional antenna is even better, that allows...

Bin that breaker, thats one of the crappy ones. Replace with a proper fuse (And fuse near the batteries. There is no point of fusing the end of the wire). For the wires, I would upgrade to 16mm2 especially on a 1.5-2m length. (With a fuse at the begin of the wire). The inverter: Can't see the...

Which 40A circuit breaker? The issue your describing exactly looks like the ones I would expect from a crappy cheap breaker. Is it a genuine Bussman/Eaton/Bluesea or a cheap fake one? And which wire length/size? On a 50A MPPT I would run 16mm2 wire And which inverter? A REAL 4000W inverter...

To be honest, my fist assumption was you did something wrong. It wasn't untill I found the crappy Apexium manual to find out the mistakes you made were based on wrong information, and I don't think you can blame yourself for following a mfg manual. It's reasonable to assume a manual is...

Fully agree, I do recommend overpaneling, since the max of the panels is most of the time not archieved. There is a sensible limit to the amount of overpaneling. In the example I posted (3000Wp) thats not making sense (unless you want to charge with moonlight)... Generally, I wouldn't hesistate...

Yes, but you are limited in the current as well. PV input has limits for both voltage AND current. A MPPT works by tracking the maximium power point. This also can result in lowering the voltage to get a higher amps (20V x 5A is still more power than 40V / 2A).. thats the principe of a MPPT...

Both mistakes are not in the Seplos video: the PEM nut is facing backwards, not part of the circuit, and there is NO washer between busbar and fuse. (in their video the busbar is on top of the fuse, but that doesn't matter) Only advantage of the fuse on top is easier access when you need to...

Flip the busbar over, replace the fuse holder (a local autopart store might have a replacement fuse holder). alternatively you can remove 1 of the terminals and use that hole as entry for a wire, crimp a lug on it and connect it to the busbar from the BMS. (Wouldn't recommend that as final...

I think the busbar only has gotten very hot. Carefully clean, (very) gentle sand the contacts and if preferred renew heatshrink. I would try replacing the fuseholder and positive terminals (You can buy them separate, if I remember correctly they are Futronics connectors), or you can replace...

Couldn't resist looking into the manual and I agree with the note from @Lt.Dan about the terminals. The manual is, imho, wrong here. To me, the busbars should make direct contact to the terminals busbar, and the current should NOT be passing the (fixed) nut. That nut/thread is only to secure...

I haven't seen the manual, I only made conclusions based on the images you've provided. I agree the images you posted DO look there is a washer between the busbar and the fuse, which is wrong, unless they are 100% conductive like copper. I'll check the manual (getting curious now) later this...

What was the load pulled from/to the batteries? And were they nuts torqued to spec? The images shown heat, especially at the input side of the fuse holder. That only occurs if there is resistance, commonly caused by not properly torquing or bad crimps. In this case there are no crimps, so that...

How come it even CAN melt? That clearly indicates a highly wrong and even dangerous design. It should trip a fuse/breaker if the wires are loaded out of spec. You don't have to have a degree in Victronology. Its just there to prevent anyone messing up without knowing what they are doing. If its...

https://roamer.com/products/home also has server rack batteries

Both water and stone are already in use. In Belgium for example the 'brick' heaters used to be pretty common, warm them up overnight (cheap tariff) and slowly discharge the heat during the day. In other countries they are less common. Main stone types are soapstone or clay tiles...

Thats why there is (/should) be a fuse close to the battery. Victron Smartshunts come with 2 fused leads for these purposes. There is no danger, first a short shouldn't occur when properly designed and installed (wire shouldn't come loose by accident) and even if it did, wire/fuses should be...

Solar output is very low nowadays. At this moment its very cloudy here, rain/light snow. So light is not much. And still its brighter than some of the previous days. The solar array on our company roof (160 panels of 410Wp, total of 65kWp), has only peaked at 4.5kW today.. which is like 6%. And...

You can consider increasing the batteries, preferably LiFePO4, and add a beefy charger. Increasing the battery capacity will only extend the period till they are empty: You still need to source the juice somewhere and sun isnt going to do that in wintertime. But when shopping you can hookup...

Why not add an active balancer and let that do its work? Might take a while but you don't have to take it apart. I do see tapped threads already on the busbars so its just a matter of connecting.

Maybe 21700 cells. Plenty of batteries with cylindrical cells, including some 'more known' sellers (eg Liontron in mainland Europe) Prismatic has better energy density, but many are limited to 1C discharge. So with a 100Ah battery that would workout to 100A. Cylindrical cells can have 1.5-3C...

I'm only wondering how they figured out to blame the batteries. To me it looks like 'ow, lithium, yes, thats dangerous, thus is the source' If I see the images, it looks the batteries are still fine, as also mentioned in that German topic and here. To me, it seems quite unlikely the house is...

I'm interested in those as well. However, since i'm in an appartment block getting panels on the roof is difficult (shared roof, so multiple owners) Now we are looking into a solution allowing multiple appartments to use their own solar panels. So the plan is running the inverters to different...

Does it need to be a Victron? Meanwell has nice options as well, which are cheaper as well. https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=SD-350 https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=SD-500 The SD-350C can provide 27A at 12V (approx $120) The SD-500L-12 is 40A...

The balancer is a passive one, so that takes forever. Also when only balancing during charge it can take even longer. I would recommend setting the balancer start voltage to 3375 or so and disable balance only during charging (so it continous balances) and leave that for a few days

Not sure if they are available in the US (don't think so) but there are slim batteries, it's only a matter of finding which OEM provides those... https://www.ective.de/lc-serie-slim

Vevor is just some seller relabeling stuff, don't expect much in terms of support. Also this worries me: Apart from getting a replacement, I highly would recommend connecting it properly. This should never be possible if the wires were properly sized AND FUSED. In this situation you might...

Seems someone is in love with fuses and switches.. Why fusing and swithing both positive and negative? And more important: Where are those wires going to? The batteries are in series, using a single battery to power any 12V loads will kill the battery balance.

Yeah, annoys me also. I've been hacked!!! no, You were to stupid to use difficult passwords and used the same easy password on all websites... Did they gain access to your computer using an exploit, and recovered they your stored passwords? Yes, you're hacked. If not, you were just dumb, they...