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48v inverter

Kep

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Sep 24, 2019
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Just looking for a bit of feedback on what inverter would be a good choice for a lithium-ion 48v DC system.
I want 2000 to 2500 watt unit that will start a 2000 watt microwave and run 1500+ watt cooking appliances.
I was considering a Cotec SD2500-148 GFCI but the low voltage cutoff is 40v and a lithium battery should be about about 37 volts

The Aims and similar inverters are just not able to produce their rated capacity and have no surge watts beyond 48ms.
So for a 2000 watt load I would need their 4000-6000 watt unit
I would go with the Victron energy but it requires me to get a 3000 watt unit with a charger and I already have a charger. It also costs $1800 too.
 
Could adding one more pack to your series increase your lower end voltage without going over on top end specs. So do 15s instead of 14s
Adding one more battery will be too high. Remember I already have a 15 amp 58v charger. I'm at 58.1v at full charge now and 8.2v more for another battery would put me at 66.3 So that won't work.
Note: Victron Energy 3000 watt 48v inverters chargers are 38 - 66v. I'm just wanting an inverter that will work as I don't need another charger
 
Adding one more battery will be too high. Remember I already have a 15 amp 58v charger. I'm at 58.1v at full charge now and 8.2v more for another battery would put me at 66.3 So that won't work.
Note Victron Energy 3000 watt 48v inverters are 38 - 66v.
One pack is 8.2 volts what kind of batteries are you using?
 
Nissan Leaf cells and they are actually 8.3 volts but I use a BMS set to a conservative 8.25 and a 58v charger gets it really close.

I'm currently using them in my RV to test for use in my Home system. For when I replace the batteries.

I plan to do something like this...
 
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Just to to clarify I believe they’re actually 3,65 or 3.75 in a 2s2p making for a 8.3 voltage or 8.5 depending which generation it is.

Two different discussions going on in the neighborhood related to your questions

This discussion centered around a much smaller microwave and having difficult T making it work so you might wanna ditch your big one Or be considering a larger inverter

Talk about ev modules fitting inverters...
 
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Yes I'm aware of that and plan to either get a very large low quality inverter (48v 6000watt) or a quality one Like Victron Energy. They only have two that are 48v that could be used with a Lithium battery system. One is a 48v 1200 watt inverter only at $402.00 and the other is a 48v 3000watt inverter charger at $1855.00.

Yes they are Gen 2 at 8.4v but they will last longer and be safer if held to 8.25v or less. Works out to be just under 58v. The low cut point is actually said to be 36v but better life can be had if held at or a little above 38v.
 
This guy keeps his at 4.09v with his Btrium BMS rather than 4.2v but with his bank he would likely never notice the reduced capacity.

 
Yes I'm aware of that and plan to either get a very large low quality inverter (48v 6000watt) or a quality one Like Victron Energy. They only have two that are 48v that could be used with a Lithium battery system. One is a 48v 1200 watt inverter only at $402.00 and the other is a 48v 3000watt inverter charger at $1855.00.

Yes they are Gen 2 at 8.4v but they will last longer and be safer if held to 8.25v or less. Works out to be just under 58v. The low cut point is actually said to be 36v but better life can be had if held at or a little above 38v.
Just to understand, 38v for battery meaning...5.5 per module or 2.7 per cell? If so, That is lower than what most are doing? If it was a type and meant 3.8v, that is quite high...leaving a fair bit of pixies in the pouch.
 
I set it up to shut down the entire battery at 38v and release at 41v so yes 5.42v and about 2.7v in theory but not in reality. However if any one cell drops below 2.9v it cuts that cell off and comes back on at 3.1v with a delay. So this is protected from under voltage in two ways as a safety stop. It is also protected from over voltage in the same way. Understand that under load it needs to be safe at the cell level and the overall voltage level. So the picture is a bit of a checks and balance as each cell is individually monitored and controlled too. So if one cell cuts off and the banks drops to 38v the BMS will kill the entire battery regardless of cell voltage until the bank bounces back to 41v. The over voltage is done much the same way, both cell level and pack level.

I hope this makes sense as it is redundancy protection that protects both at the cell level and the battery bank level.
 
Back to the inverter question... Anyone have suggestions for a quality inverter.

For my 48 Volt I am going with these Magnum Energy components:

48 Volt 4,400 Watt Magnum Inverter (Model: MS4448PAE)

100 Amp Magnum Charge Controller (Model: PT-100)

I've been getting quotes for the Inverter for around $1,800 and $900 for the charge controller.

There are a few great YouTube channels with great videos on the Magnum Energy inverters.

Here are some:




 
For my 48 Volt I am going with these Magnum Energy components:

48 Volt 4,400 Watt Magnum Inverter (Model: MS4448PAE)

100 Amp Magnum Charge Controller (Model: PT-100)

I've been getting quotes for the Inverter for around $1,800 and $900 for the charge controller.

There are a few great YouTube channels with great videos on the Magnum Energy inverters.

Same issue... It has a charger built in that I don't need and it is in the $1800 range. It is however a quality component made for mobile applications.

I'm using outback solar for my home but Magnum was my second choice. I like all of them but I can't get what I want from any of the three manufacturers.

Remember I only need it for camping while using cooking appliances, internet, LCD TV and my 30 amp 48v dc to 12v dc converter loads. I have only one 48v 66ah battery bank so 4400 watts would be overkill. With that inverter I could run my AC and microwave at the same time for like 10 minutes on my batteries LOL. For the record I don't plan to run my AC off battery power. I only have 400 watts of solar too.
 
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Same issue... It has a charger built in that I don't need...
What do you mean when you say it has a charger built in? It doesn't have a built-in charger. Hence the reason why will pair it with a Magnum PT-100 charger or you can pair it with an Outback or MidNite charger.
 
What do you mean when you say it had a charger built in?
?? Many inverters have built in chargers; some have ATSes built in too.

The MSPAE-4448 has a built in charger and ATS; see:

CHARGER SPECIFICATIONS
  • Continuous output at 25° C 60 ADC
  • Charger efficiency 85%
  • Power factor > .95
  • Input current at rated output (AC amps) 17.5 AAC per leg at 120/240 VAC split phase

Automatic Transfer Relay
Inverter and Standby mode depending on availability of AC input power. If AC is present, the unit will be a battery charger and pass power through the inverter. When the AC goes away, the unit becomes an inverter.
 
What do you mean when you say it has a charger built in? It doesn't have a built-in charger. Hence the reason why will pair it with a Magnum PT-100 charger or you can pair it with an Outback or MidNite charger.
It has a built in 60 amp ac to dc charger not a MPPT solar charge controller.
 
Well I'm considering this MPP Solar unit but just can't pull the trigger. MPP LV5048 Hybrid.
Will says it is a good unit and programmible for Lithium batteries... so I'm considering a change in direction.


I already have a 48v charger and a MPPT 150v 35amp programmable solar charge controller so I'm really hesitant.
 
Found this one (3000 watt 48v Sigineer PSI3048NC) and if it works properly it is exactly what I'm looking for.
Anyone know what their saying by stating that this unit it is "Transformless"?
I Think it means they use a bank of capacitors instead of large transformers.
It does say it has a 0.5sec surge capacity.

 
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