Which pure sine wave inverter...

[jmden]

Is the microwave rated 900 cooking Watts or the 900W of input power?
Look at the tag on the door of the microwave to see what the power input it, if it is 900 cooking Watts then the power input can be higher than 1500W.

Live and learn. It says 1350 watts power input. I guess that's out for a 1200 watt inverter...

Well, what about wiring the inverter to the outlets (1000 watt hair dryer?) AND the fridge (440 watts)? Can I do that with either the 1000/2000 watt Cooper Bussmann or the linked 1200 watt inverter?

 

[Bud Martin]

I would not use 1000W load on 1000W inverter, even if the unit is rated for continuous 1000W, I always derate my continuous load to be about 80 ~ 85% of the inverter rating for less chance of damaging the unit, 5 minutes of 1000W full load may be OK.
You can hard wire the AC output terminal of the Eaton to the extension outlet, it will still be be protected by the GFCI of the Eaton.
But it sounds like you will need higher Wattage inverter for your loads.

 

[time2roll]

1000w should start and run most fridges. In general I would have 20% headroom for any known items such as the hair dryer. That says 1200w minimum to me.

The 1350w MW may need 20% to 30% additional apparent power on top of the rating. I would be 1800-2000 minimum for that MW.

 

[jmden]

Repost. Sorry.

 

[AHTrimble]

I think you might take a look at Victron Phoenix inverters. I am pretty confident you would not be disappointed.

 

[jmden]

I would not use 1000W load on 1000W inverter, even if the unit is rated for continuous 1000W, I always derate my continuous load to be about 80 ~ 85% of the inverter rating for less chance of damaging the unit, 5 minutes of 1000W full load may be OK.
You can hard wire the AC output terminal of the Eaton to the extension outlet, it will still be be protected by the GFCI of the Eaton.
But it sounds like you will need higher Wattage inverter for your loads.

So it sounds like the 1200 watt AIMS linked above is my best bet.

 

[Bud Martin]

So it sounds like the 1200 watt AIMS linked above is my best bet.

I do not think it will reliably running your 900W MV.

 

[jmden]

I do not think it will reliably running your 900W MV.

No. It won't. That idea is out. But still hoping to connect it to the outlets circuit and fridge circuit. Just hoping to get some know-how help here to make sure I can do that and what is needed.

 

[constantspeed]

I have followed this thread since my earlier comment, and IMHO it is just going down hill. You are trying desperately to make this all work with a 1200w inverter, but it simply is not going to do the job you need it to. The SOK battery BMS with a 100A max discharge is a limiting factor. You will not get 1200w from an inverter, since they do not convert DC to AC without loss. It is not 100% efficient, which is what you are asking from it. Most people on this thread are echoing agreement, stated in different ways.

There is loss of power in the conversion, meaning for the inverter to actually output 1200w, you will need to pull close to 120A from the battery. The inverter at best is probably 85% efficient. You can dance around this all you want, but you cannot avoid the math. The only realistic solution here is to buy a second matching battery, connecting the two in parallel, which will give you max 200A continuous discharge. Then you can use a larger (1500-2000w) inverter to meet your needs. I know it means $$$. Buy once, cry once. But the direction you seem to be going will be a waste of money at best, and if done poorly could cause far bigger and costlier problems. Trying to help and nudge you toward a successful outcome.

 

[jmden]

I have followed this thread since my earlier comment, and IMHO it is just going down hill. You are trying desperately to make this all work with a 1200w inverter, but it simply is not going to do the job you need it to. The SOK battery BMS with a 100A max discharge is a limiting factor. You will not get 1200w from an inverter, since they do not convert DC to AC without loss. It is not 100% efficient, which is what you are asking from it. Most people on this thread are echoing agreement, stated in different ways.

There is loss of power in the conversion, meaning for the inverter to actually output 1200w, you will need to pull close to 120A from the battery. The inverter at best is probably 85% efficient. You can dance around this all you want, but you cannot avoid the math. The only realistic solution here is to buy a second matching battery, connecting the two in parallel, which will give you max 200A continuous discharge. Then you can use a larger (1500-2000w) inverter to meet your needs. I know it means $$$. Buy once, cry once. But the direction you seem to be going will be a waste of money at best, and if done poorly could cause far bigger and costlier problems. Trying to help and nudge you toward a successful outcome.

Understood. I'm realizing that more clearly. However, I would still like to wire an inverter to my outlets and the fridge circuit. Do I just run 14 guage from the inverter to those circuits with a transfer switch in between?

 

[pollenface]

I do not think it will reliably running your 900W MV.

I agree. In my case a 2000w inverter would not start an 800w microwave, but my 3000w would happily.

 

[time2roll]

Understood. I'm realizing that more clearly. However, I would still like to wire an inverter to my outlets and the fridge circuit. Do I just run 14 guage from the inverter to those circuits with a transfer switch in between?

Yes. Assuming this is an RV the inverter can be connected to the entire panel with a 30amp or 50amp transfer switch depending on the panel rating. Or the inverter can be connected to individual branch circuits with smaller automatic transfer switches. One per branch circuit. Usually one or two would be plenty.

 

[constantspeed]

Understood. I'm realizing that more clearly. However, I would still like to wire an inverter to my outlets and the fridge circuit. Do I just run 14 guage from the inverter to those circuits with a transfer switch in between?

Not sure exactly the model/type of RV or camper you have, or the design of components, but the diagrams from Explorist.life are very helpful. Look at the image and link below. Will Prowse is an excellent resource, and Explorist also does a great job with clear plans and great bite-sized videos covering all the component basics. The plan linked here includes stuff you can ignore---solar, DC-DC charging---but take a look if this is in the ballpark of what you are trying to accomplish. Explorist also has more options you can explore.

BudgetCamper Wiring Diagram - 32000w Inverter & Up to 520W Solar

2000w Inverter, 200w-520w Solar, Battery to Battery Charger, Shore Power, 200+Ah Battery Bank Budget Friendly camper wiring diagram

www.explorist.life