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These batteries are now on sale for $279.99 plus free shipping…

System continues to work great. I have added 3 additional ‘portable’ 100 watt panels with a dedicated Victron 100/20 controller to help me when the RV is shaded. I can place the panels in a non-shaded area. Has been helpful.

Correct...it runs down the part of the awning arm/support that does not move.

Thanks. I don't have pictures, but there are existing wires already in that awning arm (under the black plastic strip that just pops out) and I just ran the wires beside the existing ones...and made a new hole into the camper just under the hole they used for the existing wires. Fairly...

A number of folks here (including me) have used these M6x25mm SS set screws with success. https://www.ebay.com/itm/M6-Stainless-Steel-Set-Screws-with-Cup-Point-Socket-Allen-key-Drive-DIN-916/122548757731?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

With the Renogy Converter, there is not a drop in power as it ramps up to handle increased load, so the microwave behaves as thought it always had full power, and no beeps or blinking lights happen.

I am using the Renogy 2000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Battery Converter, which so far seems to do a good job of ramping up when needed, and ramping down when not using much power. I leave it on most of the time, and have seen no issues...

Once you have been on the roof of any RV and seen the amount of Lap sealant that is on there, you will realize that more holes and more Lap sealant won't make things any worse. :cool:

Thanks for the the feedback. The roof on my RV is a rubber membrane, so not conducive to no-drill options. I used traditional Z mounts with Eternabond under them, then used #14 X 1" Stainless Truss Head Phillips Wood Screws, and finally covered it heavily with Lap sealant. I did get the mounts...

Thanks for the feedback. The only reason I don't think it is a big concern, is that is exactly the setup I would have if I had gone with a commercial solution like Battleborn...each of their batteries has a BMS in them, and would be hooked up in parallel for a 12 volt system.

Lots of questions. :) Microwave will run in all modes...it is our biggest power consumer, but does not get used a lot. The Inverter I am using does not have a 'sleep/eco' mode but, it does ramp up it's power use as demand requires it to. It is silent when load is low...like the outdoor...

You are correct, there are four cable ties per battery, but in my defense...they are heavy...and would have to clear the 2" base before they could go any where...I am comfortable that unless I tip over, those batteries are going to be in the same place when I arrive. :)

I use the term Inverter/charger to mean the device that charges my 12v battery and inverts 110ac to 12V DC. :)

I recommend you take a look at this place for an inverter/charger that is configured for Lithium batteries. http://www.bestconverter.com/Lithium-Battery-Converter-Chargers_c_235.html

No expansion or heat is noticed when charging...

Here is what I did for my RV setup. My main concern was keeping the cells in place while moving.

I like using Welding cable, and have found eBay the best place to get it.

Jim, I purposely 'over paneled' my system. I frequently camp in shady areas, and wanted my best chance of getting as much power as I could out of the panels. With the Victron controller I use, it is ok to have more incoming PV power then it can handle...it just does not use it. So I top out...

I used these...and am very happy with them - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002QTJ0E/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

I like the Smart BMS a lot...has worked better then expected. Each BMS shows up separately in the app...you then pick which one you want to see. I can see SOC and cell data in one view for one battery at a time.

That is where the BMS comes in handy...I have mine set to stop charging when the batteries get to 13.4 volts. :)

Yes, it floats at 14.4 There is a jumper you need to change for Lithium..details are on the Bestconverter website.

Thanks for your detailed reply. I started out wanting to build one 100ah 'Battleborn' style battery...but, I could not find a BMS with low temp protection that supported 200+ amps. So, at some point I decided I could get my 200+ amps by using two 120amp BMS's with 2 batteries in parallel. As I...

Here are a couple close up pictures of my batteries. I used the top of a storage container to keep the BMS off of the top of cells. I need to do a little cleanup of my cable ties. :)

Thanks for the feedback. I don’t show it in the picture, but I have a 250 amp MRBF fuse at the positive end of my battery...just for the reason you stated. Thanks again for the feedback.

I did 8 cells in a two 12v config with two 120 amp smart BMSs...have been very pleased with them in my RV.

I went with the approach to add more panels then required instead of using an adjustable mount. I mounted mine directly to the roof using the usual z mounts and large, #14 truss head screws. I used Eternabond tape tape under the mounts, and tons of Dicor self leveling lap sealant over the...

Thanks for your clarification. The 2K inverter is by far the highest load on the battery...everything else is small in comparison (LED lights, 12 volt blower/fan motors, etc)

Thanks for all the feedback so far. A key point, that I have not focused on...is possible impacts from the vibrations that come from moving this trailer over time. I will take a closer look at all of my connection points and see what I can do to relieve any stress from the wires...specially...

Back on the Inverter breaker comment. I may have misunderstood. I think you are saying/suggesting that I need a breaker between the battery and the Inverter...where I have a switch instead? And if so, that would need to be a fairly large one...200 amps or so? Or is the 250 amp catastrophic...

It is a 250 amp MRBF fuse that looks like this one. Thanks for the tips on fixing the wire pass through chafing.

Thanks for the feedback. You can't see it in the pictures, but there is a 250 amp fuse on the main positive connection to the battery. On the wire chafing, my plan is to put sealant of some kind on the pass through hole to keep them from moving...was holding off till I was sure I did not need...

Thanks for the feedback. The inverter connects to the power panel inside the RV, which then has breakers, a main one, plus one for each circuit. Do you think I need another one between the Inverter and the RV breaker panel?

My largest load is probably the hair dryer...which is clearly optional. It showed as using under 100 amps, but the measurement is off because the solar panels were active at the same time...offsetting the power consumption. The 2 BMS’s wired in parallel support up to a 250 amp load...so I have...

Details on my RV solar configuration 26’ Travel trailer (Rockwood Mini Lite 2509s) Six 100 Watt roof mounted Polycrystalline Solar panels. (HQST) Panels are wired in parallel pairs (2P3S) Victron SmartSolar 150/35 charger with BlueTooth battery sensor 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter...