Rich Solar 50A MPPT/DC-DC Charge Controller

[Kemp Outside]

I’m considering the Rich Solar unit instead of Renogy. I’m new to all this but it looks like the specs are better. Am I missing anything or is this a good unit?

 

[12VoltInstalls]

I wouldn’t buy anything from renogy myself. Too many poor CS reports when I bought my original stuff. If they paid me for a ‘major position’ they would be in a totally different realm within a year; there stuff is not much different than others in their segment and ‘tier’ but they bomb in CS and two other important areas.

On the other hand, Rich Solar, Windy Nation, a couple of others- sell branded spec-purchased equipment that does perform. Though lower shelf, commodity equipment, they aren’t bottom shelf.
I’d buy that Rich stuff.

 

[davesupreme]

i'm askin' the same ??? i'm watchin' this ......

 

[Tomthumb62]

Specs:

“

Max. Voltage of Open Circuit

55Vdc

That’s 30v better than the Renogy one. Still awfully low, but I’d buy this over the Renogy model for Tue higher PV input volts alone.

 

[Kemp Outside]

Specs:

“

Max. Voltage of Open Circuit

55Vdc

That’s 30v better than the Renogy one. Still awfully low, but I’d buy this over the Renogy model for Tue higher PV input volts alone.

If I understand it right, that should mean I can run 4 of their 200 watt panels, two each in series and then each pair in parallel. Voc 24.3 for each panel.

 

[fratermus]

I think it's a rebranded version of the SRNE, and does look promising. Main benefit over Kisae appears to be a seperate terminal for battery voltage sensing.

 

[Kemp Outside]

I think it's a rebranded version of the SRNE, and does look promising. Main benefit over Kisae appears to be a seperate terminal for battery voltage sensing.

I’m not familiar with SRNE. Is it a unit I should consider?

 

[12VoltInstalls]

If I understand it right, that should mean I can run 4 of their 200 watt panels, two each in series and then each pair in parallel. Voc 24.3 for each panel.

Calculate VOC for your coldest on record. That could be tight depending on how the worded the spec. “Max voltage” versus “VOC” if VOC is specified at standard 77*F
55 max voltage won’t work out for the 2S2P if it gets cold in your region imho

 

[fratermus]

I’m not familiar with SRNE.

IIRC they are the OEM for many Chinese solar controller brands, whether simple rebrands ("badge engineering") or made-to-order stuff. Hopefully someone with a better understanding of the Mainland business relationships will chime in here.

Firmware can differ between brands so it's worth reading docs and watching reviews.

Is it a unit I should consider?

It could come down to cost, firmware, and availability.

 

[Tomthumb62]

If I understand it right, that should mean I can run 4 of their 200 watt panels, two each in series and then each pair in parallel. Voc 24.3 for each panel.

Yes, the model with a PV input of 55VDC, yes could do that, as long as it doesn't get very cold where you are. At 0F, you'll be at around 27.9V, which will fry the MPPT. At 20F, you'll be at 27V, which two in series gives you 54V...that is awfully close to the max input of 55V. This is a hard stop...you cannot go past 55V or you will fry your MPPT. You can "overpanel" (produce more amps than the MPPT is rated for) but you cannot exceed the max PV input of 55V. If I were you, I would keep it well below that. Design the system so that you never go past 50-52V...and that's still quite close. You need to consider what is the coldest temp ever recorded in the last 75 years. Or if you NEVER intend to use the system during the cold months (PV is disconnected from the MPPT), then you can ignore this advice.

But not with the first model you spoke of (do you own this one already, I can't recall?) only has a PV input of 25V. With panels of Voc of 24.3, you will certainly fry your MPPT the first day you hit 60F. This 25V model is nearly pointless for anything but a very basic 12v system. If all you wanted to do was run 1p or 2 to 6p, then you're fine. But you'd be locked into a parallel-only configuration (I run 6p on my camp trailer). Also consider if you'd be using this system is really cold temps. I just ran the solar temperature calculator and at -20F, my 100W panels will produce 25.4V, which would fry your MPPT in that case.

Here is the calculator you'll want to use (just use the info on the label on the back of the panel(s) in question to find max volts your panels could produce.

And if you want to play with series vs parallel (or combos) configurations, this calculator makes it super easy.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

With panels of Voc of 24.3, you will certainly fry your MPPT the first day you hit 60F. This 25V model is nearly pointless for anything but a very basic 12v system

Yes, and when I bought my first solar I got this kit and it worked flawlessly for a couple years. It still would but I grew by a whole lot of watts after that and went mppt. For $275 I recommend that kit. And no VOC issues.

Or buy a pair of me-too panels for $160 and a powerMR mppt for $80 plus some cables and be at the same place except you will need to buy cables and such.

 

[Kemp Outside]

But not with the first model you spoke of (do you own this one already, I can't recall?)

I don’t have it. I really want a solar controller with DC to DC but could end up with separate units for each job. If I do separate them, I need a DC to DC charger that auto senses voltage and doesn’t need an ignition wire. I don’t want to run an ignition wire to my trailer from my tow vehicle.

 

[Tomthumb62]

I don’t have it. I really want a solar controller with DC to DC but could end up with separate units for each job. If I do separate them, I need a DC to DC charger that auto senses voltage and doesn’t need an ignition wire. I don’t want to run an ignition wire to my trailer from my tow vehicle.

If I were to install a DC-DC charger, I’d try to place it halfway between the tow vehicle and the battery to be charged. You’re going to need to run some hefty cables from the TV starter battery to the dcdc anyways, what’s so bad about running a thin ignition wire anyways, alongside the big cables? I don’t know a lot about these dcdc chargers but I’d be surprised if the Victron models don’t have voltage sensing capabilities. They’re more expensive though. Having had some Renogy products that have since been replaced by Victron ones, I’ll probably never go back. Should I ever sell the Victron items, should be easier to get a good resale value from them.

Check out RV with Tito on YouTube. He’s got some great videos. He originally installed a Renogy dcdc charger that he later replaced with a Victron. In his Victron video, he explains why he upgraded. Might be worth a watch.

 

[Kemp Outside]

You’re going to need to run some hefty cables from the TV starter battery to the dcdc anyways, what’s so bad about running a thin ignition wire anyways, alongside the big cables?

I’m trying to avoid more connections since I also tow a boat and regularly expose the back of my tow vehicle to saltwater. I always use dielectric grease and clean my connections but I’d rather not have to maintain a third hookup.