diy solar

diy solar

24V for vehicle specific systems (cheaper/more efficient(?), but how much)

High frequency inverters typically are floating neutral and cannot be bonded or bad things will happen. Instead of 120V line-ground you will have 60V line-ground and 60V neutral-ground. My UPS has the neutral bonded in my breaker panel.
 
Last edited:
High frequency inverters typically are floating neutral and cannot be bonded or bad things will happen. Instead of 120V line-ground you will have 60V line-ground and 60V neutral-ground. My UPS has the neutral bonded in my breaker panel.

Makes note to check my generator when the weather improves.
 
High frequency inverters typically are floating neutral and cannot be bonded or bad things will happen. Instead of 120V line-ground you will have 60V line-ground and 60V neutral-ground. My UPS has the neutral bonded in my breaker panel.

Ah well that went right over my head. Just another benchmark of something I need to understand before I proceed too far I guess :)

I did have a poke around ebay at some Outback and Samlex LF inverters in the 2000W range, and indeed, for equivalent specs on paper, it looks like about a 5x premium over your consumer-grade HF pure sine. They also seem to necessarily include AC charging, which would be redundant in the system I'm imagining, but maybe that's just inherent to their design.

Thanks for pointing out potential scavenging opportunities - it's interesting you pointed to a UPS in particular. I'm still very limited in my knowledge of electrical/electronics, so I'm looking for free junk to tinker with to get a handle on things. I recently pulled a little UPS out of the basement of what was formerly (like 15 or 20 years ago) a small local PC/electronics shop. It looks maybe big enough to keep one or two CPUs running for an hour or so in a blackout. I figured it would give me a chance to play with small versions of the components I would be using for my mobile power application.

Maybe you can answer a question I have about it. When I pulled it open, it was running off of two 6V 12Ah sealed lead-acid batteries in series. They were obviously well past their usable service life, both reading 1.xxV. I was wondering if I could swap in another 12V SLA battery I have out of a jump-starter pack that still has a bit of life left, just to see if I can get it operating normally and experiment with capacity tests and stuff. Like I said, I'm pretty much starting from scratch, no bench-top power supply or anything. I need to hold off at least a couple more months to wrap up other projects before I can make this hobby the money-sink-du-jour. :)

What's weird about the UPS is that when it's powered, I'm reading the voltage at the battery leads at around 18.5V, which seems way high for charging a 12V lead-acid bank. I can't tell if that's a fault in the UPS, or if there's some good reason for that. I'd rather not have my first experiment vent a bunch of hydrogen into the basement and trash the only 12V battery I have on hand.
 
Thanks for pointing out potential scavenging opportunities - it's interesting you pointed to a UPS in particular. I'm still very limited in my knowledge of electrical/electronics, so I'm looking for free junk to tinker with to get a handle on things. I recently pulled a little UPS out of the basement of what was formerly (like 15 or 20 years ago) a small local PC/electronics shop. It looks maybe big enough to keep one or two CPUs running for an hour or so in a blackout. I figured it would give me a chance to play with small versions of the components I would be using for my mobile power application.
Totally agree, and I did the same learning process using a 12V Belkin UPS and 35ah SLA battery. Destroy the cheap stuff first: knowledge gained = equipment ruined.

No idea about the high charging volts. My Belkin maintains the battery around 13.5v. Could be unloaded voltage due to the trashed battery. If the replacement battery is larger capacity than the original battery you "should" be fine but monitor carefully.

If you want to view a cheap consumer grade UPS-to-inverter conversion in gory detail watch the YouTube series by knurlgnar24
 
Last edited:
...When I pulled it open, it was running off of two 6V 12Ah sealed lead-acid batteries in series. They were obviously well past their usable service life, both reading 1.xxV. I was wondering if I could swap in another 12V SLA battery...
I am powering my used 48V UPS from my used electric golf cart with 6x @ 8v used FLA batteries. So you should be good.

batteries.jpg
 
slightly off topic..... in my situation have existing 12v wiring (former ambulance) as power feed to 12v power outlets. My refrigerator is 12 to 24v power.

If my understand is right 24v requires lower guage wire than 12v.... so can I utilize a section of the former 12v wiring as 24v feed to this refrigerator? (plan to have 24v house battery banks. Truck uses 24v alternator (mostly 24v that is / its complicated)
I am considering making this a mobile power station...
It's got room for panels, batteries, and equipment...
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20200228-151746_Samsung Internet.jpg
    Screenshot_20200228-151746_Samsung Internet.jpg
    40.8 KB · Views: 4
Now you need a honking big inverter in the golf cart, and you've got a mobile solar generator...
UPS is a honking 90 pound inverter, should be able to run my house for 8+ hours. Tested at 5+ hours before ran out of attention span, and wanted to save what is left of my batteries. And sanity.

Already bought four 100W panels and SCC, and am adding to the cart roof. Also playing with a small wind turbine, I am guaranteed to have wind in a hurricane.
 
Last edited:
UPS is a honking 90 pound inverter, should be able to run my house for 8+ hours. Tested at 5+ hours before ran out of attention span, and wanted to save what is left of my batteries. And sanity.

Already bought four 100W panels and SCC, and am adding to the cart roof. Also playing with a small wind turbine, I am guaranteed to have wind in a hurricane.
Heh... I use Delmar lightbulbs on jobs.
 
UPS is a honking 90 pound inverter, should be able to run my house for 8+ hours. Tested at 5+ hours before ran out of attention span, and wanted to save what is left of my batteries. And sanity.

Already bought four 100W panels and SCC, and am adding to the cart roof. Also playing with a small wind turbine, I am guaranteed to have wind in a hurricane.
Is the ups in the cart? I thought it was in your house, and you hook the cart to it.
 
Is the ups in the cart? I thought it was in your house, and you hook the cart to it.
UPS is relatively portable (other than weighing 90+ pounds). Anderson plugs connect to the cart batteries. Can roll around the garage on casters and connect to dual 20A cables with suicide adapter plugs from my breaker panel, or lift onto the cart and drive anywhere power is needed.

I was wondering why the housing was so beat up. Attempted to carry to my breaker panel and it slipped right out of my sweaty hands and crashed onto the floor. That's why it's now on casters. And yes it's upside down, wanted the heavy transformers low to prevent tipping.

UPS.jpg
 
Last edited:
Just giving my take on the original question. I went back and forth on the math for my current build and decided 24v with a couple inexpensive 12v converters was a better option for one main reason: Allowed me to use the MPP Solar LV2424 that Will reviewed. Simplifies everything in the system. Also allowed me to use a lot of the current 12v power lines, but at twice the power transmission. Like another person posted, it also made the battery system simpler. A 200AH 8S system seems a lot simpler to maintain than 2 4S systems in parallel
 
Back
Top