I live OFF Grid am Rural & Remote up near Algonquin Park, Ontario Canada.
24V/4000W system, original battery bank was 428AH Heavy Lead (214 Net AH), now backup with New Bank of 1190AH LFP 30.4kWh (LiFePO4).
I started with a 3000W inverter and within a year I upgraded to 4000W, which also meant attery cables from 2/0 to 4/0 which was another ouch. I do not use 240VAC and am wired for 120VAC. My Well Pump is also a GrundFos SQ-5 120VAC Softstart which reach 1100W @ Cutoff point of 52PSI. 260' deep to a 50 Gallon pressure tank then 75' to house and there is neer a noticeable pressure drop.
The general unwritten rule is to not draw more than 250A from a battery bank (excepting surge handling). Stackable inverters and such are another matter handled differently.
12V@250A=3000W (25A AC),
24V@250A=6000W (50A AC),
48V@250A=12,000W (100A AC)
-- for quick reference. The (50A AC) can be 120V/50A out to panel or 240V/25A split phase to panel.
In simple terms. -- AC 120V/15A=1800W, 240V/15A=3600W uncorrected
? 250A. Because it's recommended to be the MAX draw limit for a standard"single" system. Single, meaning non-stacked inverters and similar.
! Inverter Wattage has to support the watts required plus surge capacity. Should never be run at the limit for an extended period of time (that's undersized).
My 24V system, uses a Samlex EVO-4024 4000W Pure Sine Low Frequency inverter that can handle 12,000W surge.
As I sit here writing this I am using 10.2A, turn on coffee maker add 50A for 6 minutes while brewing (no warmer has thermal carafe). Turn on Microware (1200W Panasonic Inverter type) and there's 72A. IF I was running 12V that would be Double the amps drawn, if 48V then it would be Half the amps drawn. I turn on my compressor and get a surge of 200A and then 75A while running (2.5HP, 20gal).
Much more information & details with links to items and devices etc on the "About my System" link at the top of my signature. I'm sure several of your pending questions would be answered there and may create new questions.
HINDSIGHT NOTE:
Looking back, I should have chosen 240VAC as opposed to only 120VAC. Even though I have no "need" for 240V it would have provided more options & flexibility. Notably things like EV Charging (and with the new models being V2G (Vehicle to Grid) / V2H (Vehicle to home) so that could be leveraged for house power as well. What is "today" is evolving for tomorrow so best to be prepared. Even wired for 240VAC to panels, you still get the 120VAC legs so no loss and NOW it's not really more expensive then 120V Only. When I started 240V Inverters cost more than just 120V output. Even so, I wired everything so it can handle 240VAC/200A including the run from Powerhouse to house which is wired with one #6/3 & one #8/3 (I got one heck of a deal on the wire so I could not refuse).
Note that I designed & built my home which is hyper-efficient and very energy frugal. In the "About my System" page, there is a blue spoiler with more detail.
First Rule of Offgridding, conservation is far cheaper than generation & storage.
A well insulated home designed to take advantage of the environment it's in, can work to save costs on heating & cooling while making it far more liveable. IE: Yesterday it was 95F in the shade, with 65% Humidity so "ugh" but in my home was 76F and I no longer own an AC - gave it away a few years ago. In Winter when it's -22F outside my heating system only runs two cycles of 2 hours each to maintain the house at 77F.
The tricks are a Cool Roof system that uses passive convective venting which is a thermal break between roof "skin" and physical roof shell, preventing heat transfer in/out for the roof. The "RainScreen" Siding also provides a Thermal Break between the siding & house shell, that also uses passive convective airflow, preventing ANY dead airspaces. The last trick which is the key, an insulated FPSF Foundation (frost-protected slab foundation) which prevents the slab from losing its heat in winter but also
prevents heat gain from "the soil" thereby remaining as the Heat Sink & regulator for the house. During summer my slab remains at a constant 62.6F which keeps the house cooler.
Sea-cans are nefarious for heating & cooling but with external insulation & a rains-screen siding system plus a proper roof to prevent direct sun exposure to reflect & deflect the heat they can work really well. The trick is to prevent the metal from having direct solar exposure and preventing it from heating up.
Some quick & dirty info for you:
53° = 9:12 Pitch which is the nominal angle for year round generation.
Solar Reflectivity, Emissivity, and SRI: (Chart from Tin Roofing manufacturers)
The Highest SRI reflects/deflects solar input. "Natural White" being the most effective, additionally, using a Natural White background in combination with Bi-Facial Panels mounted properly above can leverage maximum production capacity for the space available. "Pure White reflects the "Full Spectrum" which is the best.
Simple cool-roof info from a "Dead Site" (owner fell victim to Covid)
Attached info as PDF.
Hope it helps, Good Luck.
Steve