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You would want 120V for typical loads.
Heating loads and larger motors can be 240V (of 120/240V split-phase) or 208 (of 120/208Y.)
If you buy three inverters then you can have the 3-phase, good for some shop tools.
I think you can generate 3-phase from two inverters which are 120 degrees apart, by using transformers. But a third inverter may cost less.

Or maybe running them with VFD is better. You get variable speed and soft start.
But cheap VFD, due to diode/capacitor front end, has bad power factor and creates harmonics. That upsets some of my inverters (AC coupled Sunny Boy) but hasn't been a problem for Sunny Island battery inverters.

You still have to convert to 120v for the other stuff in the house right? Do you mean it would be cheaper/efficient to just run 240v from the start and then transform it down to what's needed?

If you've got a transformer, this would let all watts of your 240V inverter supply single-phase 120V. Compare to two stacked inverters, each phase gets the power of just one inverter. Transformers do have a standby load. For instance, here are no-load voltage and current traces for a 9kVA toroid transformer. With 118Vrms applied it carried 0.67Arms, for 67W reactive power. That's mostly energy stored in the inductance (out of phase current), and how much is recovered by the inverter vs. dissipated somewhere would make a big difference in battery life. I'll have to check that some day, wanted to use this transformer to let slave inverters sleep, only operate master, to save power under low load.

Toroid 9kVA 120vrms 050822.jpg

Connect 240VAC to your 120VAC vacuum cleaner and see how much it likes it ?

It should really suck!

(universal motor spins faster with more voltage. Maybe not for long? Low-rider guys would put 72V into 12V hydraulic pumps.)
I think I did plug a floor sander into repair shop test outlet while it was set to 240V, and it smoked from the get-go. So there are limits.
 
Do the same with L1 and L2 of split phase and report back
Why? I know better than that.

I understand now though, who you responded to said dryer or EV and you're right, to those it wouldn't matter. I saw the word "appliances" and was thinking of 120VAC appliances.
 
All dryers usually come with schematics stored behind the control panel. Guess I'm showing my age when white goods had a control panel. I think by law they have to have them somewhere. At one time you can connect either L1 or L2 to neutral and run on 120V, just way longer. Ours burnt out and I put a universal coil in and it took way too long for the timer. Instead of opening the case, I put an alternating relay on the timer motor and that made the dryer run twice as long. Got another dryer a few months after that.
 
All dryers usually come with schematics stored behind the control panel. Guess I'm showing my age when white goods had a control panel. I think by law they have to have them somewhere. At one time you can connect either L1 or L2 to neutral and run on 120V, just way longer. Ours burnt out and I put a universal coil in and it took way too long for the timer. Instead of opening the case, I put an alternating relay on the timer motor and that made the dryer run twice as long. Got another dryer a few months after that.
My dryer still does. Because it's as old as I am. I've kept it running for a very long time. It was given to me by my grandmother, after she replaced it with a new one. As long as I can find or fabricate parts, I'll never get a new one. (I've had it for 30 years. Not sure how old it was when I got it)
 
My dryer still does. Because it's as old as I am. I've kept it running for a very long time. It was given to me by my grandmother, after she replaced it with a new one. As long as I can find or fabricate parts, I'll never get a new one. (I've had it for 30 years. Not sure how old it was when I got it)
What's the color of that old antique....harvest gold or avocado green? Wish we made stuff like that here again.
 
I got this Maytag Neptune dryer over 20 years ago for $35, it sounded like a freight train. The blower fan was plastic and had rounded out the D shaft insert. That tore up the entire outside rim of the fan with just blades floating in the air. Hose clamp and some miracle glue fixed the shaft. I notched all the dan blades and wrapped a #14 coper wire around it and soldered it. Seems like I had to fix the heater element too. With fan not working element opened and just shortened it a little. Never a problem since.

Oops, The drum rollers went bad. I just cut a hole in the side and every year when it squeaks, I give it a shot of oil. Sintered bearings will never accept oil again.
 
I miss the old school washers that had the agitator in them...these new high efficiency ones suck and do not clean the clothes. I bought a new LG dryer and washer a few years ago and they both suck balls. If you have to run the water level all the way to the top and or wash twice is it really efficient? When I move again I'll look for a old one or buy a speed queen.
 
I feel the same way about low flow toilets.
Having to flush 3 times, isn't saving any water.
 
American Standard Champion. One flush always works on it. I adjusted the flapper so it only does 1 full tank flush. Never clogs, never needs more than 1 flush.

Our front loader does a surprisingly good job washing clothes. The dryer doesn't dry well but it is old-ish and tired I think.
 
Why? I know better than that.

I understand now though, who you responded to said dryer or EV and you're right, to those it wouldn't matter. I saw the word "appliances" and was thinking of 120VAC appliances.

Selection of breakers will also matter, if using 240V single phase. Typical 120/240V 2-pole breakers are good for 120V per pole. Only certain models are good for 240V (or 277V) across one pole.

I mostly have older appliances. Got a couple front-loader Miele, thinking they would be better than other brands, but have bitten the dust. I've overhauled or otherwise fixed a few, including pulling apart a top-loader (but even with new seals it still leaked.)
 

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