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Thank you both for your quick reply. I appreciate it very much! Got it hooked up, and all is good now!

I'm installing a Victron 500A smart shunt into my system, however, I'm not sure which post the charge controller negative cable should be attached? Common battery neg post or the other side of the shunt? The picture depicts only the neg lines. All positives are attached to 1 common distribution...

See steve s' bad-ass schematic? Where the batteries all connect to the 2 distribution post/busbars, that is where you'd connect your converter to. I'd say a 40 or 50A inline fuse between the battery and converter would be sufficient to protect that circuit.

I may misunderstand your schematic, but it looks like you're wanting to power some 12V devices, hence the 24V to 12V buck converter? I have 2 of these wired to my 24V battery bank common bus bars...

I bought these 2 in March of this year to put into series for my 24V system, saved about $100 instead of just buying a single 24V200Ah battery. Not to mention the size of a single Ampere Time12V200Ah battery is nearly the same as a single Ampere Time24V200ah battery. They've been cycled maybe...

About that heltic active balancer... Not to get off topic, but I'm on my second one, and I have yet to meter anything over 900mA - 1 Amp during balancing, even when the cells are dramatically unbalanced. It's supposed to be a "5A" version, but I call bs on that. I've double checked terminal...

changed cell positions within the pack.. problem follows cell. So yup, I've got 2 dud cells. Good news is however, I broke out 4 of the good cells and added another 200Ah to my 12V milkcrate boondock camping setup. I think I'll use the 2 duds as target practice on my next outing.. Won't that be...

That could work too. I have a 24V system, but they do offer that flavor. I just wish I could find strictly an inverter. Don't need the inverter/charger/hybrid combos, nor anything tied to the grid. I think this particular one requires to be plugged into a 240Vac source for pass thru and charging...

Power Factor Correction. Ok.. thanks for that. Looking into that now! Research never ends..lol

Yea, I'm posting over there as well. There may be a specific nissan quirk about MSW vs PSW, but really, makes me wonder if most EV's care or not. A quick check, shows an AIMS 5000W 240VAC MSW for $589 and an AIMS 6000W 120/240 PSW for $1816, so yea.. that extra grand is kinda important!

My L2 EVSE is a 15A version plugged into a 240V dryer plug in my garage, but I really want to charge it off Grid, I have plenty of battery and panels. My thinking was, since I'm not really powering sensitive electronics, and the car has its own onboard charger, it would act as the middleman...

I'm considering getting a dedicated 4000 or 6000W 240V inverter strictly for L2 charging of my 2015 Leaf. Any reason I can't opt for a modified sinewave unit instead of full blown PSW? The cost difference is big, and it will be strictly for charging batteries. Is it critical?

I did top balance, yes. Had em offline for about 2 weeks on my bench and took my time. And yes, I'm not the kind to always charge to 100% every time. By 28V I guess they're close enough. I guess I was just trying to figure out how to lower the current once they start getting past 90% or so SOC...

I have an 8S 200Ah DIY pack, and its become clear that I have 2 problem cells. 1 in particular reaches 3.65V while the others are still just a tad over 3.4V. Obviously the BMS charging switch turns off. Once the 1 cell, and the rest of the pack settles down, the charging switch turns back on...

Start with your controller settings first. Here's a link to assist: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/recommended-charge-profile-for-diy-lifepo4-batteries-sticky-post.5101/ Do you have enough power coming from your panels to engage the controller?

I appreciate your input. Thx

Mind expanding? Wrong Type? Wrong Manufacturer? Wrong rating?

My old setup was a 40A scc to 24V200Ah bank with one of those t-tocas 50A circuit breakers in between. Recently now I've replaced the 40A scc with a 100A unit feeding a 24V400Ah bank, and I'll need a 120A breaker inbetween? Which has got me thinking, breakers protect wires and the equipment, but...

FWIW.. I really enjoyed this thread!! Everyone has a different approach.. very cool!! That said, I believe there was some offer of beers??..?

Cool, ill swing by there and have a look see. So, your 2012 DOES have chademo. My 2015 SV does not! Only J1772. I wonder if that means my onboard charger is the 3.3kw or the 6.6kw just without the optional chademo connector?

I did not use the app to find the stations, but it turns out the two I hit were fast charge stations only. My Luck! My leaf only has the j1772 connector, so its L1 or L2 only for me! It came with the 110/120V trickle charge unit, (which actually charges at 11.5A) and I bought a L2 Lectron 240V...

So, I hit 2 different charge stations yesterday, one in the walmart superstore in henderson, and another at one of the terrible Herbst gas stations, neither one had the right connector! Mine is the j1772 connector. So I have not been able to charge anywhere but at home, which is ok, because its...

I used a small powerstrip to plug into the inverter for convenience, but basically, I used one of those male extension cord repair ends, jumpered the ground and neutral, plugged it into the strip, then plugged my charger into the strip, and all was good.

Its the 24kWh battery. I don't think I wanna know how much it costs to replace a leaf battery though. is it crazy $$?

Android check, OBD2, nope. I think, 6 bars? Is it the bars on the left? 6 out of 10? Plus im getting that little yellow message alert too, but don't know how to retrieve what is causing it..

Hmm.. well, this is a former AZ leaf, and I am in Vegas, so the heat will def be a factor. I'll look into this LeafSpy Pro.. do I need any hardware for it?

Well damn. my 2015 when new, says 85miles on full charge, so now its 7yrs old so that brings me down to 40 miles@10%. If I go with a 7.5% degradation, that leaves me at 49.25 miles. I'm wondering how I can get an accurate reading of what a full charge gets me now. When will the leaf actually...

Hmm.. so a faster (L2) charge to get the batteries to 100% SOC gives more mileage? More capacity? VS a slower but much longer charge? Odd. And good practice to run the battery down quite a bit before charging, as opposed to topping off every day? Anyway, if there is a different battery for that...

After a full L1 charge overnight, mine reports only 74 miles @ 100% fully charged. How did you get 110 miles?! Even the literature for the 2015 says only 85 miles after fully charged. I'm guessing these things loose capacity after being cycled for years and years? Anyone know much is expected...

Bought from Carvana. 2015 SV Hatchback 4dr with 50,348 miles -$16,990 list price. I bought an add'l 1yr extended plan for $1800, so out the door taxes, registration etc. just a hair over $20,000. I'm still on my 7 day trial where i can send it back for full refund though, so I've really gotta...

It is! Thank you. It helps me dial things in. My L1 charger does NOT like my inverters but is ok with shore power. I suspect there is some kind of grounding thing going on w the inverters. Not necessarily a failure, but rather that is how they are designed? And my leaf has some kinda safety...

Not necessarily a solar issue, but I hope someone can help. Bought a used 2015 Nissan Leaf 2 days ago (Carvana with 7 days to try it out) The included L1 120V charging cable I plug it into my Giandel 2000/4000W PSW inverter, and I get a flashing green light on the cable brick. It will not...

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/HOMELYLIFE-Voltage-Reducer-Converter-Transformer/dp/B07V8J6BJQ/ They have 5A 10A 15A all the way up to a 30A unit Input range is 30 to 60V. Maybe your fridge and water pump are pulling more amps than the xformer is rated for? For instance, if they both kick on...

Yea, it just didn't seem right to me. I'll just follow best practice on this one. Surprised WIndyNation has their name on this one. Ironically, 99% of all my wiring is made up of WindyNation welding cable. Their cables rock!!!

It "looks" copperish.. but pretty shiny.. almost brass. I'll likely go without any washer and just tighten my known copper lug against the fuse housing.