diy solar

diy solar

12kW system review quicky

Once the oven is up to temperature, it will cycle on and off to regulate. Same with the top plates.
So yes if you turned everything on (bake not broil) at the same time you would be pulling 11,100w or 46.25 amps but as the oven got up to temp and your gravy is simmering etc, that draw will go down.
BUT, you have to rate the inverter and battery for that crazy moment when "her indoors" cranks everything on.
Now if she is running the clothes dryer too and its getting warm in the house.....
Exactly why I went hog weasel on the size. Man that 12kW was heavy as hell for us.
 
Do you really need this means of disconnect?
Well I don't know any better to be honest.
Should I not have a disconnect?
Some times I like to charge the batteries via house power using a Signature Solar 18A power supply. I usually just connect it to one battery where it charges everything else connected to the bus bar. I do this with the inverter off but thought to have a disconnect to the inverter as well.
 
Yeah those 6000T/12000T are beast's.
Do your batteries have a breaker on the front, if so I wouldn't bother with a separate switch.
 
Does each of your batteries have a built in means of disconnect?
Well I don't know any better to be honest.
Should I not have a disconnect?
Not unless it serves a purpose.
If its redundant its just added resistance.
Would need to see the overall topology.
Some times I like to charge the batteries via house power using a Signature Solar 18A power supply.
Why not charge all the batteries at the same time with the all in one?
I usually just connect it to one battery where it charges everything else connected to the bus bar.
This should only need to be done when a battery is being put into service.
Just to get the voltage close enough to the other to not trip any BMS on over-current while the batteries converge.
I do this with the inverter off but thought to have a disconnect to the inverter as well.
I don't see the need.
 
Yeah those 6000T/12000T are beast's.
Do your batteries have a breaker on the front, if so I wouldn't bother with a separate switch.
They each have an on/off switch as well as a breaker. Very nice batteries and so is there charger.
 
Does each of your batteries have a built in means of disconnect?
They do, a breaker and on/off switch.
Not unless it serves a purpose.
If its redundant its just added resistance.
Agreed, I didn't like the idea anyways.
Why not charge all the batteries at the same time with the all in one?
They are all on the same bus bar so am I not doing so? They seem to read that way and end up perfectly equal according to their BMS displays.
 
We are in agreement.
The only time to charge batteries individually is when adding them to the system.
I'm glad that you brought up resistance introduced by components/joinery.
I like to have my positive and negative leads between battery bank and inverter to be the same lengths.
However is it wise to take into account the fuse holder as part of positive lead length?
For example, say I have an 18" negative lead and a 6" fuse holder, can I assume my positive lead can be 12"?
 
I'm glad that you brought up resistance introduced by components/joinery.
I like to have my positive and negative leads between battery bank and inverter to be the same lengths.
However is it wise to take into account the fuse holder as part of positive lead length?
For example, say I have an 18" negative lead and a 6" fuse holder, can I assume my positive lead can be 12"?
Lets see the whole topology.
Typically the inverter circuit wires don't have to be the same length.
 
I had forgotten to ask but what torque spec should I use for the DC cable to the fuse block and to the generator?
 
Back
Top