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200ah 1200w DIY Portable Solar Power Box

WyoSoular

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Joined
Mar 6, 2023
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17
Location
Wyoming
I’ve got this at about 85% complete. This is all installed inside a Dewalt Tough Chest 38 in. 63 Gal. Mobile Tool Box. I’m using a 12v 200ah Ampere Time LifePo4, 1200w Victron Phoenix Inverter, Renogy Rover 60amp MPPT, and a Victron BMV-712 shunt/monitor. There’s 2 low power quiet fans installed, 2 110v outlets with USB and GFCI(since no true ground so to speak),

This is meant to be a mobile job site power source along with a home backup. I didn’t want to rely on a gas based generator. The Rover can handle over 1000watts of solar panels so charging will be fast if sunny. Currently I’m using a small 20amp ac charger until I get the solar wiring part finished to the distribution box.

As tested I’m able to run a 115qt portable refrigerator for about 2 days give or take using the inverter. I’m going to test again running a straight 12v plug to the refrigerator and see if run time is better or worse.

I’m waiting on wire for the solar distribution box, a 12v/usb/rocker switch dist panel, and a top fan panel for better cooling. The fans will be direct off the battery for better efficiency. 2 fans on the side for intake air and the 2 on too for exhaust.

Many challenges along the way as this was the first time doing this type of electrical work. Found that wire sizing and connectors along with having good tools is a challenge and big pain when wrong. Both of the crimping tools I order have incorrectly sized die/jaws and did not fully crimp the copper lugs. The wire you order is also critical as you need to make sure what you order is flexible enough for a box like this and also the right rating. Another thing is the lug position when crimped is important as it has to already be the right orientation and rotation so to speak to align to the post. Otherwise it’s to hard to twist and maneuver the wires after the fact. This was the first time I’ve used so large gauge wire and only had experience with home electrical and Romeo type wire and connectors. Good learning all around with this project.
 

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Three MAJOR concerns.

1) Your Victron MPPT is black. It's supposed to be blue. :p
2) Those breakers are junk. Replace with reputable brand like BlueSeaSystems or Littlefuse or similar.
3) Do you have a pre-charge circuit? If not, can the battery handle the capacitor charge surge?
 
The mppt is a Renogy Rover not sure why you thought it was Victron?

I only have the one breaker showing and that’s just for the 120v a/c outlets. Not sure what would be wrong with it?

As far as I understand the pre charge wasn’t needed and no damage occurred from the capacitors charging. This being only 1200w and always connected it would also be a pain to pre charge all the time. The battery manufacturer does not specify or mention a need for one. Victron also doesn’t mention it for their Phoenix. I know this is a well discussed and disagreed upon topic as well.
 
Looks pretty darn good for a first build.
I really like the use of the grommet through the unistrut to run the romex.
Yes, planning your crimps with lug orientation requires some steps ahead thinks.
I agree with @sunshine_eggo that those DC breaker fuses should be replaced.
 
@sunshine_eggo - You have enlightened me! These are not AIC rated and have very little info at all on there rating other than the general rating. I looked at Blue Sea and I think the 285 would work it’s just a much smaller lug size and oddball configuration. Also expensive for two I need. Hopefully these hold up until o can replace them and then reconfigure some wires to fit them in.
 
Agree about changing out those car stereo circuit breakers.
Those set screws for the wire connections are really and crushed the wire and cause poor connection, similar set screws are use in the fuse holder.
BTW, I also have the Phoenix 1200VA/1000W 12V inverter, it does have good size capacitor banks inside and does make a good spark if you do not pre-charge the capacitor banks first.
 
@Bud Martin - since the system is always connected and I have the breakers and cutoff switch I have not seen any sparks or heard any noise when switching the disconnects or breakers. If there were sparks they must have been internal to the breaker or swtich.

I hate the screw type terminals but for some reason Renogy uses that and Victron has a crush jacket I’d call it not a screw but still not good like a lug is. Bad designs of the connections.
 
I am mostly ‘blue’ as well as Victron is quite common here. Also have an issue with their grub screw type connectors. Using decent crimp ferrules on the wire ends prevent splaying of the wire but with time the grub screws tend to loosen.
Also using the same Phoenix inverter without pre-charging and never had a BMS trip - you just hear that nice solid ‘clunk’ of transformer on start-up. Low freq inverter ? Maybe the inrush current is more gradual.
 
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I’ve got this at about 85% complete. This is all installed inside a Dewalt Tough Chest 38 in. 63 Gal. Mobile Tool Box. I’m using a 12v 200ah Ampere Time LifePo4, 1200w Victron Phoenix Inverter, Renogy Rover 60amp MPPT, and a Victron BMV-712 shunt/monitor. There’s 2 low power quiet fans installed, 2 110v outlets with USB and GFCI(since no true ground so to speak),

This is meant to be a mobile job site power source along with a home backup. I didn’t want to rely on a gas based generator. The Rover can handle over 1000watts of solar panels so charging will be fast if sunny. Currently I’m using a small 20amp ac charger until I get the solar wiring part finished to the distribution box.

As tested I’m able to run a 115qt portable refrigerator for about 2 days give or take using the inverter. I’m going to test again running a straight 12v plug to the refrigerator and see if run time is better or worse.

I’m waiting on wire for the solar distribution box, a 12v/usb/rocker switch dist panel, and a top fan panel for better cooling. The fans will be direct off the battery for better efficiency. 2 fans on the side for intake air and the 2 on too for exhaust.

Many challenges along the way as this was the first time doing this type of electrical work. Found that wire sizing and connectors along with having good tools is a challenge and big pain when wrong. Both of the crimping tools I order have incorrectly sized die/jaws and did not fully crimp the copper lugs. The wire you order is also critical as you need to make sure what you order is flexible enough for a box like this and also the right rating. Another thing is the lug position when crimped is important as it has to already be the right orientation and rotation so to speak to align to the post. Otherwise it’s to hard to twist and maneuver the wires after the fact. This was the first time I’ve used so large gauge wire and only had experience with home electrical and Romeo type wire and connectors. Good learning all around with this project.

Nice design.

Certainly a Victron MPPT Solar Charge Controller would be a good choice (tier1), but the Rover 60 MPPT SCC is now installed in the solar power box and should work good. My system has a couple of Renogy Rovers (40 & 100 amp). Although they are value/budget SCC's and not tier1 they work well, but there are some peculiarities or limitations to be aware of. Number 1 is to ignore the State of Charge indicator on the Rover as it is worthless. Since there is a Victron BMV-712 you are in good shape. My system has the same and find it works great.

A suggestion would be to click the link below and read this message and then read the entire thread. There is significant information on the Renogy Rover MPPT solar charge controller.
Hope it helps...

 
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Update: I replaced the questionable breakers with Gloso breakers that are similar to the Blue Sea Systems breakers and AIC rated. Currently testing my 12v outlet to a portable fridgeFreezer I tested earlier with the inverter. On battery it seems my run time slight more than 2 days give or take depending opening doors and what’s inside etc.. So on the inverter I wouldn’t lose much run time compared to running on battery.

I’ll update pictures once I install exhaust fan panel and solar cable entry box. Then it’s done other than adding a small 15amp dc breaker for the 12v outlet panel.
 
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