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I cannot speak to most of this, but depending on how many lights you have, and total power draw and length of time you would like them to stay on, you probably need more or larger solar panels, and yes, a centralized LiFePO4 also sized for capacity. Possibly 12awg or 10awg wire depending on...

Yes, that is what I mean. I have Ampere Time and Li Time batteries---they are encased. I also have a build for my garage using those same Eve cells, and no, I would not place the heat pad and metal sheet in direct contact with them. I would also suggest incorporating a version of what @JRH is...

Agreed. The capacity testing is really just to make sure the batteries are good, and will all play nice with each other once wired together into a larger battery bank. If any of them were falling well short or having a problem charging, I would return it/replace it. The testing is to prevent me...

All true, but also depends on your build/scenario. The pad and sheet aluminum are pretty snug under my battery bank/box, and strapped down. More so, the batteries are in their own commercial cases (not DIY cells), and the pad is wired to the DC panel with a minimal fuse. So if it shorts to the...

I have one of these under my battery bank, and did as will shows in the video. Test your Facon heat pad before you install it, and do so in real or closely simulated conditions. I did not, and have them installed on my RV tanks, and one under my battery bank as described in Will's video. But...

Your method basically matches my theory of "practical" capacity vs. absolute capacity, and why I am only concerned with a rough capacity test to know the battery is in good shape and not faulty or lower grade cells. The inverter is going to cutout from low voltage before the battery reaches its...

Thank you. That makes sense and would be the ideal method for critical measurement. I tried the Victron shunt (because I already have it), on a 230Ah Li Time, with a 2000w inverter and a space heater, with a total draw of around 145A. When the voltage dropped below the inverter threshold, I let...

When it comes to battery capacity testing, I see Will using or listing several odd little gizmos for doing so. I see them on Ebay and Amazon. Why can't I simply use my Victron 500A Smart Shunt with the app to run capacity testing on a battery? Fully charge and zero current calibrate to 100%...

I have the Li Time 100Ah Mini, and it has been sitting waiting for a project for a number of weeks now after fully charging, and is resting at 13.37v. The other Ampere Time (previous name of company) 100Ah batteries are currently part of a 500Ah battery bank in our RV trailer. I cannot tell you...

Agreed. I think it is a post-charge event. The History tab in the Victron app will show the charge progress, and if it was "Completed" or stopped by other means. And yes, this followed through to completion for full cycle. I have not. That might be a next step to investigate. First will try a...

These batteries seem to do better with their respective BMS, if the charger max voltage is set below 14.6v. I have been experimenting with the Victron Ip22 30A charger, and the batteries seem happiest if the max charge voltage is 14.4v (manual says 14.4v +/- .2v). When left to do it's thing, it...

I bought three new Li Time 230Ah Plus with LTCP and am having exactly the same experience as you describe. All of them arrive with a voltage around 13.11v. I charge with a Victron IP22 30A charger, and when it completes the cycle, the battery reads 12.89v or 12.96v ----this has been the case...

Update. Also checked the battery with a second multimeter, and same voltage. Next, I connected the battery to a 2000W inverter and ran a space heater pulling 142amp from the battery. It functioned. Let it run for about 20 minutes. Disconnected everything, and again checked the battery voltage...

Well, yeah, those are the possible gremlins. The meter is a Klein, and seems to work perfectly on anything else. I have also connected two other LiFePo4 specific chargers, a Victron and an EG4. Have also played with the settings on the two Victron smart chargers to adjust voltage parameters, but...

Just purchased this battery (and have a second one on the way). The battery arrived yesterday, with a resting voltage of 13.11v. I connected a Victron 25A smart charger with the LiFePo4 charge parameters. After fully charging, and allowing time for it to recover, the resting voltage now reads...

Interesting, yes I guess I didn't think about it that way. So why would what deserthi wants to do damage the BMS if he is within the SCC parameters? He would be under max voltage.

If you have a series of solar panels supplying 100V it will also do so at a specified maximum amperage, say 12A. This is a regulated and known flow of power and within the limits of the Delta Pro for DC power input through the solar charge port. A 48V or 96V battery can output that voltage at...

How do you intend to connect the 48V batteries to the Delta Pro for charging? The solar charge port can accept up to 150v max with a charge rate of 15A. If you connect 48 V batteries in a series to achieve 96v output, you also need a method of regulating the amps---you don't want to dump 96V at...

Did the panels arrive? Are they in operation now? Recommend?

Recommendation on where to find this type and capacity? Maybe something with a little more capacity? Like 35-40Ah?

What LFP cells are in the Ecoflow Delta 2, and can I source them for DIY projects? The Delta 2 hits the sweet spot for size/weight/power output (1800W). Smallish and portable. But I would like more capacity than the 1024Wh (though not bad). You cannot duplicate this unit DIY using Eve or the...

Yes, you have two related problems with this setup. Your BMS is underrated, as mentioned, AND you do not have enough battery capacity. Victron recommends a minimum of 400Ah of battery for use with the 12/3000 Multiplus (I have a Multiplus connected to 500Ah of LiFePo4 batteries). In my setup, I...

You need to know the max input voltage of your MPPT controller. This will determine how you need to configure the panel array(s). If the input voltage (Voc) is too high, it will fry the system. What brand and model is the 4k inverter? In either situation, you should be fine with 10awg PV solar...

Should use a breaker or more realistically a fuse in-line with the battery positive terminal. You add a fuse/breaker to protect the wire from over-current, so they don't melt down and start a fire. Maybe just a 3amp, or 5amp at most. The fuse in the Victron will only possibly protect the...

Perfect, thank you for the replies. I have similar thoughts that many of the solar panels from different name brands are actually the same panels re-branded or have minor differences, with similar quality and features to most. So would rather pay half. Yes, size, fit, and specifications all...

Will Prowse recommends the Rich solar 400W panels, and I have a few of their 200w panels and have no complaints. But current promotional sale pricing has Rich Solar 400W panels, Qty of 10 for $4,800, and free shipping = $1.20/watt. SunGoldPower is listing a 415W panel, qty of 10 for $2,575 =...

Not sure exactly the model/type of RV or camper you have, or the design of components, but the diagrams from Explorist.life are very helpful. Look at the image and link below. Will Prowse is an excellent resource, and Explorist also does a great job with clear plans and great bite-sized videos...

I have followed this thread since my earlier comment, and IMHO it is just going down hill. You are trying desperately to make this all work with a 1200w inverter, but it simply is not going to do the job you need it to. The SOK battery BMS with a 100A max discharge is a limiting factor. You will...

True. I guess I was generalizing too much. Wanted to make sure he had a large enough battery and BMS to support his inverter. Wasn't sure if he was trying to connect a 300w inverter to a 6Ah, 12Ah or similar smallish battery with an equally small BMS. But a 50Ah likely supports a discharge rate...

So the Ah is an indication of what the BMS can output. A 50Ah battery can likely discharge at 50A. A window A/C unit with a rating of 5,000BTU can run on a 600w inverter. I tried it based on a Will Prowse video. But your needs will be much less with a 300watt inverter, especially if you think...

It looks like your multimeter readings are close to correct for the 600w load, but you are comparing DC to AC, and there is loss in the conversion from DC to AC depending on the efficiency of your inverter.

Okay. Almost. For calculation it is 51.2v (12.8 x 4), but yes, 1120Ah. 57.3kWh.

Yes, not certain on the actual battery size. Do you have 16- 280Ah cells configured as one 48v (nominal) battery? This would be 51.2v x 280Ah = 14,336Wh. Close to what camelCase suggested, and would agree with his conclusion. Otherwise, 57.3kWh and 1120Ah... what shavemcspud said.

Oh that is an easier answer. You will be fine with SAE for that. I have a 600w Giandel pure sine wave inverter I plug into my small DIY 50Ah LiFePo4 solar generator using an SAE connection. I never work it to the full 600w (technically that could be 50amps), but it easily powers laptops, fans...

Somehow I got the impression or possibly wrongly assumed you wanted to use SAE connectors to connect solar panels to a solar charge controller, but in re-reading the thread, you want to connect a battery to an inverter with an SAE connector, is that correct? But at the same time it doesn't make...