50kAIC class t fuse

[LakeHouse]

If you want to bring things together and run from one bus bar to the other with a shunt between you need 500amp wire

There is an alternative: bolt the shunt directly to both bus bars.
It’s exactly what the Victron Lynx Shunt (and power in, etc.) is intended to do. No big wires required, the whole thing is bolted bus bar connections.

 

[robbob2112]

There is an alternative: bolt the shunt directly to both bus bars.
It’s exactly what the Victron Lynx Shunt (and power in, etc.) is intended to do. No big wires required, the whole thing is bolted bus bar connections.

I can see that. I would do a contactor bolted to the bus bar, then a shunt, the a smaller bus bar, then the cables to the inverter.

They other possibility would be 6 contactors, one per battery all tied to the same stop button.

I still would keep all the class T fuses.

 

[robbob2112]

A more complete version with switch and contactor and shunt all bolted together

The other option would be to use a 500a or 600a breaker instead of a similar sized contactor - but in that case you have to reach into wherever it is installed to turn it on and off verse being able to just mount a switch anywhere and feed the contactor control 12v. Contactor would be a NO style so when you have no power to the control it is de-energized.

 

[ricardocello]

are you going to fuse the 12v contactor control line, or put a fuse at the 12v battery before the switch?

 

[robbob2112]

are you going to fuse the 12v contactor control line, or put a fuse at the 12v battery before the switch?

Forgot that, it only would need to be a 5 amp inline fuse since the contactor control is in the neighborhood of 300~600ma, depends on the contactor.

Note - the contactor can also run off the 24v battery bus bars, but I think it is better to have the control completly isolated in case something bad happens. It is possible to run a dc-dc charger to keep the 12v battery topped up and also still isolated. And the 12v can easily be a lfp battery or as small as a motorcycle battery, just needs to have enough power to keep the contactor energized when using the main battery.

And - note - the drawing is just a suggestion to the op of something that would work and be safely fused using the equipment he has.

A little back of the napkin figuring the bus bars involved should be 2" wide and 1/2 thick pure copper 110 annealed.

pre made punched and coated

https://monti-inc.com/services/copper-machining-fabrication/bus-bar/

or just bare 110 copper - $55 for 12"

I've used these before

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Attached the drawio file as well.