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RV - 600 Watt solar with 2 DIY 280ah LiFeP04 batteries

Great set up.
How are you liking the Smart BMS with Bluetooth?
My question is how the App works with two batteries and BMS units? Can you view SOC and Cell data all at the same time or do you have to swap back and forth between battery 1 and 2
 
SV Third Day said:
Great set up.
How are you liking the Smart BMS with Bluetooth?
My question is how the App works with two batteries and BMS units? Can you view SOC and Cell data all at the same time or do you have to swap back and forth between battery 1 and 2
Click to expand...
I like the Smart BMS a lot...has worked better then expected.

Each BMS shows up separately in the app...you then pick which one you want to see.

I can see SOC and cell data in one view for one battery at a time.
 
HomeTownHockeyFan said:
Details on my RV solar configuration

26’ Travel trailer (Rockwood Mini Lite 2509s)

Six 100 Watt roof mounted Polycrystalline Solar panels. (HQST)
Panels are wired in parallel pairs (2P3S)

View attachment 12073

Victron SmartSolar 150/35 charger with BlueTooth battery sensor

2000 watt pure sine wave inverter (Renogy)

View attachment 12075

Inverter is ‘hard wired’ to an Automatic Transfer Switch (Go Power)

Used switches or breakers to isolate the various components.

Replaced the standard RV Converter with one that supports Lithium (Wildkat)

Built two 280ah batteries using EVE cells. (Moved the batteries from the tongue of the trailer to the pass through storage to shift some weight off the tongue)

Using two of the 120ah SmartBMS's wired in parallel

View attachment 12074

Used 8 gauge wire for solar panels

Used 1/0 wire for all battery, charger, and inverter wiring (Even replaced the wires running from the RV power converter)

Was a lot of work…but, very pleased with the results so far.
Click to expand...

Great job! May I ask what straps you used to hold the four cells together?
 
I am learning and also looking at 600watts for panels. I see you have a 35a cc. How do you manage that?
I was looking at the Renogy 600 watt kit and it came with a 40a cc that was only good for 520w.

I know the panels won't see a true 100w output, but wondering on yours.....thanks. looks like a clean install for sure.

Jim
 
My system will be on a Rockwood 2506, but with a 4 cell 280ah battery. As much solar as I can comfortably fit. Likely 4 200 watt panels and a victron controller of some sort.
 
Jims94vmx said:
I am learning and also looking at 600watts for panels. I see you have a 35a cc. How do you manage that?
I was looking at the Renogy 600 watt kit and it came with a 40a cc that was only good for 520w.

I know the panels won't see a true 100w output, but wondering on yours.....thanks. looks like a clean install for sure.

Jim
Click to expand...
Jim,
I purposely 'over paneled' my system. I frequently camp in shady areas, and wanted my best chance of getting as much power as I could out of the panels.

With the Victron controller I use, it is ok to have more incoming PV power then it can handle...it just does not use it. So I top out at 35 amps even if my panels are actually producing more then that.
 
HomeTownHockeyFan said:
Jim,
I purposely 'over paneled' my system. I frequently camp in shady areas, and wanted my best chance of getting as much power as I could out of the panels.

With the Victron controller I use, it is ok to have more incoming PV power then it can handle...it just does not use it. So I top out at 35 amps even if my panels are actually producing more then that.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Been seeing "over paneling " lately....appreciate the reply.
 
Jims94vmx said:
Thanks. Been seeing "over paneling " lately....appreciate the reply.
Click to expand...

A note of caution, how much you can overpanel/oversize your PV array, depends on your specific controller. The most important considerations are keeping your array Voc below and Isc below the controllers max input voltage and current. With Victron those are the only limits that matter, with some other controllers like Epever, and Renogy, you have to pay attention to total power (Watts) as well.

Victron has a good explanation of how it works with their controllers here
 
Will that inverter run the microwave in all modes? Also, do you use the eco mode (or sleep mode) and run the outside refrigerator with it? So that you can keep it in sleep mode, but it "wakes up" when the outdoor kitchen refrigerator kicks on? If so, how many amps does that outdoor fridge eat up when it is running?
I am basically going to copy the snot out of your system for my 2506. Does the 600 watt pane l setup keep up with that outdoor fridge running? ( I know, lot of variables there, but in general?)
 
Nice setup. Only concern when using parallel BMSs is, if there is large load and the other decides to cut off power fraction earlier, other might burn. They would need to be designed so they can be used in parallel. Other as a master unit, other as a slave.
 
Electric Personality said:
Will that inverter run the microwave in all modes? Also, do you use the eco mode (or sleep mode) and run the outside refrigerator with it? So that you can keep it in sleep mode, but it "wakes up" when the outdoor kitchen refrigerator kicks on? If so, how many amps does that outdoor fridge eat up when it is running?
I am basically going to copy the snot out of your system for my 2506. Does the 600 watt pane l setup keep up with that outdoor fridge running? ( I know, lot of variables there, but in general?)
Click to expand...
Lots of questions. :)

Microwave will run in all modes...it is our biggest power consumer, but does not get used a lot.

The Inverter I am using does not have a 'sleep/eco' mode but, it does ramp up it's power use as demand requires it to. It is silent when load is low...like the outdoor fridge.

I don't have the power consumption numbers on the outside fridge, but it is small enough that I have no issues running it with the batteries and solar. Microwave, coffee pot, and hair dryer are the only devices I worry about...and/or use as required. :)

I went a little overboard on the solar and the batteries to give me breathing room for a couple of rainy days in a row while boondocking.

I hope this helps...please let me know if you have any questions.
 
Peten said:
Nice setup. Only concern when using parallel BMSs is, if there is large load and the other decides to cut off power fraction earlier, other might burn. They would need to be designed so they can be used in parallel. Other as a master unit, other as a slave.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback.

The only reason I don't think it is a big concern, is that is exactly the setup I would have if I had gone with a commercial solution like Battleborn...each of their batteries has a BMS in them, and would be hooked up in parallel for a 12 volt system.
 
HomeTownHockeyFan said:
Details on my RV solar configuration

26’ Travel trailer (Rockwood Mini Lite 2509s)

Six 100 Watt roof mounted Polycrystalline Solar panels. (HQST)
Panels are wired in parallel pairs (2P3S)

View attachment 12073

Victron SmartSolar 150/35 charger with BlueTooth battery sensor

2000 watt pure sine wave inverter (Renogy)

View attachment 12075

Inverter is ‘hard wired’ to an Automatic Transfer Switch (Go Power)

Used switches or breakers to isolate the various components.

Replaced the standard RV Converter with one that supports Lithium (Wildkat)

Built two 280ah batteries using EVE cells. (Moved the batteries from the tongue of the trailer to the pass through storage to shift some weight off the tongue)

Using two of the 120ah SmartBMS's wired in parallel

View attachment 12074

Used 8 gauge wire for solar panels

Used 1/0 wire for all battery, charger, and inverter wiring (Even replaced the wires running from the RV power converter)

Was a lot of work…but, very pleased with the results so far.
Click to expand...
Nice install. You should love all the energy storage these batteries have. I recently put together a 24V bank for home use using 8-280 ah cells in series and I really like the batteries. Question; how did you mount your solar panels to the roof of your RV? I'm trying to muster the courage to do that and I'm looking for no-drill options if possible except for the hole for the wires going down. Did you use screws and/or VHB/Eternabond? Have you had any issues with the roof mount? I'm looking for ideas and feedback. Thanks.
 
bdbugbee said:
Nice install. You should love all the energy storage these batteries have. I recently put together a 24V bank for home use using 8-280 ah cells in series and I really like the batteries. Question; how did you mount your solar panels to the roof of your RV? I'm trying to muster the courage to do that and I'm looking for no-drill options if possible except for the hole for the wires going down. Did you use screws and/or VHB/Eternabond? Have you had any issues with the roof mount? I'm looking for ideas and feedback. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the the feedback. The roof on my RV is a rubber membrane, so not conducive to no-drill options.

I used traditional Z mounts with Eternabond under them, then used #14 X 1" Stainless Truss Head Phillips Wood Screws, and finally covered it heavily with Lap sealant. I did get the mounts close enough to the edge of the roof so that the screws on the sides went into the roof framing.

I have driven about 600 miles since the mount and they are holding up well.

I ran my wires down the awning mount so that I did not have to put a hole in the roof for the wires.

I hope this makes sense...please let me know if you have other questions.
 
HomeTownHockeyFan said:
Thanks for the the feedback. The roof on my RV is a rubber membrane, so not conducive to no-drill options.

I used traditional Z mounts with Eternabond under them, then used #14 X 1" Stainless Truss Head Phillips Wood Screws, and finally covered it heavily with Lap sealant. I did get the mounts close enough to the edge of the roof so that the screws on the sides went into the roof framing.

I have driven about 600 miles since the mount and they are holding up well.

I ran my wires down the awning mount so that I did not have to put a hole in the roof for the wires.

I hope this makes sense...please let me know if you have other questions.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply. I too have a Rockwood (2606WS) and I'm nervous about drilling holes in the roof. I'll get over it. lol
 
bdbugbee said:
Thanks for your reply. I too have a Rockwood (2606WS) and I'm nervous about drilling holes in the roof. I'll get over it. lol
Click to expand...

Once you have been on the roof of any RV and seen the amount of Lap sealant that is on there, you will realize that more holes and more Lap sealant won't make things any worse. :cool:
 
dashdrum said:
Side comment about sleep mode: When I put my AIMS inverter in Power Saver mode, the RV microwave will beep every few seconds when the inverter checks for demand. Makes that mode pretty useless.
Click to expand...
Good to know, didn’t even think of that. With your current setup, is it an issue to just keep the inverter hot, or do you only turn it on as needed?
 
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