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They are packaged in individual foam cutouts

Placing my first order through Alibaba and wanted to make sure i have everything in order. Hows this look to those familiar with the process?

i got the console running, but it doesnt see the device and i have no USB icon lit up on the device. Ive filed for a return. Somethings wonky with this unit.

When you plugged the usb cord into your laptop, did windows detect it?

Do you have a battery plugged into the input and the output? Or just the input?

You should be able to update the software. That should'nt require an output, just an Input to turn it on. I would think Windows would need to detect it as a device before the software could see it. Do you have the little USB icon lit up on the charger (#20 below) I tried that as well, no...

It tried that as well with no luck. Ive monitored device manager for any new devices as I plugged it in as well.

Nope, no signs of life when i plug it in. No detection from windows and no USB icon on the unit itself.

Running windows 10. Plugging the USB in while the unit is powered on doesnt do anything unfortunetly.

Any1 have the iCharger X6 and have hooked it to their computer via USB? I have the input power in and the usb cable plugged in, but noting pops up on my computer and the usb icon on the iCharger doesnt light up. When I first boot up the iCharger i get the below USB error when i have the usb...

Noted thank you. I typically solder my lugs as well.

I didnt go by the totals given on the item. I messaged them directly to negotiate a price.

Looking to place an order with this company as well. Any update on how the batteries tested @Markus

Ive been on the hunt for an electrician/solar company to AC couple a hybrid inverter to my grid tied solar edge. Ive called 4 different solar companies with no reply. Reached out on Facebook...nothing.. Anyone here know of an electrician/solar provider in MA that can do the job?

Man thats impressive stuff. If i got 4 of those BYD packs and wired both sets in parralell and then series them together, i would be looking at a 48v ~250AH system, correct?

I saw those same BYD packs, but the capacity had me worried as well. Which chevy bolt packs did you get and what type of cell are they (lipo, lifep04, li ion)

Thanks for the info GX. I was talking with a buddy of mine who has me seriously considering switching over to Lifepo4 batteries instead. About the same price, easier to setup, and safer. Ill also end up with around 14kwh vs the 5kwh of this pack.

They did have a crimping tool, but i may solder it for easy removal if needed

Just went to the store and was looking at 6awg solid copper wire. Its much thinner than i thought! It was only about 3.1mm. Would that be good for my application? I couldnt find any charts on solid copper temps at certain amps.

If i were pulling 100amps continuous, that would be only 50 per side of the bar in my configuration, effectively halving the temperature, correct? It would not need to be bent much, just a slight tweak to create a 1in gap or so between the packs. Remeber these copper bars will be facing...

Ill go with something a little heavier then. Would something like this work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-25-ft-8-Gauge-Solid-SD-Bare-Copper-Grounding-Wire-10632883/301096486 Is this chart accurate?

The wire i made was made of 3 wires twisted together. They are about 1.7mm each.

Awesome! Its all starting to make sense! If i decided to go with the 2 cell wide by 17 cells tall and ran my 8 awg wire i made down the middle with ring terminals on each end and wired them in series the same way as above. The 8awg twisted wire i made should work fine, correct?

Ok so something like this? This would essentially quarter the amp draw on each wire, so something like 12awg wire would work?

Ill admit, having the rings come straight off the top and bottom served an ulterior future motive for growth. With this design, i could add another 3x12 pack below the exiting one to parallel two packs together. Again, this is for future growth. I just want a design that will accommodate that...

And to connect in series, i would connect the top and bottom positive ring terminals to the Top and bottom of the negative side of the next pack, correct?

Is this what you were referring to? The grey spots are empty. For the soldering, ive heard of guys zip tying the copper bar to these nickel plates with great success as well. No solder needed.

I plan to connect them in series by putting a ring terminal on each end and connecting it to the next pack by bolting them together. The other option is to simply pull a single battery from the 34p to make it 33p and a can do 3 rows of 11 cells. This would allow me to for a complete loop using...

Those would be 2s34p packs instead of just 1 34p pack. The idea is that if one pack acts up, needs maintenance, etc.. i just unplug that row and diagnose the pack/34 batteries. The one draw back of these fused cell sheets is if you have to replace a cell, you cant jut pop it out without pulling...

Should be easy enough to connect the POS bottom and top of one module to the neg bottom and top of the next module in series.

Are you suggesting the first pic and or the second?

Ok, it sounds like 6awg wire will work for running the length of the pack with a ring terminal on the end to connect to the next pack in series, correct? I also picked up some watt meters for the appliances i plan run off the batteries. Here is my Fridge. Its normally around the 169w/1428mA...

By both sides i mean the top Positive side and the bottom Negative side. Both will have 2wide x 17long Nickel fuse, which will put them all in parallel. The Battery hookup site states that if you run a copper wire the full length of One side you distribute the Amps evenly across all 17 rows...

They are nickel plated steel. Here is a link with more info that you may find interesting. https://batteryhookup.com/products/nickel-fuse-5p-wide-continuous-roll-by-the-foot-18650-cell-level-fusing?variant=29596921823311. This was interesting: " For example, if you had a 20 cell parallel pack 2...

Yes, each sell will have its own fuse using the battery hookup fused nickel sheets. I believe they pop at anything over 10amps directly to the cell. Thr copper wires job (if im understanding things) is to help even the draw across the whole strip, handle the amps, and provide a way to connect...