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Sounds almost like it's trying to maintain the starter batt off solar but the inputs/outputs are switched.

I agree that solar is an expensive capital expense for the Wh delivered. In my case I encamp in 14d increments before relocating, so a passive form of power harvest is rather nice. I am also grateful when other campers within earshot have made similar choices about silent power generation...

Luckily the documentation stays online 24/7. :) Controllers charging lead chemistries use temp to "compensate" (adjust) the actual charging voltage: colder lead needs higher voltage, warmer needs less. Li does not need/want that. If you are using an Li profile it is likely that the...

I agree with Dave; the solar only requires configuration changes. Without knowing what the other three systems are it's hard to say. Here's my take on such a transition.

My understanding is with hwy77; the rating is frontside only and therefore no "loss" when there is no backside insolation. Just monetary loss assuming we paid more. :-) Depends on location. Nearby water/snow or other bright surface could put meaningful light on the backside of airgapped...

The 1212-series charger mentioned in the first post is normally off until it gets power from D+ anyhow: "The DC-DC will not power on or operate until the D+ ignition cable is connected." - p11 of the manual. I suppose it is possible that a voltage-sensing DC-DC that is powered by the starter...

Reason: newbies think flexible panels are way kewl: "I will walk on them, put my BBQ on them, fold them like origami!"

Yes, that can work. Caveats below. Maybe, but that won't affect the system. :-) The important questions, IMO, are: is the Crafter's alternator going to be happy with whatever the wall charger is pulling (plus inverter losses?) is the alternator a plain single-voltage type or is it a...

I sized my system to make sufficient power to meet minimums year-'round. In the past 30 days there were two days (consecutive) where the bank stayed in Bulk all day (did not reach Absorption voltage) but did meet needs. I think that would meet your definition of coasting. IIRC the longest run...

During my build I wanted a configurable shore power converter/charger to keep the FLA optimally charged while I was shopping for panels. I gave up trying find something that met my needs and within my budget. I ended up running a 24v meanwell-type power supply into the MPPT PV input. Worked...

OP appears to be talking about the DCC50S, which has a 25v input limit. Renogy has released a new version (RBC2125DS, UK and Aus so far) that claims to accept 50v, but who knows when that will show up in the US for actual purchase. Off the top of my head there a few 50A with solar input...

See this thread on another forum; per Kisae you can shut down charging by inducing a fake E07 condition. This could be useful for manual intervention, low-temp protection, etc.

.. One possible takeaway: stop charging LiFePO4 when it's full enough. Continuing to jam in Ah will drive imbalance.

LiFePO4 direct to alternator Alternator charging LiFePO4 LiFePO4 Batteries, Alternator, Li-BIM-225 and DC-to-DC Charging Question Charging lifepo4 without charge controller Experiences charging LFP from alternator WITHOUT a DC-DC charger 12v LFPo to Alternator question etc This is a DIY...

An MPPT controller will do the voltage downconversion ("bucking"). My 12v house bank is fed by a 90.9v array.

The lead starter battery is still in the circuit. The radiator cooling fans on my van pull more current than my LiFePO4 pack and shut on/off frequently. I also don't charge my pack to BMS shutoff.

Relay-charging typically routes NEG return through the chassis, introducing large amounts of resistance. My last few observations of charge acceptance with bank voltage and SoC before cranking the engine. 180A alt @ 14.2v, 150Ah LiFePO4 bank: 0.245C, 13.07v, 60% SoC 0.13C, 13.15v, 72% 0.12C...

Voltage sag. The larger AN series have voltage-sensing terminals. If yours does you can run a sense wire to the bank and the controller will compensate for the sag. If yours does not have voltage sensing you can either find the resistance causing the sag or increase your charging setpoints...

People who want significant charging from the alternator usually DIY rather than use a "solar generator": chassis -> {relay, isolator, or DC-DC) -> house battery bank Especially here on the DIY Solar Forum. :-) I assume you haven't actually bought the "power station" yet. If that's the case...

Not in the EpEver controller. Some controllers do let you derate output. I suspect this is an artificially-low limit on the manufacturer's part; 60A going into 206Ah of LiFePO4 is only 0.29C. IMO that is still on the conservative side of charging. I'm the local scaredy-cat and I charge my...

200Ah of lead and ~125Ah of LiFePO4 have the same amount of usable capacity. In practice 100Ah of LFP will probably behave about the same as the lead bank. Anecdote: I replaced 220Ah of lead (2x 6v FLA) with 100Ah of LiFePO4 to good effect. Capacity is theortetically lower but overall...

Not trying to derail, but just saw this pic on reddit and thought of this discussion. The Class A in the pic is sporting 4,380W of panel. The owner mentions it here.

I ran mine with 750w. As our eggy friend explained, it is a calculated output limit, not a a limit on the panel wattage. * 40A x 12.0v charging voltage = 480w * 40A x 13.0v charging voltage = 520w * etc You can overpanel the controller but it will not put out more than 40A. Heads up: the...

4 means 40A @ 12 <--- 2 means 12v/24v 15 means 150v

Yes. The Renogy will react to the bank voltage it sees. It does not know or care that the other charger is present. Multiple chargers can feed the same bank at once. The locals around here will often refer to this as "shore power", as the term ground has other meanings in this context.

Given that we're on the DIY solar forum I think I know how most folks here would do it. Folks on a hypothetical Power Bank Forum would likely have other ideas. :) IMO if snow and lack of sun will be factors I would build the system around the alternator and augment with mounted solar...

The specs of the linked panels include: Maximum Power Voltage(Vmp): 20.4V Open Circuit Voltage(Voc): 24.3V .... which is perilously close to the linked controller's 25v input limit. I would look for panels with a lower Vmp/Voc or use a controller with higher input limits. Seattle isn't...

It would look like this if the BMS turned off charging and the charging sources were powering small loads.

I think so. I've done it from 24v -> 12v for a DIY converter. Something like that happened here on the forum. The next few comments after that post provide context.

Took me a while to figure out this probably means es macht nichts.

The ACR uses voltage setpoints to connect/disconnect the banks. The disconnect setpoint, IIRC, is 12.75V. Cool if you have a lead bank, because the resting voltage will typically drop below that after a short time. LiFePO4 resting voltages are higher and so the disconnection will not trip...

IIRC they are the OEM for many Chinese solar controller brands, whether simple rebrands ("badge engineering") or made-to-order stuff. Hopefully someone with a better understanding of the Mainland business relationships will chime in here. Firmware can differ between brands so it's worth...

I think it's a rebranded version of the SRNE, and does look promising. Main benefit over Kisae appears to be a seperate terminal for battery voltage sensing.

If my Redarc were meeting needs (or projected to meet needs with the added solar) I would not pay money to swap it out. If you happen to have a Renogy DCC30/50 in the garage and want play with it I'd enjoy reading about the A/B testing with the units. If you are looking to increase charging...

The research paper linked by @sunshine_eggo says: ...so maybe we can't be entirely cavalier about high SoC, at least in warmer ambients.